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What you need is one of these, the Krikit. Although they seem to cost twice what I bought mine for in 2019 or so. Krikit by Gates
And given the Cam shaft bolt, it is possible you over tightened the belt.
Really nice save on the cam shaft bolt, by the way!
That link says 'not for timing belts'. I didn't look for one that is.
That link says 'not for timing belts'. I didn't look for one that is.
Right, but we were talking about alternator, water pump belts, which that Krikit is used for.
Anyhow, Google and/or Amazon on Krikit turned up multiple brands even though it must be a Gates trademark. So that might turn up a timing belt unit if you are looking for one.
Yes like Icedawg was saying I got the krikit for the alternator and accessory belts, timing belt was done with the spring so no need for me to guess n check.
After driving for a bit I’m very impressed with how smooth the car feels with the fluidampr. Previously at high revs it had a rather unpleasant shake. Now it feels the same at 7k as 3k.
I can’t wait for more autocross events to get some more seat time.
I am also in the process of looking for aftermarket seats. I had read it is not good to use fixed back seats with 3pt belts because of submarining but I’m not sure if that matters / is relevant if I’ve got a rollbar. Also I figure if I can get a bit lower and move my head further away from the rollbar that might be a big improvement in safety anyway.
If you thread the lap belt through the holes, you can use Kirkey seats with it. I've done it.
Were they comfortable? I have a “real” car but I end up driving the Miata to work on days that it isn’t rainy haha. I’ll have to go out to some meets to try out some seats.
I was surprised how comfortable they were. Much better than any molded fiberglass/resin seats I ever sat in. Could sit in all day. Nice bonus is the removable cover allows additional padding to be inserted beneath and even moved around for shifting lumbar support location on long drives.
The model I used was the Kirkey Pro Drag. Can't recall the width.
I was driving back from a work event & I revved at a stop light (no one around) and blew the heater core hose off of the coolant reroute.
I drove for a bit but I saw the temp starting to climb so I pulled into a parking lot.
Smokey
Whoops
I’ll probably go back, reattach the hose & drive it home to bleed the system but I have to wait for it to cool down. I was taking a log with the mega squirt so I was able to see top temp was only 230 which I think should be alright.
I did this with my RGM. I had failed to tighten one of the hoses at the block end, and I remember smelling something hot when I overtook a car on the fwy, about 20 kms later I stopped, can't remember why, but yeah it was hot, all the water pumped out. Trailered it home, filled the radiator up, and away we went, no apparent consequences. Bullet dodged.
Sometimes you can be lucky, fingers crossed this is you. If it didn't seize (BTDT on another occasion) you might be ok, if you weren't giving it stick after the water went, you might be ok.
Started out with an early morning today since I was worried about the car being towed. Went to the parking lot with some extra coolant, a hose clamp & some basic tools and got to work.
I reattached the hose & added the hose clamp then cold filled & bled as best as I could. Unfortunately I had left the car on a slight downward incline so it was not good for bleeding the coolant. Filled it up as best as I could then fired it up just for a bit to pull a U and stick the nose up. After that topped off & hot bled the system for a little. Once I stopped seeing bubbles pop up I closed it up and let it idle a bit to make sure things seemed normal. Decided to go for it and drove home. No issues on the drive and no more big puddles though the smell of burnt coolant is horrendous.
I will definitely need to wash out the engine bay.
Anything y’all think I need to look out for or if it runs and drives I should be good to go?
Any idea why the hose popped off? Was it just a loose hose clamp?
If it were me I'd probably just double check the coolant level after you put some more miles on it. I think if you did any major damage like warping the head you'd know by now (or will know pretty quickly).
Drive it for a few days, after hot bleeding coolant again.
The head gasket seal is the first concern/tell tale.
So watch for white smoke out the back, and change the oil in a weeks time to check for the chocolate milkshake look.
Another bad sign is if it keeps bubbling when hot bleeding, indicating combustion gas pressurizing the coolant system through the head gasket.
No matter what, if it got hot, you will want an oil change soon.
Any idea why the hose popped off? Was it just a loose hose clamp?
If it were me I'd probably just double check the coolant level after you put some more miles on it. I think if you did any major damage like warping the head you'd know by now (or will know pretty quickly).
Yea I imagine the hose clamp wasn’t fully seated or maybe was too high, not sure. I’ll do a more thorough hot bleed this weekend to make sure it doesn’t have any bubbles or anything. (And won’t drive it in the meantime)
Originally Posted by Icedawg
Drive it for a few days, after hot bleeding coolant again.
The head gasket seal is the first concern/tell tale.
So watch for white smoke out the back, and change the oil in a weeks time to check for the chocolate milkshake look.
Another bad sign is if it keeps bubbling when hot bleeding, indicating combustion gas pressurizing the coolant system through the head gasket.
No matter what, if it got hot, you will want an oil change soon.
Will do, I didn’t see any smoke while driving, is that something that could develop after a bit longer?
What is the reasoning for an oil change if it got hot?
The white smoke would show up right away, or very soon after, if the head warped and the head gasket was leaking.
The oil gets cooked at high temperatures, becomes oxidized, and is generally degraded. Think of it as an extra 2-3000 miles of driving added to the oil expected lifetime, or worse, depending upon how hot. If the coolant is not doing its job, then the oil takes on more of the cooling load, and gets damaged at the higher temp.
230 F is OK for oil, but it will be considerably hotter than the water gauge read.
The white smoke would show up right away, or very soon after, if the head warped and the head gasket was leaking.
The oil gets cooked at high temperatures, becomes oxidized, and is generally degraded. Think of it as an extra 2-3000 miles of driving added to the oil expected lifetime, or worse, depending upon how hot. If the coolant is not doing its job, then the oil takes on more of the cooling load, and gets damaged at the higher temp.
230 F is OK for oil, but it will be considerably hotter than the water gauge read.
Got it, that is too bad as this oil was fresh but better safe than sorry. Appreciate all the advice.
I had a similar thing happen to me after buying my NA. Drove it to work one morning and put it onto the alignment rack at my work, as I was raising the car on the rack, one of the heater hoses gave out and the car puked coolant all over the floor. Bullet dodged I suppose lol.
I had the SM coolant reroute too and I think somewhere in the instructions SM specifies that the heater hose barb used was the closest size they could get but is still a little smaller than the heater hose ID. Can't remember if they specified that you need to do anything other than clamp the hose down a little extra tight or retorque it after a certain amount of time. Might be worth it to go back and check on what they said.
I had a similar thing happen to me after buying my NA. Drove it to work one morning and put it onto the alignment rack at my work, as I was raising the car on the rack, one of the heater hoses gave out and the car puked coolant all over the floor. Bullet dodged I suppose lol.
I had the SM coolant reroute too and I think somewhere in the instructions SM specifies that the heater hose barb used was the closest size they could get but is still a little smaller than the heater hose ID. Can't remember if they specified that you need to do anything other than clamp the hose down a little extra tight or retorque it after a certain amount of time. Might be worth it to go back and check on what they said.
Yep I followed the instructions and as far as I noticed there wasn’t any specific call out, it’s all good though I’ve got it snug now so hopefully it is taken care of.
Well did the hot bleed & refilled the overflow, just a couple of bubbles. I left the car idling for 30 min, no immediate concerns about dumping coolant or smoke so I gave it a few strong revs and thankfully it didn’t blow any hoses or smoke. Will drive it for some time later today & see if it has any issues.
My biggest concern though being in Texas, I might overheat and give out before the Miata…