JohnMatt's half-assed build
05-18-2010, 07:59 PM
#83
Make sure you post up how well that CX racing EWG works. Everything looks great John.
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05-18-2010, 08:09 PM
#85
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05-19-2010, 12:26 PM
#87
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My friend used one of the cheapo cx racing/ebay 46 mills on his 1j and could never get it to work properly.
The cheap wastegates dont have the same amount of stroke as a legitimate valve.... the piston only moved a tad.
He now has went with a precision unit and hasnt had issues....
For us, a 38mm gate isnt that expensive, so i would just buy real. (i picked up my 38mm ms-v for 250 shipped iirc)
im interested to see how it works on your setup though.
The cheap wastegates dont have the same amount of stroke as a legitimate valve.... the piston only moved a tad.
He now has went with a precision unit and hasnt had issues....
For us, a 38mm gate isnt that expensive, so i would just buy real. (i picked up my 38mm ms-v for 250 shipped iirc)
im interested to see how it works on your setup though.
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05-22-2010, 04:01 PM
#89
Looking good, now get it in.
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05-22-2010, 04:22 PM
#91
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I still need to pick up a Kia waterneck and a few other small things before I drop it in.
I'm not too worried about the MMR mounts. My car isn't civil or comfortable by any means so alittle vibration won't hurt my feelings any.
I also might be picking up a Super 60 locally for $200 soon too
I'm not too worried about the MMR mounts. My car isn't civil or comfortable by any means so alittle vibration won't hurt my feelings any.
I also might be picking up a Super 60 locally for $200 soon too
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05-22-2010, 05:26 PM
#93
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If I knew the paint wouldn't come off I would but I don't want to take the chance. Everything fits good just wish the wastegate pointed alitle more away from the turbo and towards the driver side a tad more but I can manage. Yea I keep forgetting about bracing it. I don't know what the hell to order to have everything I need. Might use some scrap metal and use an old bolt hole from the AC PS and attatch it to the bottom of the mani
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05-22-2010, 05:42 PM
#96
I'm going to brace my turbo while i've got the engine out as well so let me build the brace and figure out what length and everything and i'll just try and build one for you too. I'm thinking about just welding a washer or something onto each end of the threaded rod on the turnbuckle.
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05-22-2010, 05:53 PM
#98
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Why would you want to turn the turnbuckle as hard as you can?
Get some proper fitting ends and a threaded center, then tighten it just enough to take out the slack.
Tightening it alot would load the stress on it and when it heats up it will crack from that stress you put on it before.
Get some proper fitting ends and a threaded center, then tighten it just enough to take out the slack.
Tightening it alot would load the stress on it and when it heats up it will crack from that stress you put on it before.
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05-22-2010, 07:36 PM
#99
Why would you want to turn the turnbuckle as hard as you can?
Get some proper fitting ends and a threaded center, then tighten it just enough to take out the slack.
Tightening it alot would load the stress on it and when it heats up it will crack from that stress you put on it before.
Get some proper fitting ends and a threaded center, then tighten it just enough to take out the slack.
Tightening it alot would load the stress on it and when it heats up it will crack from that stress you put on it before.
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05-22-2010, 09:12 PM
#100
Fixed
It's way more than a little vibration. I would never ever use them things.
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It's way more than a little vibration. I would never ever use them things.
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