aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Needs more switches. I just recut mine to have a spot for a potentiometer, that way I can have variable launch control you need a megasquirt.

humming

iTrader: (2)

I do... but I need suspension moar.

humming

iTrader: (2)

fun things are a coming :-)

a friend bought this, and it's at my house for me to learn how to use it, and then I'll take it to his shop and teach him. I should have a good month to play with it :-)

humming

iTrader: (2)

First print last night:

humming

iTrader: (2)

re-doing my hood vent and thought I'd give this a try... orange underneath, black on top:

humming

iTrader: (2)

finally got around to drawing up this:

which will go nicely with 2 of these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/310692690983

and recently water jet cut this:


and I'm gonna make me summa this:


Last one is an intake heat shield for the FM intake that puts the filter in the worst possible spot. I see 40-60 degrees above ambient IAT every day.

ozbrock

Damn man, you are always making something cool! I'm interested to see your results with the fan shroud and SPAL fans. I finally installed my hood louvers last weekend and I'm seeing slightly lower temps but there is still room for improvement at high speeds with AC on. I have Joe's intake on my car and usually see IAT's 10-30 degrees above ambient.

humming

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, I'm working on making Joe's intake for my car. I was gonna take it over for him, but not having a welder, it's hard to do for me right now. Regardless, I'm gonna finish up the one for my car. Just trying to figure out how to handle the pre-compressor portion. Until then, the FM heat shield joeereid made should help me a ton.

I'll post up about the fans/shroud once I finish it. I gotta come up with the cash for the fans themselves, every penny counts when you have 3 kids.

humming

iTrader: (2)

tow hook installed, I'll probable take it out and bend it later on when I get a press brake.


new 3d printed shift **** in black.


life without a center console... coming soon.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

3d printed ***** are cool, but weighted ***** feel way better.

humming

iTrader: (2)

Honestly, don't notice a difference between my OEM and this one. Never used a "weighted one".


also:

humming

iTrader: (2)

So I have a problem:
On my way home, dealing with my typical overheating issues, I usually end up running the heater by the end of my freeway stint :-(
anyways, so I'm off the freeway driving the 5 or so remaining miles to my house, and all the sudden the stereo starts cutting in and out. Then idle starts dropping, and I can tell the electrical is struggling. I turn off the heater fan because temps are low enough now, and turn off the stereo. I make it home, let the car cool down for an hour or two, come back out, won't start. Battery measures 12.3 volts with meter. Didn't have time to mess with it more, so I pulled it out. and called it a day.

Today I put the battery on a trickle charger for about 4 hours after work. Car started just fine, but lights were dim, etc. I gave it as much electrical load as I could manage(all lights on, etc...) and it was obviously struggling. turned all the load off, then the car off, and then tried to start it again, not enough juice to crank. I pulled the battery, metered at 11.4 volts. Checked fuses, my fog light fuse was blown, but that's probably been that way for forever because my passenger fog light is busted.

So I replaced that fuse, but I doubt that's the issue. The battery terminals are perfectly clean, battery is back on the float charger (not in the car). If it holds a charge, I'm thinking probably the alternator is my next step? Any suggestions otherwise?

I'm on factory ECU, no electrical modifications besides the OEM EBC is pulled and a 50 ohm resistor in it's place, and the water temp gauge has been modified to move more with temp, and the windshield washer pump was relocated to the cowl area.

Thanks everyone.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>Whats your voltage on the battery while running</p>

humming

iTrader: (2)

I'll have to check that tomorrow. Should be like 14 volts right?

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>Probably more than 14.</p>

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

13.8 charging volts or more is acceptable.

saw your post on FB. just get a rebuild kit and do it yourself? i can help you if needed.

humming

iTrader: (2)

Where can I get a kit? I've been searching with no luck...I was wondering if sean was hi_im_sean, and now I know :-) I've never attempted a rebuild, but I'm not scared to give it a try.

humming

iTrader: (2)

last post in this thread:
MX-5 Miata Forum - alternator rebuild

led me to look up this kit/product/whatever:
3G | Alternator Starter Rebuild Kits

not sure if the guy posting had an NB or not though...

humming

iTrader: (2)

ooh ooh look what I found!!!:
How to: Replace brushes on an NB Hitachi alternator - MX-5 Miata Forum

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

was just reading that.

i cant find a rebuild kit anywhere for that thing! i found a reg assy in the UK for 30 EU but thats it.

by the way its a hitachi LR180-766. you may have better luck searching for that vs "05 miata alternator".

but i think we need to take a few steps back. did you ever get a running voltage measurement? you need to make sure its the alternator and not something else. also, that write up only covers the brushes. the bearing and reg should be replaced during a "rebuild" as well, and either the brushes or regulator can cause the issue you have. is the positive terminal of the alt easy to access on an msm? measure there and at the batt terminal whiles its running.