FrankB

iTrader: (4)

I think I have decided to pull the trigger on a water/meth injection kit. Probably going to go with the AEM v2 kit. I just wish they had an option between a 1 gallon tank and the 5 gallon tank.

Me too, thanks for the help with it!

Okay, I might go back and do the same if the tape doesn't hold up.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

FrankB

iTrader: (4)

Now I just need a real Megasquirt Guru to fine tune it for ALLOFIT! If only there was someone here who could do such a thing... Or maybe someone who could cretic my tune.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

I'm happy to help

FrankB

iTrader: (4)

I'm planning on building a swirl pot to mount next to the ABS unit. This will double as my new coolant fill location as well. I will probably post this picture in the racing prep section for design cretic.

FrankB

iTrader: (4)

Alright I got my AEM V2 water/methanol injection kit all installed today and I took the car out the adjust the VE table afterwards.



Below is a log of a 3rd gear pull at 248kpa... Maxing out my MAP sensor in the MS3. Meth is set to start to taper on at 11psi and come on full at 15psi (I'm using the #500 nozzle)



Here are my VE and Spark tables as of right now (99% sure my spark is beyond conservative as ****)



Thinking of installing the #1000 nozzle instead. according to AEM's chart I'm right in between the 500 and the 1000... go figure...

I also need to get to a dyno to tune my spark table.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

that's gotta be good for at least 350

FrankB

iTrader: (4)

I hope so!

BTW the level of the fluid in the methanol tank in that picture is after about 2 and a half hours of pulls tuning . That's not bad.

That's one of the reasons why I am thinking of going back out to tune with the 1000 nozzle. I'm looking forward to seeing how this kit will help my engine temps on the track too. My next DE is on the 17th and 18th of this month.
I'm curious to see how much fluid I'll be using during the 25 minute sessions too.

FrankB

iTrader: (4)

As my luck would have it. I am getting a weird terrible grinding, roaring noise from the right rear, but only on hard right hand turns. I know that generally if you are getting a wheel bearing noise it will be exaggerated on the outer most side of the car where all the weight transfer is, but this is coming from the inside wheel. There is no noticeable play on the wheels and there is no noise while driving straight or while driving and turning from side to side to load the bearings...

I'm going to try to see about getting some rear wheel bearings anyways and seeing if the fixes the issue. What sucks is I have a track event this upcoming weekend.

On another note: This passed week my wife was rear ended in our other car on the interstate and was pushed into the car in front of her (she's fine) so this just isn't my week...

NBoost

FWIW, I just replaced my fronts under the same conditions. I noticed them roaring initially when I balanced new tires on the car. I noticed the passenger front was much louder than the driver's front while spinning them up. No noticeable play in either side, or resistance of any kind. I could here it grinding at slow speeds in parking lots as well, turning and such.

Ordered a pair of Moog units and some Amsoil grease, replaced them both in about an hour, and they are silent now.

Once the old bearings were off the car, I identified definite play in them.

FrankB

iTrader: (4)

I was able to get a set of FM front hubs that were instock and hadn't made it to their website yet. They will be here Thursday.

I ordered the rear bearings(KOYO), hubs (DORMAN) and oil seals from NAPA and they should be in this afternoon!

Schuyler

iTrader: (1)

Let's hope so. Because I run a table pretty close to yours on pump gas only. lol

FrankB

iTrader: (4)

That table was before I changed anything for the meth. I add 2 degrees of timing on the cells from 200kpa up and 3100 RPM's up.

99mx5

iTrader: (16)

Frank, I have posted my tune in my build thread in case you want to compare timing maps.

FrankB

iTrader: (4)

I saw that, thanks. I actually meant to post a reply in your thread thanking you but I got side tracked and forgot. I took a look at your tables shortly after you posted it. I was curious as to why you don't run all the maps all the way out to your red line?

FrankB

iTrader: (4)

I went to pick up my rear hubs and bearings and the sent (1) hub that was made in Taiwan and (1) that was made in China. If you follow the the and on rear hubs in the racing section you'll understand. They're going to try and get me another Chinese hub tomorrow.

Mazdaspeeder

If anything, Arlington Mazda in VA has OEM SKF bearings for $36 a pop and ships quick. Hubs they are way expensive on however.

FrankB

iTrader: (4)

Thanks, yeah NAPA sent another two Taiwanese hubs. I ended up lucking out because O' Reillys had one Chinese hub on the shelf and he rears are done now. I should get the fronts in tonight and swapped out.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Did you repack the rear hubs or throwing them on as is?

FrankB

iTrader: (4)

Threw them on as is, with my time crunch I wasn't about to **** up a bearing trying to take it apart. I literally just got finished installing the fronts and the noise is gone now.(it was the fronts, go figure)

At least I have a little piece of mind knowing how old all of my bearings and hubs are.

The car is packed and ready to go for tomorrow. I have to wake up in 4 hours to head that way...