I did this heat shield on my swap. I'm not sure if it's the heat shield or the routing of the exhaust, but the driver's footwell doesn't heat up at all. I used to roast my feet with just the Racing Beat header!

Ninja edit: Relevant post here

 

Yeah, I think it was your thread that put me onto Moti's old thread. I never did any heat shielding on the car, and even an n/a BP with the RB header got things hot. I did ceramic coat the header, don't know if that really helped.

Could be... LOL. Got another 'life interferes' potential delay looming... but it's another good one that may actually expedite things in the long run. That's all I'm going to say because I don't want to jinx things!

 

I have held off tearing down the car because I want to keep it driveable for the moment due to things, but I have been trying to get in some work on the engine.

Big shout out and thanks to BeerBaron for helping me with some info I needed to get started with the engine work!

For the KPower accessory drive setup that eliminates power steering and a/c, you need the USDM water pump housing ("water passage"), and since my motor is JDM, I had to order one - Honda/Acura p/n 19410-RAA-A00. I was able to get it from KPower, who has a reasonable price and had it in stock. You also need the USDM tensioner and alternator, which are pretty widely available either OEM or aftermarket.




I also installed the rear water neck from KPower, with a new Honda gasket.



I aslo drained what little oil remained in the pan, so the next step is the oil pump/pan swap.

 

Just posting this as something I was I would have done, but if you still have time, I'd order the PRB KPower intake manifold and use this RBB water bypass https://tractuff.com/products/tractu...bypass-adapter

This will allow you to remove your intake manifold without the coolant system draining.

 

This is the kind of stuff that you always find out too late... LOL. That's the price of not being versed in the engine you're swapping in. I already have the KPower RBB manifold, of course.

 

I realized after posting that you already had the parts in boxes in your garage.... LOL

You shouldn't have issues with your RBB manifold (i haven't), but the thought of the cooling system draining if I ever want to remove the manifold kinda sucks when its so easily avoidable. As a different solution (which I just haven't done yet), you can cut the rear of the manifold flange off that supports the coolant passageway and still fit the tractuff adapter on.. It's not as ideal having to trim on the RBB manifold but that's really the only difference between the RBB and PRB.

 

I learned to wrench on V8s, so draining the coolant to pull a manifold is nothing new... Miata BPs are kind of a luxury in that regard. I figure in most cases, if I need to pull the manifold, I'm probably going to be draining the coolant anyway.

 

Picked up the header from ceramic coating today

 

I was hoping to get most of the oil pump swap done today, but the crank bolt pretty much kicked my ***. Impacts, weighted impact sockets, pipes on breaker bars... NOPE. Eventually I had to rummage around until I found my MAPP torch, and then hit it with some heat and I finally got it broken loose, and by that time it was hot enough in the garage that I surrendered for the day.

 

This bolt holds the record for the most leverage I’ve ever applied to a fastener. Two guys holding down the engine, my full body weight on an 8ft pipe…

Welcome to the club I guess…

 

You guys need to get yourselves some Milwaukee 1/2" high torque impact guns. Both of the K24's that I have, it backed them off with the Lisle weighted crank pulley socket like they were nothing. It barely buzzed it for half a second before they broke loose and zipped out.

 

No, I don't. That would set off a dangerous landslide of purchases...

 

I don't understand how anyone working on cars doesn't have a battery rattlegun. They are the goods.

I never use them (other than speed-threading) to do up things that need to be torqued, and that includes wheel nuts, but the speed and ease of undoing tightened fasteners makes them a must-have in my book. Actually, now that I think about it maybe I do use mine to tighten the chassis bracing bolts ...

 

I have both the 20V Bauer 1/2", and a corded DeWalt 1/2". This was the first time the Bauer couldn't handle a bolt...

Judging by the effort required with a 36" breaker + 4' steel tubing, I'm skeptical the Milwaukee would have handled it, but I could be wrong.

No question the battery impacts are incredibly useful.

 

I have a 3/4 air rattlegun, I think I have used it once in the years I have had it, perhaps a rear wheel nut? Sounds as though that bolt falls in to that 'once in a blue moon' category.

I presume it is the threadlocker that's the source of the problem?

 

I think so, considering the application of heat allowed me to break it loose.

 

I'm almost sure it would have had no issue. For perspective, the 20v Bauer 1/2" seems to be rated at 450 lb-ft breakaway torque, and the corded DeWalt 1/2" is rated at 345 lb-ft.

The Milwaukee high torque 1/2" is rated at a staggering 1,400 lb-ft of breakaway torque, it's basically channeling the hand of god in order to break loose whatever fastener you're dealing with. That is the same type of performance that you'll get with most 1" drive pneumatic impact guns that require industrial sized compressors to even function. I definitely don't regret dropping the money on that tool at all, it's saved me a TON of frustration over the years with things like axle nuts and crank bolts.

 

I second all of this... my big boi M18 impact makes removing rusty high torque fasteners look like they were only finger tight.

 

Made some progress today...

Got the timing chain, guides and tensioner off...



... and the oil pan off.



K24 oil pump/balance shafts come off...



And a K20 pump goes on with the KPower adapter and pickup, and a K20 windage tray.



KPower pan on, ready for timing chain install.

 

More progress today... got the cam chain re-installed with a new tensioner and timed the motor. Buttoned everything up with a KPower valve cover modified to clear the hood in an NA, and installed a new water pump.