hustler's "driver shame" thread
#261
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Tim you make that look easy! All I need is a bunch of pipe, a head flange, and I already have my $9.99 HF angle grinder, and $80 flux core MiG welder. So I'm good to go, right? Did I miss somewhere that explains why you're using double slip joints? The whole downpipe looks much more complicated than Sav's, was he using a v-band attachment opposed to your springs?
I'm using double slips so:
*I can ship it in a real-world box
*It be easier to fit cars besides my own
*looks cool
*works a lot better than single slips
I added 12" of straight after the flex cause I didn't know where Trey's cat would be, he or sprayed will cut and make it work I'm sure. On my car, 9" would be about right to get into my cat which is towards the back of the OEM heat shielding for the cat.
Yours!
#264
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Everything I use makes a shitton of noise, mostly because it's cheap stuff, and yeah cheap stuff makes a lot of noise (air compressor, chop saw, die grinder, bench and angle grinders, etc). I wear ear plugs and an expensive dust mask.
#268
Explain the double slip joint? How much tension is on the springs? Any fear of heat cycling the spring out of them?
I HATE the way begi joins the to sections of my down pipe using a nut/bolt that is near impossible to tighten because of the location and that it is nearly impossible to put a wrench or socket on it. I wonder if a spring wouldn't work in my situation?
Very nice work indeed!
I HATE the way begi joins the to sections of my down pipe using a nut/bolt that is near impossible to tighten because of the location and that it is nearly impossible to put a wrench or socket on it. I wonder if a spring wouldn't work in my situation?
Very nice work indeed!
#269
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Explain the double slip joint? How much tension is on the springs? Any fear of heat cycling the spring out of them?
I HATE the way begi joins the to sections of my down pipe using a nut/bolt that is near impossible to tighten because of the location and that it is nearly impossible to put a wrench or socket on it. I wonder if a spring wouldn't work in my situation?
Very nice work indeed!
I HATE the way begi joins the to sections of my down pipe using a nut/bolt that is near impossible to tighten because of the location and that it is nearly impossible to put a wrench or socket on it. I wonder if a spring wouldn't work in my situation?
Very nice work indeed!
There is not much tension on the springs, they are real simple to install. I have the proper preload on them. No fear of heat cycling, they shouldn't get that hot way down on the downpipe, with only a very very small contact area with an already cool downpipe, and with a lot of air circling.
I think the springs are a better idea than the long bolt BEGI uses, which is why I used them. I don't know off hand the distance between the bolt holes on BEGI's downpipe so I don't know if the springs as-is will work for you.
#270
I think the springs are a better idea than the long bolt BEGI uses, which is why I used them. I don't know off hand the distance between the bolt holes on BEGI's downpipe so I don't know if the springs as-is will work for you.
Jay
#271
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From the look of things, the begi distance is greater. I've got to take everything apart in a little while, have issues with alignment (which was no big deal until I put in the 3" exhaust) so I might have a go at replacing the bolt with a spring. Although I imagine that two springs might be necessary.
Jay
Jay
#272
In a single slip joint the gases only have to force their way between two layers of metal...a pretty easy task for hot, pressurized gases, but normally not an issue. Additionally the smaller of the two diameters is usually downstream, which means the flow is going towards the gap it would leak through.
With a double slip joint the gases would have to enter the gap, between the first two layers of metal, go completely around the middle layer (downstream pipe), which means turning around down there, and force it's way back between two more layers.
This is nearly impossible since any gas that does get between the first two layers pressurizes the middle pipe, making the seal between it an the outermost layer more effective. Also, in contrast to most single slips, the gap is pointed downstream, in the direction of flow.
With a double slip joint the gases would have to enter the gap, between the first two layers of metal, go completely around the middle layer (downstream pipe), which means turning around down there, and force it's way back between two more layers.
This is nearly impossible since any gas that does get between the first two layers pressurizes the middle pipe, making the seal between it an the outermost layer more effective. Also, in contrast to most single slips, the gap is pointed downstream, in the direction of flow.
#277
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does anyone know which hole to plug on the tial wastegate? Do I have it hooked-up correctly in that pic where the side port is used, and the other side-port is plugged? The documentation with the tial gate doesn't discuss this at all.
there are still 2 ports not described on this diagram.
there are still 2 ports not described on this diagram.
Last edited by hustler; 09-13-2009 at 12:49 PM.
#278
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There's at least a half dozen different ways to hook it up, what is correct depends on your EBC and what you prefer. If you had a single port internal gate setup, and have your ebc set that 0%duty cycle = WG spring pressure, 100% DC = max boost, You'd hook it up pretending one of the lower holes is your single port on your old setup. plug the other lower hole. Make sure the upper holes arent plugged or drill a little vent hole in it.
If you want to get fancy and want better control (supposedly), do it like the tial diagram. BUT i'm pretty sure that way 0 DC means the top gets the same signal as the bottom and you have max boost, not WG spring pressure. (this all also depends on which ports you use on your boost control solenoid) The more you vent the top signal, the less pressure "helping" the spring, so the closer to spring pressure you get.
The AEM manual has a much better generic explanation but that obviously doesn't help you much w/o downloading the entire file.
If you want to get fancy and want better control (supposedly), do it like the tial diagram. BUT i'm pretty sure that way 0 DC means the top gets the same signal as the bottom and you have max boost, not WG spring pressure. (this all also depends on which ports you use on your boost control solenoid) The more you vent the top signal, the less pressure "helping" the spring, so the closer to spring pressure you get.
The AEM manual has a much better generic explanation but that obviously doesn't help you much w/o downloading the entire file.