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In which I turbo a 1.6 and get in over my head

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Old 06-16-2017, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by byerlyfactor
Update for today: I was a dumbass and bent the compressor wheel from moving around the housing carelessly. I think I'll end up buying a new wheel or just wait and buy a genuine 2554 or 2560. Or maybe another chinacharger. I don't know for sure yet, and I still have a while to go before I can get to a point where I would make boost.


I also fitted the manifold to the head after making the holes slightly bigger. I still need to do a little grinding so the nuts will all fit. I'm happy with how it looks.
Skip the chinacharger and get a SR20 T25. I've gone through two chinachargers, and they've both been junky on different levels. You can pick up an extremely decent SR20 T25 for 250$-300$, and you'll be perfect for the future. I suggest going on zilvia.net and post a WTB post. I had a response within a day.
The SR20 turbos are garret journal bearings. You get OEM quality, at a chinacharger price.
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Old 06-16-2017, 02:20 PM
  #42  
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bend blades back, call it a day. that's what I'd do at least...
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Old 06-22-2017, 03:26 PM
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Today I did a mini coolant reroute, mostly because I needed more room for the downpipe. I bought 2' of 5/8" heater hose, a 1' 5/8' copper coupling, and a few 15/16" spring clamps. In total, I spent about $15. I'm pleased with how it turned out. It should do a little to keep temps down until I start making boost. Now, I can finally start on the downpipe and exhaust. I really wish I made a bottom mount manifold because it would be a hell of a lot easier. Oh well.


I also bent back the blades per Braineack's advice.
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Old 06-23-2017, 05:04 PM
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I started on the downpipe today. I decided to make pie cuts because 1) there's no way a mandrel bend will fit in there, and 2) it'll give me a lot of practice welding thin gauge material, which I really need to get better with. I'm probably not going to calculate the exact angles I need and instead I'll make lots of pie cuts and use them for the complex angles I'll need.
Here's the first 90 I made. I ended up eyeballing the size of the middle pieces after I set the center line radius to 1" in the calculator and realized that wouldn't work after I started cutting. Also it doesn't quite reach 90 degrees - and I'm not exactly sure why.


Here's a quick comparison to a 90 with a 3" CLR from Summit. Much tighter as you can see. I did the math and my pie cut has a CLR of about 2.3".


Here's my second pie cut 90. Much better than before. This time I cut it correctly for a 2" CLR. I added one more middle section to make it smoother and a little more aesthetically pleasing.


Here's the new one compared to my first. Even tighter.


The smallest sections are a little thicker than a quarter inch, with the edges being a little under. After welding all these up I'm either going to be wayyy better at tigging small stuff or never want to see a tig torch again. Hopefully its the former.
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Old 06-24-2017, 12:20 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by byerlyfactor
I also bent back the blades per Braineack's advice.
what turbo are you running, and why did he advise you to bend the blads?

how are you bending them? Were the tops bent before, and you bent the vanes straight?

wouldnt that negatively change the balance? I cant imagine you could bend them all perfectly and have balance past 100,000rpm

thanks
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Old 06-24-2017, 12:56 AM
  #46  
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It's some t25 chinacharger. I think they were mostly straight before but I guess it'll work if they're all straight after. Yeah the balance is probably off but it's better than when they were bent.
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Old 06-24-2017, 01:28 AM
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Oh ok, I missed his post on the mobile site.

I thought it was some performance gain lol
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