Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats. (https://www.miataturbo.net/)
-   Build Threads (https://www.miataturbo.net/build-threads-57/)
-   -   Laur3ns going AbsurdFlow (https://www.miataturbo.net/build-threads-57/laur3ns-going-absurdflow-73146/)

Laur3ns 06-14-2013 11:09 AM


Originally Posted by Leafy (Post 1021769)
Nickle anti-seize.

I'm using that (copper based) and grease on all the flanges, so it's not a friction issue.

shlammed 06-14-2013 02:37 PM

lightly tighten the vband, hit the flange or the clamp with a hammer and tighten again.


Vbands without gaskets will always leak a little bit, but there shouldnt be very much if the flange was decked after welding and clamped while welding.

Laur3ns 06-17-2013 03:15 PM

4 Attachment(s)
Today, the Wilwood 11.75" kit came in. The one with the radial mount calipers and they are HUGE. There is so much more beef in these compared to the lug mount DLs, they should be awesome. I mainly went for the radials because they offer more clearance/wheel choice.

Also, I'm wrapping the oil/water lines and wastegate signal lines with one million degrees heat wrap. I'm using a Pierburg boost solenoid valve, used by many OEMs and Subaru/ProDrive, et al.


Originally Posted by shlammed (Post 1021848)
lightly tighten the vband, hit the flange or the clamp with a hammer and tighten again.

Thanks, will try.

Laur3ns 06-18-2013 05:15 PM

6 Attachment(s)
New hubs mounted in the rear, as well as the ASTs.

Also, new front LCAs came in. need to transfer the ES bushes from the current LCAs. Glad the new ones came with no bushings installed.

Laur3ns 06-23-2013 04:33 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Dyno time tomorrow!

ASTs are mounted, base ride height set. New front LCAs and tie rods.Initially the front shocks were very low and it looked like a CR.net car with 5+* degrees of static camber. My NB subframe has slight 'adjustments' for more camber.

Goals for tomorrow are:
- Leak down test
- Rewrite ECU map. Main maps: RPM vs Throttle% and secondary maps: RPM vs MAP. Currently the compensation map is based just on MAP.
- Retune fuel (probably lean compared to previous setup)
- Retune spark, aiming for 250rwhp
- Tune EBC for 0.8, 1.0 and 1.2bar boost (11.5, 14.5 and 17.5psi)
- Tune tip-in/out
- Tune idle

Mobius 06-23-2013 04:53 PM

Awesomeness inbound. Looking great.

Oscar 06-23-2013 05:55 PM

Add tune hot start to the list. Cranking for minutes at a time gets old real fast every time you stall it :giggle:

Leafy 06-23-2013 09:41 PM


Originally Posted by Oscar (Post 1024319)
Add tune hot start to the list. Cranking for minutes at a time gets old real fast every time you stall it :giggle:

And hot post start enrichment. Having the car turn over and start great cold but require you to keep on the gas pedal a touch for the next 2 minutes after a hot start also sucks.

Scrappy Jack 06-24-2013 09:58 AM

Wow, this build has picked up a lot of momentum lately. When is the start of your next season?

hustler 06-24-2013 10:09 AM


Originally Posted by Laur3ns (Post 1021621)
This scares me:

GT2860RS Spin - YouTube

I think that's normal. Also, remember this bearing has a metal cage so it's going to supposedly make more noise. Maybe call Owens and see what they say.

Originally Posted by Laur3ns (Post 1021766)
Oil drain has oil, so I am probably overreacting. I feel better about it than I did last night.
Also, how tight are those v-bands supposed to be? I think I still have a slight exhaust leak somewhere.

I've already killed one on the test pipe :) Luckily I had a spare. Hand tools only.

Take the flanges apart and check them for soot/leaks. The metal will burn away if you have a leak. The wastegate will be a huge bitch to get seated and you will need to use a deadblow. Connect the dump-tube and then the WG to the manifold. The Turbo should be pretty easy to line-up.

Laur3ns 06-28-2013 11:39 AM

2 Attachment(s)
Dyno results are in, and I'm happy.
at 0.8bar (11psi) I'm making what my GT2560R was doing at 1.1bar (16psi), which is 255rwhp.

This run is at 1.0bar (14.5psi) and I'm making 228lbft wheel torque and 277rwhp.

The 1.2-1.3bar maps show that I make more torque, but not much more hp, so I probably run into TB/intake limits there.

Braineack 06-28-2013 12:01 PM

nice looking curve, just as expected.

Laur3ns 06-28-2013 12:46 PM

Will post comparison to 2560 later.

18psi 06-28-2013 12:55 PM


Originally Posted by Laur3ns (Post 1024308)
Dyno time tomorrow!

ASTs are mounted, base ride height set. New front LCAs and tie rods.Initially the front shocks were very low and it looked like a CR.net car with 5+* degrees of static camber. My NB subframe has slight 'adjustments' for more camber.

Goals for tomorrow are:
- Leak down test
- Rewrite ECU map. Main maps: RPM vs Throttle% and secondary maps: RPM vs MAP. Currently the compensation map is based just on MAP.
- Retune fuel (probably lean compared to previous setup)
- Retune spark, aiming for 250rwhp
- Tune EBC for 0.8, 1.0 and 1.2bar boost (11.5, 14.5 and 17.5psi)
- Tune tip-in/out
- Tune idle

The attached picture looks SO SICK:drool:

Originally Posted by Laur3ns (Post 1026333)
Will post comparison to 2560 later.

The curve looks very good, 'grats.

Very interested in overlay of the 2 turbos

Laur3ns 06-28-2013 02:07 PM

I love that I have only 12-14% driveline loss. That is on a 4WD dyno, so F+R. That is: line bored crank, twin clutch, rebuild Quaife box, rebuild Torsen, rebuild axles, bearings and hubs.

Braineack 06-28-2013 02:17 PM

how did they measure drivetrain loss, did they pull the motor and then engine dyno it alone before/after the chassis dyno then do some basic math?

Laur3ns 06-28-2013 02:26 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Haven't found the best data files for GT2560R@1.1bar (16psi) vs GT2860RS@0.8bar (11.5psi), but:
- at 3000rpm the make the same boost and torque
- from >3100rpm the 28 takes off in terms of torque.

So, the 94BP w/2560 on a BEGI log spools slightly worse than a 99BP w/GT2860RS on AbsurdFlow... so you can have your cake and eat it too!

The funny part is that the 28 at 11psi is sleeping and only comes alive at 15psi+

Laur3ns 06-28-2013 02:28 PM

8 Attachment(s)
Here's 0.8bar/11.5psi, 1.0bar/14.5psi, 1.2bar/17.5psi and 1.3bar/19psi.
You can see at 1.2bar+ I'm making more torque, but not more hp. Must be the throttle body/intake.

Laur3ns 06-28-2013 02:38 PM

2 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by Braineack (Post 1026376)
how did they measure drivetrain loss, did they pull the motor and then engine dyno it alone before/after the chassis dyno then do some basic math?

Neither. The first run is that they run the car up to redline (but not under power, just to get up to the rpm) and let it coast till idle. The dyno calculates loss (knowing it's own loss) and uses it in subsequent runs.

Produces this graph:

Laur3ns 06-28-2013 02:42 PM

2 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by Laur3ns (Post 1026385)
Must be the throttle body/intake.

Here is 1.0 vs 1.3:


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:33 AM.


© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands