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Haha go ahead and let loose. I’ve got my kraken top mount with gt2560r waiting to go I’m just getting the urge to try to fabricate the brackets and see if I can make it all work DIY style.
The ultimate goal for leaky mustang was a Supercoupe Eaton m90 which never came to fruition. I want to scratch that itch now but we will see if my patience and fabrication talents are up to snuff.
The top mounting bracket needs to be strengthened a good bit as it’s currently wiggly. I will probably take the intake to an aluminum welder to clean up the inlet & outlet & seal another opening.
Every passing day I can’t drive the Miata I lose more motivation to get it done. But I won’t give up yet.
I made an addition support so the m45 feels rock solid now. Just have to get everything buttoned up & I should be good! I ran the car as shown above and it cranked with no issue & spun the supercharger smoothly.
The piping is dubious at best, obviously there are massive leaks so will get that taken care of slowly but I’m thrilled with the car & excited to start driving it again.
Tubing v2 Throttle connection did not like the heat & flex
Spent some time fixing up the leaks and making the tubing work. Made a peak of 2.3 psi while driving decently conservatively so I’m happy about that.
My diy engine warmer is a little too efficient. At peak rpm I hit MAT of 180~. How hot is too hot? I’ve got the intercooler for the kraken kit ready to go so I’ll probably install that soon.
On my drive the stock injectors hit 101% duty cycle at 6000 rpm. Is that a sign I need to ditch those as well?
The supercharger is loud as hell. I’m enjoying driving with it though I’m still very scared I’ll blow up my engine lol.
On a not-so-great side intercooler setup, we hit 160* AIT and decided to reengineer the intercooler to cool it down more. That was on a 90 degree day, ~300hp, peak temp during a 75 minute Trans Am race, being driven 10/10ths. If you're hitting 180 pedaling around town, panic.
Stay under 85% injector DC. But first install a fuel pressure sensor, and tune AFRs. If you're hitting 101% DC at 20psi of fuel and 10.2afr, you probably have some head room once you fix the fuel pressure and tune. Stock injectors do suck, but with proper pressure and tuning, should be enough for 150whp at 85% DC. So yes, buy injectors, but there's something else going on because you're probably right at that 140-150whp range at 2.3psi.
From an OEM development standpoint we used to target 50C max manifold temp during a fixed gear ~10 second WOT sweep to redline at SAE conditions (25C).
We'd cruise(~60mph) at about 50-55C in Death Valley in the summer with ambient temp around 45-48C typically. And with extended idling it would usually get to around 80C.
If you're hitting 70C routinely, then you need to improve your setup as Curly mentioned. And you better have your fueling, TA based ignition retard, and knock control dialed or she's gonna live a short life. It also gets rather complicated at those high temps. EGT's will be an issue from the IG retard, so it's not as simple as just pulling timing. You also need to be adding fuel to cool the mixture.
101% duty cycle on the injectors is major danger zone! I would not get that thing into boost until you upsize the injectors.
Originally Posted by curly
Stay under 85% injector DC. But first install a fuel pressure sensor, and tune AFRs. If you're hitting 101% DC at 20psi of fuel and 10.2afr, you probably have some head room once you fix the fuel pressure and tune. Stock injectors do suck, but with proper pressure and tuning, should be enough for 150whp at 85% DC. So yes, buy injectors, but there's something else going on because you're probably right at that 140-150whp range at 2.3psi.
Ive got the Kraken EV14s ready to go. Would it be better to try & get my VEs dialed N/A? I also wonder if the fuel filter might need to be replaced. PO included a new one when I purchased the car & it’s around 130k now.
On a not-so-great side intercooler setup, we hit 160* AIT and decided to reengineer the intercooler to cool it down more. That was on a 90 degree day, ~300hp, peak temp during a 75 minute Trans Am race, being driven 10/10ths. If you're hitting 180 pedaling around town, panic.
Panicking!
Originally Posted by engineered2win
From an OEM development standpoint we used to target 50C max manifold temp during a fixed gear ~10 second WOT sweep to redline at SAE conditions (25C).
We'd cruise(~60mph) at about 50-55C in Death Valley in the summer with ambient temp around 45-48C typically. And with extended idling it would usually get to around 80C.
If you're hitting 70C routinely, then you need to improve your setup as Curly mentioned. And you better have your fueling, TA based ignition retard, and knock control dialed or she's gonna live a short life. It also gets rather complicated at those high temps. EGT's will be an issue from the IG retard, so it's not as simple as just pulling timing. You also need to be adding fuel to cool the mixture.
Is the main issue with high temps pre-ignition?
Is methanol injection worth playing around with / simple? There’s a kit from AEM at a good price on fb marketplace & it sounds like it could be a good weekend project. If it’s just a hassle though I’ll install with the inter cooler instead.
Methanol and water injection is a bonus and not a solution. Ducting, location choices, and heat exchanger efficiency are the path to the solution.
And please don't use IAT retard too aggressively. I ruined a good turbo and many other components with high EGTs on track when first implementing it. It was expensive and a PITA.
Alright, I’m one step closer to being legit. I did the work to get the intercooler all setup. While I had the bumper apart I took the opportunity to replace my fog lights. I’ve had the new fog lights sitting on my table for the better part of a year waiting to be installed.
Starting disassembly for my intercooler. (Ignore the oil leak stain :( I’m pretty sure my rear exhaust cam seal is leaking..)
Intercooler mounted - this was an absolute pain. I think I should’ve gone with a smaller intercooler but oh well.
I cut the splash guard for a “nice” fit
Old fogs were all smashed & hazy. Replaced with new almost exact fit units
Had to switch the housings. The vent? is now pointing up. Does anyone know if that needs to be covered/ sealed & pointed down?
Yellow filter for the new fogs
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All lights work now
Fully buttoned up
Need to figure something out for this outlet down to the intercooler piping. The Craigslist seller did me the favor of chopping off the end of the outlet…
I figured as much, I’ll see about finding a solution to prevent getting water in them.
Got my piping sorted. (And blew the 2nd outlet cap)
I spent a decent amount of time eyeballing all of my piping & coupler fitment to get the SC outlet flowing air into the intercooler. I got it all fitted & drove around for a bit then as I let off the gas approaching a light I heard a nice pop and blew the 90 deg elbow off of the outlet.
Drove home & filed some groves in to help the coupler grip well. I took it out again & blew the cap (pictured above next to the filter). I’ll have to figure something out for that.
I hit a peak of 2.6 psi with a peak IAT of 84 deg. I’m pretty happy with the heat improvement. Also with the stock injectors I peaked at 83%~ duty cycle @6k rpm. I’m wondering if hitting 101~ was related to the high IATs.
Regardless I’ll upgrade my injectors soon once I build my confidence enough haha. I’m pretty happy with how well this seems to be coming along.
Being the forward thinker I am, I started working on my injector swap in the street. I took about 30 minutes to get the fuel pump relay unplugged and then went about my business of taking out the fuel rail. I figured I’d simplify things by removing the upper intake manifold. I got all that done and the injectors out then ran out of motivation and sunlight.
After that I had four days of rain or other commitments. Finally today I was able to get back to it and put the new injectors in. I primed the fuel pump and I was leaking fuel from the 4th. Took it out, reseated & the leak continued. Took it out reseated & then leaked from the 2nd. Took it out, reseated and then finally all was good.
I went to get the manifold back on and now it doesn’t fit.
I’m using the injectors from the Kraken kit which are a bit longer than the stock injectors. The kit came with a couple of washers to beef up the injectors. Has anyone run into this issue?
I figured I’d take the easy path and file down the areas which were contacting the fuel rail. I went to pull off the hoses so I can file easily. My hand slipped and I caught an edge right between my fingers. I got a nice gash so my wrenching is done for today.
Oh good, another 2000 SE with the proper form of forced induction. Pay no mind to sixshooter, he's just jealous he didn't opt for the sublime air-raid siren whine of a supercharger.
I never posted my trials and tribulations on here (my sensitive soul couldn't have handled the abuse from all the turbo folks) but it is on other major Miata forums. One thing I will say after my quick glance through yours here is that the coolant reroute is amazingly easy if you have the transmission out of the way.
I’ve been enduring an injector nightmare.
I’m using the injectors from the Kraken kit which are a bit longer than the stock injectors. The kit came with a couple of washers to beef up the injectors. Has anyone run into this issue?
Ouch, that looks like it hurts even a few days later.
I had Deatswerk 660 cc injectors, but they are a slightly different size too. They came with some rubber grommet fittings, and I had to fuss about with what combination of stock and the Deatswerk supplied parts I needed in order to get the fuel rail to seat properly and to seal. Using new stock parts help, as they are more flexible.
Sounds like you need to play around with several combinations to get it to fit and to seal.