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Old 04-21-2014, 05:26 PM   #61
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If it's any consolation, that's a nice, clean car. You'll get there. It will be great.
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Old 04-21-2014, 05:53 PM   #62
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I applaud you for the work you've done. I pretend I know what I'm doing. Keep up the good work
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Old 04-21-2014, 10:29 PM   #63
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Things are getting better. Took my down pipe by a shop today and with how the cracks are, the welder wasn't sure what he can so with it. Crap.

Looks like I may be spending another $500+ I didn't prepare for. Shazbot!
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Old 04-22-2014, 07:04 AM   #64
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Tell the welder to fill it up with weld.
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Old 04-22-2014, 10:23 AM   #65
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[url=https://flic.kr/p/nhpWzM]
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Old 04-22-2014, 08:46 PM   #66
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Got my down pipe back from the shop already. Will I experience any boost creep issues etc where they welded over the "porting"? Should I grind that back out some?
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Old 04-22-2014, 11:18 PM   #67
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Meh. I'd be tempted to clean it up a little but I'd be worried about going hog wild on it. Hopefully its not just filler holding that together at this point.

Then again, I'm no welder so what do I know?
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Old 04-23-2014, 04:10 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tekel View Post
[IMG]birdshit and a belt sander, a new work of modern art[IMG]
I can't comment on the boost creep question, but I certainly hope you didn't pay them very much.

Last edited by gesso; 04-23-2014 at 04:13 AM. Reason: s/grinder/belt sander
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Old 04-23-2014, 07:08 AM   #69
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Did he grind out the cracks?

If not then they're still there. Just underneath that big booger of welds.
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Old 04-23-2014, 08:56 AM   #70
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Make sure the wastegate flapper can still open or you're going to be running ALLOFIT.
If it doesn't...then start grinding.

Looks nice and flat though now!
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Old 04-23-2014, 09:29 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gesso View Post
I can't comment on the boost creep question, but I certainly hope you didn't pay them very much.
Haven't paid anything yet. I'm thinking its going to be around $30-$40. It is a shop i'm always at and they are also doing my exhaust work.


Quote:
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Did he grind out the cracks?

If not then they're still there. Just underneath that big booger of welds.
Guess they technically weren't cracks in the metal. It was the pipe separating from the mounting plate. It was re-welded from both sides. I'm not sure if they grinded it down or not.


Quote:
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Make sure the wastegate flapper can still open or you're going to be running ALLOFIT.
If it doesn't...then start grinding.

Looks nice and flat though now!
Thanks. I will double check that before I mount anything. I plan on cleaning it up some at least to remove the boogers.
TURN DOWN FOR WHAT?

Last edited by Tekel; 04-23-2014 at 09:49 AM.
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Old 04-26-2014, 10:26 PM   #72
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More fun today.

Used a POS pump that broke several times to fill my transmission. Suctioned and replaced my turret oil. It was black. Got engine all plugged back in. IAT installed. Placed my downpipe and bolted the turbo in. Had to remove 1 stud to wiggle it in to place. Attached all my lines and my intercooler. Then I went to bolt on my downpipe to install my exhaust.

CRAP!!!!!!! Down pipe doesn't fit. It hits the rear shelf before the bolts line up. 2 possabilities. 1- ugly downpipe is just bad fitting. 2- when the shop fixed my cracks they added to the plate causing this issue.

Now to decide, do I notch the rear shelf to fit it and chance my exhaust no lining up? Or do I just push this thing off a cliff at this point.
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Old 04-26-2014, 11:22 PM   #73
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If you loosen bolts will the turbo move at all allowing the downpipe to fit?

I know on my manifold to turbo flange i had a little bit of wiggle room.
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Old 04-27-2014, 12:12 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erat View Post
If you loosen bolts will the turbo move at all allowing the downpipe to fit?

I know on my manifold to turbo flange i had a little bit of wiggle room.
I may try tomorrow. It is a good 1/4" though.

I have a line on a new down pipe and exhaust. If I can sell some scrap cars tomorrow, I will pick it up.
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Old 04-27-2014, 12:27 AM   #75
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Not sure what downpipe you have, but on some of the early BEGI's, you needed to hog out the bolt holes a bit to let it rotate. The trick was to rotate it enough for chassis fitment but not so much that it affected wastegate operation. I had to do some of this to mine.
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Old 04-28-2014, 10:33 AM   #76
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Got an extra set of hands and we were able to inch the downpipe in to place by maneuvering it from the bottom. It is a very tight fit and I still need to bend the downpipe more. Right now the end of the downpipe points directly in to the transmission.



Redneck mechanic. Torch and 2 crow bars.


Tight squeeze... Will have to figure out something to give me a little more room.
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Old 04-30-2014, 12:05 PM   #77
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After a lot of thinking, I believe I will be cutting my rear shelf. I still have to bend the downpipe down more so it will clear the transmission and if I can do this, I will then cut the shelf to give it some breathing room. I wouldn't think doing the cut below would jeopardize any integrity. Input?

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Old 04-30-2014, 12:10 PM   #78
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Worked out pretty well for this guy:

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Old 04-30-2014, 12:22 PM   #79
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That is beside the shock tower. I already had to make a notch there for the turbo. And I think I will be a little more delicate than that. I think he used a meth heads mouth and 2 rusty hatchets.
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Old 04-30-2014, 09:21 PM   #80
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CRAP!!!!!!

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