hustler

iTrader: (6)

Ok, help me make decisions.

I think part of the burnt valve problem could have been from wet-out. Should I consider MS2 with sequential fuel? I know it's a lot of wiring and I'll have to connect a hall sensor and mod the CAS for the CMP, but it may be worth it.

Water injection. Why should I not add a 1GPH nozzle to this car only for the track, without special tuning dependent upon water?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

why do you have to do all that?

miata2fast

iTrader: (2)

I thought you had a stock cam. I wish you would consider using your stock springs, and adding shim under buckets.

Stiffer springs will do one thing for you....Rob horsepower. It is only really important if you are turning the motor harder, and a necessity when using more camshaft.

Shim under buckets will do two things for you. It will give you a tad more power, and it will also act like having a stiffer spring with the stock valvetrain. The lighter valvetrain will make your stock springs capable of closing more effectively at high rpms.

It works. Please tell me you will consider it.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Apparently its common for wet-out/fuel dripping onto the intake valve to cause elevated valve temps. Either the valves bent or burnt, I'll know with certainty soon.
I have a stock cam. I'm going to the stiffer spring for a few reasons, backpressure on on the hot-side, boost on the other side, and bumpy tracks. My machinist said that its possible for bumps or curbs to cause the valve to open or float. I know this sounds strange, but this guy builds about 25% of the SM motors in the country and does ~3 per week.

The real reason I'm getting new springs is age. These springs had 75k miles on them before I built the engine, then I did almost 100 hours of track time on them, and 25k miles. I don't care about the HP loss, I care about the reliability.

wildo

iTrader: (1)

I used -6 AN braided line and fittings for my fuel lines. If I had to do it again, I would probably stick with the kevlar covered lines, which is what I used for all of my oil lines. Kevlar is so much easier to work with, the SS lines can be a total bitch to work with. The kevlar is also a bit lighter and not as flashy, especially if you use the silver/black fittings instead of the traditional red/blue fittings.

You need a "tube fitting adapter" to convert the hard lines to AN lines. I believe the tubes are 5/16", but they could be 3/8".
Earl's Performance -6 AN (Male) to 5/16" Tube Adapter Fitting
Earl's Performance -6 AN (Male) to 3/8" Tube Adapter Fitting

The hard lines in the car are flared. If you decide to use these adapters, you'll want to cut off the flare and make sure you have a nice, straight bit of tube to work with. My hard tubes were slightly trimmed and straightened/bent a bit. Amazingly, done right, they won't leak.

I like Aeroquip StartLite kevlar hose. The outer braid is black with a red trace. Stuff is light, pliable, and easy to work with.

British American Transport (BAT-Inc) is the US importer for Mocal. They also carry a good selection of hoses and fittings. Depending on what you get, sometimes their prices are better than Summit. The customer service there is excellent, if you ever have questions or want about hoses, fittings, or any of their products. www.bat-inc.net

If you are happy with the fuel pressure you are getting from the stock regulator, then there is no need to replace it. Keep it mounted to the top of the M-Tuned fuel rail. For the return line from the stock fuel pressure regulator, I'd have a 3/8" barb attached (welded or brazed?) to the fpr's output tube. I wouldn't mess with a hard line adapter there.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

What's the point of using some SS or kevlar hose if I'm not going all the way?

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Um wait, why are you redoing your fuel system?

Also, regardless of the outer material, if you're using fuel, you want the hose with the teflon/PTFE guts. Summit sells it.

Do not use an ebay regulator. A genuine aeromotive is only $130 from amazon. I used a nice small one that comes with -6 fittings.

miata2fast

iTrader: (2)

I am not doubting your man's expertise. However SM cars have to run stock lifters. The NAs have to run the heavy as **** hydraulic.

Perhaps you should buy a new set of 94-97 springs. They are stiff enough to lug the heavy hydraulic lifters. With the shim under buckets, I would think they would not have any problem closing on the bumpiest of tracks. SUBs are very light compared to hydraulics. Don't forget that Y8s valves will be lighter than stock as well. Together the valvetrain will be very reliable. No more worries about slinging out stock shims either.

If you have any doubts about the spring's ability to close, add titanium retainers. Why buy something that will throw power away, when you can spend money elsewhere to get the same results and more power???

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Reliability, cleanliness, and safety. If it ever got hot under that hood, I'd want SS hose rather than rubber. Whatever I use is getting wrapped in fire-sleeve.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I appreciate the concern, but I'm not spending $400+ to convert to SUB, $250 in OEM springs, and $200 on retainers. If I lose any power, I'll add .25psi of boost. I don't have the money to do this in the first place.

miata2fast

iTrader: (2)

Just trying to help.

When you do have the money to do more cylinder head work, I hope you consider it.

spoolin2bars

iTrader: (1)

that 1k includes labor i hope.

let's see on, my 4g63 head was:

275.00 port/polish work. (not fair price, bro price from a port/polish madman)
215.00 crower springs and Ti retainers
176.00 swirl polished, undercut, stainless valves from Si valves
500.00 276/276 web cams
150.00 3 angle valve job, deck, and swap out hardware (valves, springs, etc)
$1316.00 total

raise rev limit from 7000 to 8,250rpm on stock bottom end. win
wish i could put my 4g63 in my miata. 400+whp on stock bottom is awesome.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

$400 for the valve job, decking, lash adjustment, and pressure testing.

vehicular

iTrader: (3)

1.) The hose I mentioned is an Eaton/ Weatherhead product, PN H100xx where xx is the AN size. It uses a nitrile inner liner, which is gasoline and alcohol safe. My hose dude (Anthony @ Imperial Supply in Huntsville, AL, btw. Feel free to call him and tell him Chris Spalding sent you) gets <$4/ foot for it in -6 size.


2.) I don't like male hard line adapters. They cost more, look silly, and add possible leak points. I like to run tube nuts and sleeves, and re-flare the tube to the length I need.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/P...s&kr=tube+nuts

http://www.summitracing.com/search/P...r=tube+sleeves

wildo

iTrader: (1)

You would still use ss or kevlar hose, just with a barbed fitting on the fpr end.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Thanks, that's why I put this info in here, I knew someone had better answers than what I had in my head.

However, I'm still not really sure how tube nuts work. This is one pic I found, but how does it attach to the hose?

Does a standard hose-end thread into that nut? If so, I love you.

Does Anthony have an email? Can he get black or red hose fittings? If he can get close to Bat-Inc's prices, I'll use him.

miatauser884

iTrader: (11)

FYI After tightening finger tight, I believe you only want to make another 1/4 turn with a wrench otherwise you risk splitting the flare.

vehicular

iTrader: (3)

The sleeve butts up against the flare, and the nut slides over it, and has AN threads. You just use a male hose end, and rock out. You can probably use the swage lock-type fittings that you would normally use on stainless braided hose, but I always use stainless push-on type fittings with a pinch clamp like McMaster pn 5435K16 for nerdy self assurance. The push on fittings can be a ***** to get into the hose, but a little determination and generic slippery stuff will get them on.


(256) 533-3773 ‎is Anthony's phone number. He's the stereotypical old-man-parts-guy, so, while I'm sure he has an email, the phone is absolutely the best way to get ahold of him. I prefer his stainless fittings. The industrial suppliers he uses don't do enough volume in aluminum to have reasonable prices. He will be able to tell you what he can and can't get, though, obviously. And he will be the first to tell you if somebody can do a better job, or sell you a better product. He's honest to a fault.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

www.aircraftspruce.com

Also, when you make these flares, you should be using a 37° flaring tool. If you use a 45°, you will have problems with tube splitting.

If you're going to work with aerospace parts, I suggest you download FAA AC 43.13-1B here:

http://www1.airweb.faa.gov/Regulator...E?OpenDocument

It's the bible.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Any thoughts on a heater delete? I haven't used it in about 2-years, since that time it snowed on my way to Houston.