Ahh gotcha

 

Just get the racer reroute man.

On a serious note, I think I have an extra. If I can find it, what's it worth to you?

 

Wonder if a higher count crank wheel will help with that start. You have the stock one, right?

 

*Cough*

 

I have the M-Tuned reroute, and have seen the "Racer" reroute on another car. When looking at the two together, one looks well made, the other looks like it was made by banging stone against metal in Syria. Not saying which is which

 

Just got an email from FM that they are back in stock
But if you have one and wanna get rid of it please LMK, maybe we can work something out.
Probably. And yes I have the stock one.
I feel like the car should start with the stock wheel just like OEM. I see no reason why it couldn't.

I think I've made a bit more progress on it though. At least it seems like it. Messing with cranking idle valve settings now.

Its really not bad, just not perfect. I bet most people wouldn't even mind, but it bothers me haha
classy


Anyways, I've pretty much realized that nothing I do gets rid of the little rich dip on throttle closing. Nothing. At all. I have logs, will post when I get home. I've tried every single thing under the sun. Maybe I'm overthinking this and it's supposed to do that? After all, it's just reacting to throttle closing by pulling fuel, it can't pull fuel before the throttle is already closed. I dunno. It doesn't affect driveability at all, and really doesn't affect anythying. If I didn't have the wideband I wouldn't even be able to tell. I'm gonna table that one for now, and focus on something else:

VVT

I notice vvt angle % goes bananas past 4k rpm. I've tried a bunch of settings for PID on the way to work, and it was completely unpredictable, working nice and smooth and good, then jerky and wobbly, then smooth, then......you get the idea. Car still drives fine, everything is perfect, except that VVT angle needle. Not sure if faulty reading or what. Will be doing some more VVT tuning research, even though I've read and re-read the common VVT tuning discussions/threads on here enough times that I actually have them memorized.

 

For what it's worth I have a 4t wheel and I have the same kind of dip-in when I release the throttle as well. My starts are good by my standards, maybe a bit long compared to my stock Civic. Right now, the car has been sitting for exactly 1 week with no driving. I guarantee when I go over there to take it out for a ride today, if I let the fuel pump fully prime and then crank, it will be a sub 5 second start. Before I got tuned, I would be lucky if priming it twice would help it start, and after that it would idle all over the place until it came out of enrichment.

 

HAHAHA see that's what I'm talking about: you, and most others, say their startup is "good". Then you define that by saying "sub 5 second".

Mine has pretty much always been sub 5 second. I consider that "ok". Not good.

I'm trying to make it 2 seconds or less, like OEM

My car right now probably runs amazing by most people's standards.

 

Heh. Next time I'm in Sac I'll buy you lunch and you can show me how to fix my starting. 2 seconds would be amazing. Not that mine is "bad" but better is always better.

 

I just did a count in my head and no way it takes 5 lol. I'll time it when I go over there later. Then we can have a contest about who's thing is SMALLER!

 

I think mine starts in less than a second, but i'm not sure how relevant my tune is to yours. I have it uploaded in my build thread if you want to take a gander.

 

OK, finally attaching the logs and screen shots of what I'm dealing with in regards to the throttle lift afr dip, and the stupid vvt random issues.

I'm almost thinking the vvt thing is a bad cam sensor. Again (still haven't swapped it out with another one). I just can't imagine the cam physically being able to advance and retard so fast and hard while in steady state cruise

uploaded to this post:

HERE

 

I checked mine and after the priming was complete, I had 3 seconds of cranking before a nice solid start, not cold out, about 65* but been sitting a week.

This was followed by about 3 seconds of clacking of the pistons before quieting down significantly to a quieter clack that lasts about 1-2 minutes. I have 83.5mm Wiseco 8.6 pistons with .004 p2w, Rod and Main bearings .002 via plastigauge (just throwing this out there)

Hot re-starts are easily under 2 seconds, on par with my civic.

 

Posting Concealers startup related stuff here for my own records:



I'll have to reference and compare tomorrow

 

I think OEM they have extra maps and it starts the car without full sync as it can sync after it starts. With MS that doesn't happen (as far as I know). I have the FM 36-2 wheel and starts pretty darn quick; we are talking sub 2 second. Way faster than the CAS ever did.

 

This thing is running E85, right?

 

Hmm that's very interesting, and makes sense, but wouldn't that mean that no miata running megasquirt on the stock trigger system would be able to start like OEM? I'm not sure that's the case, but who knows. Everyone's interpretation of "starts great" seems to be different.

Nope, pump gas. Which is why I'm a bit stumped, since it should start perfect.

 

Mine starts fast, def less than 2 seconds. It did start faster and smoother with either the 36-2 wheel or sequential COPs.

 

I'm sure there's an option somewhere to start in batch fire mode.

http://www.msextra.com/doc/pdf/Megas...erence-1.3.pdf

page 148

That supposedly helps with quick starts as there's no wait for a sync, and fuel is added to the cylinders quicker.

 

Thanks, I'll read up on it.

Dimitris - is yours using the same startup values as the base map you provided?

This morning it seemed to start fairly decent. Around 2 seconds or so.