konmo

iTrader: (2)

That's good to hear, I'll need to look for a good exhaust or fabrication shop near me so I can take it to them once I'm ready to install this. @EO2K would you happen to know of any good shops nearby that can tackle this kind of job?

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Downpipe is stainless? I honestly can't think of any local exhaust shops that actually know what a TIG welder is, let alone trust them to get a v-band flange on straight.

If the midpipe is mild and you don't mind keeping that flat 2 bolt flange, that opens up some options. The last mind steel exhaust I had welded up locally was for my 73 F250 by Howard (iirc?) over at All American on Abbot. He's oldschool guy, drives a super nice 66 Mustang GT350 (probably clone, but still well done) when the weather is nice. I know he can at least get a flange on to a piece of mild, and he's not the type of guy who is going to text his buddies when a Miata with a turbo hanging off of it gets dropped of for exhaust work. Just make sure you tell him exactly what you want and he'll get it done. He does decent work, but unfortunately he's not exactly cheap.

If its stainless, I can shoot out a couple emails and see who people recommend for such things. I haven't had a local go-to since the shop where I used to work closed up.

Hope some of that blathering helps!

konmo

iTrader: (2)

Yep, downpipe is stainless and the midpipe is aluminized steel, not sure if that's still mild steel. I'd prefer to keep the v-band flange only because all the other flanges are v-bands and I don't think my OCD will take kindly to having one different flange lol. I'll ask around as well see if anyone has any experience with this. I don't mind driving out of town if I have to either. If I don't find someone capable I'll resort to using the two bolt flange. This is exactly why I want to learn how to weld.

konmo

iTrader: (2)

Made some more progress on my engine. I removed the paint that I got on the block around the oil filter area. I also installed the front accessories which included a Boundary Engineering oil pump, a new water pump, garage star water pump pulley, and a 949 Racing Supermiata damper. Still need to pull the VVT engine that is currently in the car since I need the valve cover and oil pan from it.

konmo

iTrader: (2)

I've been lagging on this build, but here's a few more things I've purchased to be installed onto this car:

ArtWorks Dewa vent rings climate control face plates/surround ring and K.G. Works pieces for the climate control *****

konmo

iTrader: (2)

I traded my friend my old 1.6 engine for his 1/2" digital Snap On torque wrench. He's going to be running it on his 67 VW beetle.

konmo

iTrader: (2)

On July 15th I finally got the miata into the garage to start pulling the old turbo'ed VVT which is smoking on me.

konmo

iTrader: (2)

Within the next few days, I started pulling apart the older VVT motor to see why it had started to throw smoke on me. I was hoping it would just be a headgasket or maybe valve seals or piston rings. Turns it it was much worse than that.

Circlip holding the wrist pin for piston #4 somehow came out the groove and gashed up the cylinder 4 walls.












Piston 2 and 3 seemed okay.





Piston in cylinder #1 was broken in two spots. Looks like detonation occurred in that area. I could be wrong though. The cylinder wall seemed okay.








Excuse all the pictures, but I just wanted to show you guys the carnage. Does it look salvagable? The crank wasn't all scratched up so I think at least the part is good. Head also look good, I'll will have it checked later on and can post pictures.

konmo

iTrader: (2)

Next thing I did was swap out the long 1.8 oil pipe that the oil filter and "oil warmer" screw onto and replaced it with the 1.6 version since I was no longer going to be using the oil warmer sandwich plate. I used the double nut method to unscrew it out of the block, it came out pretty easy.

konmo

iTrader: (2)

Next I sealed the oil pan and installed the vvt line and the 1.6 oil pressure sensor.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

I should really get you a MKTurbo sticker to replace that FM one with.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

I regret not doing this when I had the chance, seeing as I deleted all the other water lines. /sigh.

konmo

iTrader: (2)

I'm glad I did. I wasn't going to do it at first, but instead just plug up the nipples on the oil warmer. Since I was waiting for parts to come back from powder coating I needed something to keep me busy. It actually came out pretty effortlessly. I don't see why you couldn't do it with the engine already in the car. Besides it being a bitch to get to, seems doable lol

konmo

iTrader: (2)

haha not sure why I still have that on there. It was already on the car when I purchased it. I barely own any Flyin' Miata parts besides their rear main seal installer tool lol

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Do you plan on running a mocal style oil cooler thermostat plate?

konmo

iTrader: (2)

Next up was installing the alternator and accessory belt. I am using a 100 Amp alternator from a 94 RX7. Removed the factory pulley and replaced it with the Garage Star Pulley.



I mocked up the TSE manifold and also installed the mixing manifold and heater core hard line. Thinking of wrapping the hard line with some DEI reflective gold tape to help with heat from the turbo manifold. Opinions?

konmo

iTrader: (2)

I don't know very much about those. I'll have to look into it some more. Is that a sandwich plate similar to the oil warmer I deleted?

konmo

iTrader: (2)

Early last week while I was still waiting for my parts to be painted, I mocked up the turbo (with zipties since inconel studs hadn't arrived at the yet)

konmo

iTrader: (2)

After a long 4 weeks, I finally got my parts from powder coating. They lagged and I wasn't to happy about it, but at least I have my parts back now. I got the Intake manifold, valve cover, turbo compressor housing, and VVT mechanism powder coated.

konmo

iTrader: (2)

This Sunday I worked on swapping the VVT hardline for a braided -4AN line instead. I cut the line on top of the valve cover and I drilled and tapped it for 1/8" NPT. I did the same the metal line on the side on the block. I didn't have a 45 degree AN fitting for the side of the block, so the 90 will have to do for now.