Haha another lost soul I see. I will eventually go to turbo hopefully. The supercharger is annoyingly loud with my diy setup. That said, I’ve also been eyeing some diy ITB setups so I may be hopeless lol.

I think if I eventually pull my engine or when I drop the trans I may need to go back in & clean up my reroute install. I think it’s held together by copious RTV & prayers.

You are spot on Ice, I removed one of the supplied washers and everything cranked down nicely. Thankfully the cut isn’t bothersome at all actually and I kept it taped closed so it’s mostly fine.

I was able to get everything reattached & do some initial rough tuning. On first startup the car sounded awesome & lopey like a muscle car haha. I’ve got it working nice ish, didn’t want to push it too far since some of the ve values are still too high.

I need to go back & get the startup working well though. I’m only able to crank once I step on the gas. Not sure if I’m flooding or not giving enough. I’ll need to troubleshoot some more.

 

Lost soul? I don't think so. Not to derail your thread, but here is how mine sits:

 

That’s awesome yours looks great. I really want to get some new wheels. I’m thinking bronze hypergrams. I’ll eventually need to do the paint as well but I’d rather keep driving & tinkering.

 

Don't know if you've seen any like ours with bronze wheels, here's a picture of mine with my old Konig Lightspeeds:

 

Checking in to show my support for belt driven forced induction.

 

Nice, I do love the bronze.

Seems there are a couple supers among us!

 

Just realized you got it figured out. I'll leave this here in case someone else stumbles upon it with a similar issue.

Hey @LilPlum Are you using the washers on the injectors or the fuel rail spacers? Flowforce includes spacers with their kits that go on the spacers, but it sounds like you might've put yours on the injectors somehow? Here's a link to what I'm talking about
https://goflowforce.com/products/mia...WZ6hXCls9ovnZA

I'm sure you could just use washers for that purpose (sounds like that's what Kraken ended up doing based on your post).

 

I did put them on the fuel rail spacers like shown in the photo. The kraken kit came with 6 so I put one on each side. That is what was causing the interference with the manifold. I took one off of each spacer and everything fit with no issues. So just like you are mentioning probably for someone who is running into any issues, checking various combinations while things are hand tight will help get proper fitment with minimum headache

One additional helpful tip for anyone else doing it is adding a dab of RTV to the spacers to help keep them in place while you fiddle around with the fuel rail & seating the injectors. Before I added the dab I dropped one of the spacers and had to contort to fish it out of the lower manifold.

 

Everything has been running well with the new injectors! I’ve been able to drive it with no issues. Only real problem is it’s super loud. Definitely pretty annoying. I don’t have the dual TB setup and left the TB in the stock position so it is still trying to force air through while the TB is closed. Anyone have any simple solutions? Hypothetically this is temporary so I don’t really want to rig a second tb. Are there cheap electronic blow off valves? Would be nice to be able to wire it to stay more open at low rpm or tps.

 

Aircraft use pop off valves on certain forced induction systems. I used to have one. They were designed to bleed off excess boost above a certain threshold. Just a spring-loaded valve.

That's got to be tough on that supercharger and probably why it is protesting so loudly. If it is taking a full gulp of air with every turn and trying to cram it against the closed door of the throttle body, ouch. I bet your fuel economy has gone to hell with all of that parasitic load.

 

Thanks I’ll check that out! Yes it’s clear the sc does not love pushing air into the closed door. Fuel economy has felt about the same though I always felt the Miata ran out of gas quickly lol. The SC was a fun experiment but I don’t know I’ll keep it around too long.

 

Finally got around to tuning my hot starts. The car would crank endlessly and I had to press the gas pedal to actually get the engine going. Turns out I was waaaay rich on my cranking pulse. After quite a bit of iteration I brought it down to 105% around 200 deg and it started smoothly. I wanted a bit more granular control at the higher temperatures so I shifted the table up (I guess I wont be starting the car when its 10 degrees out ). Overall I am rather pleased with myself though the mosquitos went to town on me since I was stationary.

On an unrelated note, since the MS has a can output (forgive my ignorance as I really know very little about hardware communication) I am thinking it would be awesome to DIY a display for some of the interesting values. I know there are a couple on the market so it should be feasible. Has anyone on the board tried something similar? Edit: I see there is some work on this but I'm not seeing a completed project. https://www.miataturbo.net/ecus-tuni...-4-0-a-109272/

 

Also, while I am playing with all these projects my kraken manifold and 2560r are waiting patiently.


One day my sweet..​​​​​​

 

If you’re looking for a display solution, lots of people have made them for MS-equipped cars via Raspberry Pi computers. There’s quite a few ways to go, both premade and DIY. I made one for my NA using Beavis Motorsport’s instructions. I think it cost around $200 all in.

These aren’t CAN-bus units, rather computers posing as a dashboard, but they work and they’re relatively easy to rig up!

As a bonus, since they run off of TunerStudio, you can mess with your tune right on the display. I got a wireless keyboard for mine and could tune live from the driver seat any time without my laptop, which was sick haha.

 

I'm currently working on building a small ESP32 based display. The idea is to communicate via CAN with the Link G4x to be able to display sensor data. On the Speeduino I had before, I could use my phone + bluetooth to read the values, but I don't see a way to do that with the G4x.

I probably would've looked into the MeatPi adapters if I'd done more research before diving in, but I also was interested in learning the ESP32 platform a bit. They have native CAN, but I didn't realize you need a transceiver to drive the levels properly. I also had to get buck converters to step down the 12 V from the Link's CAN header. At this point the MeatPi and RealDash probably would've been cheaper and easier.

I've still got a ways to go, but I think I have all the parts and most of the code is there, although the CAN stuff is untested so I'm sure that's pretty broken. FWIW the BMM KaN Gauge also uses an esp32.

Right now it just randomly generates some numbers. If the value hits the warning or error value then the LED's change color accordingly. Not sure if I'll keep those though just due to packaging and simplicity concerns.