Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1021769)
Nickle anti-seize.
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lightly tighten the vband, hit the flange or the clamp with a hammer and tighten again.
Vbands without gaskets will always leak a little bit, but there shouldnt be very much if the flange was decked after welding and clamped while welding. |
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Today, the Wilwood 11.75" kit came in. The one with the radial mount calipers and they are HUGE. There is so much more beef in these compared to the lug mount DLs, they should be awesome. I mainly went for the radials because they offer more clearance/wheel choice.
Also, I'm wrapping the oil/water lines and wastegate signal lines with one million degrees heat wrap. I'm using a Pierburg boost solenoid valve, used by many OEMs and Subaru/ProDrive, et al.
Originally Posted by shlammed
(Post 1021848)
lightly tighten the vband, hit the flange or the clamp with a hammer and tighten again.
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New hubs mounted in the rear, as well as the ASTs.
Also, new front LCAs came in. need to transfer the ES bushes from the current LCAs. Glad the new ones came with no bushings installed. |
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Dyno time tomorrow!
ASTs are mounted, base ride height set. New front LCAs and tie rods.Initially the front shocks were very low and it looked like a CR.net car with 5+* degrees of static camber. My NB subframe has slight 'adjustments' for more camber. Goals for tomorrow are: - Leak down test - Rewrite ECU map. Main maps: RPM vs Throttle% and secondary maps: RPM vs MAP. Currently the compensation map is based just on MAP. - Retune fuel (probably lean compared to previous setup) - Retune spark, aiming for 250rwhp - Tune EBC for 0.8, 1.0 and 1.2bar boost (11.5, 14.5 and 17.5psi) - Tune tip-in/out - Tune idle |
Awesomeness inbound. Looking great.
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Add tune hot start to the list. Cranking for minutes at a time gets old real fast every time you stall it :giggle:
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Originally Posted by Oscar
(Post 1024319)
Add tune hot start to the list. Cranking for minutes at a time gets old real fast every time you stall it :giggle:
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Wow, this build has picked up a lot of momentum lately. When is the start of your next season?
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Originally Posted by Laur3ns
(Post 1021766)
Oil drain has oil, so I am probably overreacting. I feel better about it than I did last night.
Also, how tight are those v-bands supposed to be? I think I still have a slight exhaust leak somewhere. I've already killed one on the test pipe :) Luckily I had a spare. Hand tools only. |
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Dyno results are in, and I'm happy.
at 0.8bar (11psi) I'm making what my GT2560R was doing at 1.1bar (16psi), which is 255rwhp. This run is at 1.0bar (14.5psi) and I'm making 228lbft wheel torque and 277rwhp. The 1.2-1.3bar maps show that I make more torque, but not much more hp, so I probably run into TB/intake limits there. |
nice looking curve, just as expected.
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Will post comparison to 2560 later.
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Originally Posted by Laur3ns
(Post 1024308)
Dyno time tomorrow!
ASTs are mounted, base ride height set. New front LCAs and tie rods.Initially the front shocks were very low and it looked like a CR.net car with 5+* degrees of static camber. My NB subframe has slight 'adjustments' for more camber. Goals for tomorrow are: - Leak down test - Rewrite ECU map. Main maps: RPM vs Throttle% and secondary maps: RPM vs MAP. Currently the compensation map is based just on MAP. - Retune fuel (probably lean compared to previous setup) - Retune spark, aiming for 250rwhp - Tune EBC for 0.8, 1.0 and 1.2bar boost (11.5, 14.5 and 17.5psi) - Tune tip-in/out - Tune idle
Originally Posted by Laur3ns
(Post 1026333)
Will post comparison to 2560 later.
Very interested in overlay of the 2 turbos |
I love that I have only 12-14% driveline loss. That is on a 4WD dyno, so F+R. That is: line bored crank, twin clutch, rebuild Quaife box, rebuild Torsen, rebuild axles, bearings and hubs.
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how did they measure drivetrain loss, did they pull the motor and then engine dyno it alone before/after the chassis dyno then do some basic math?
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Haven't found the best data files for GT2560R@1.1bar (16psi) vs GT2860RS@0.8bar (11.5psi), but:
- at 3000rpm the make the same boost and torque - from >3100rpm the 28 takes off in terms of torque. So, the 94BP w/2560 on a BEGI log spools slightly worse than a 99BP w/GT2860RS on AbsurdFlow... so you can have your cake and eat it too! The funny part is that the 28 at 11psi is sleeping and only comes alive at 15psi+ |
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Here's 0.8bar/11.5psi, 1.0bar/14.5psi, 1.2bar/17.5psi and 1.3bar/19psi.
You can see at 1.2bar+ I'm making more torque, but not more hp. Must be the throttle body/intake. |
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Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 1026376)
how did they measure drivetrain loss, did they pull the motor and then engine dyno it alone before/after the chassis dyno then do some basic math?
Produces this graph: |
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Originally Posted by Laur3ns
(Post 1026385)
Must be the throttle body/intake.
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