The Mazzder MX FIVE Build
03-02-2015, 02:49 PM
#21
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Open test menu:
Inj/Spk test:
Enable test mode:
Select whichever coil you want to test and press start:
Then test for spark. Press stop, switch to coil b and press start again. Do this for ABCD if you have sequential spark and A and B if you have batch spark.
If sequential then:
A = 1
B = 3
C = 4
D = 2
If batch:
A = 1 & 4
B = 3 & 2
Inj/Spk test:
Enable test mode:
Select whichever coil you want to test and press start:
Then test for spark. Press stop, switch to coil b and press start again. Do this for ABCD if you have sequential spark and A and B if you have batch spark.
If sequential then:
A = 1
B = 3
C = 4
D = 2
If batch:
A = 1 & 4
B = 3 & 2
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03-02-2015, 07:29 PM
#22
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Worst update ever: I attempted the test mode with the car off and I heard a puff from the first cylinder. I noticed my tach was not working so I KNEW that one of the wires I had soldered yesterday were touching or not connected well. So i proceeded to undo all I did yesterday with the connector to the main harness and now my soldering gun is not heating up...Just my luck. It definitely sounds like misfire when I run the car though. Also noticed my fan turns on when i hook up switched 12v and then moved the coolant/water temperature gauge and it turned off...then wiggled it more and it turned on so I know there is an issue there. Ahhh the disappointment. And that's why beer was invented.
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03-02-2015, 07:35 PM
#23
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Sounds like you got some weird stuff going on.
Fans turning on could be a broken thermoswitch on the front waterneck.
Wiggling temp gauge could be a wire you knocked off when installing cops.
Fans turning on could be a broken thermoswitch on the front waterneck.
Wiggling temp gauge could be a wire you knocked off when installing cops.
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03-03-2015, 05:40 AM
#24
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Yep thats why im going to rewire it and clean up the connections and verify it all this week. I think I mean to say the thermo switch which is what I wiggled. Good thing I am planning on a coolant reroute. Just need to finish buying parts...
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03-04-2015, 09:46 PM
#26
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A coworker helped me rewire the connector to the tse cop wiring harness and using heat shrink makes it clean and the car run super smooth. Its pnp with the exception of changing two dwell settings.
Now a little more tuning and injectors next up.
Sleepy kitty.
Thanks for the patience with how slow the build has been!
Now a little more tuning and injectors next up.
Sleepy kitty.
Thanks for the patience with how slow the build has been!
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03-14-2015, 08:45 PM
#27
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So terribly slow build going on here. The mill I work out is in the middle of an annual shutdown so I work about 15 hours and then have no miata time... sad face.
Was able to resolve idle tuning issue and now will be pulling and installing new injectors! Then tuning some more if that works!
Was able to resolve idle tuning issue and now will be pulling and installing new injectors! Then tuning some more if that works!
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03-20-2015, 08:09 AM
#28
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So quick update for those interested. I managed to remove my injectors yesterday and the seals were looking disintegrated to say the least. So now I need to get into tunerstudio and change my req_fuel and hopefully auyotune will resolve any VE table changes.
New shift **** for looks
New shift **** for looks
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03-29-2015, 10:38 AM
#29
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Got a turbosmart from a fellow mt.netter in the mail the other day!
Now I am working on my all-time favorite task of tuning the new EV14 injectors I purchased on here from someone. The install was as straight forward as it gets and now the fun part: Tuning.
It is very well spelled out on here what should be done initially so I thought I would reiterate it for some of the newer folks as a simple reference should people be installing them in the future that need some guidance/reference. I changed the required fuel after inputting the correct car data. Now it’s at 4.3 ms. My dead time is set to 1 ms as I experimented at idle with .95 and incremented up to 1.0 and that was the best for me. I was then getting the car running SUPER LEAN at idle like it would shoot up to like 18 and even 20 afr. So I did what anyone else would: I increased my VE idle values until my idle (mind you this is when the car is warm) got down to 14-15 afrs. My idle VE ran well and pretty stable at a 85 VE value at 29-38 fuel load %.
So today I plan on running WUE upon start up to see if that helps me richen up the idle.
Any other input would be great. I promise you this thread will get much more interesting when Lars and I proceed to install the MK turbo set up on it in the next 2-3 months.
The only thing left for me to buy in terms of parts collection is intercooler piping. I was thinking of just getting a setup from eBay and trying that, but after seeing Joe's mock up I thought it best to wait until I know exactly what tubing is needed.
And finally I have been reading reviews on radiators here (as I have collected all the parts for the reroute) and am quite intrigued as to what would be a solid recommendation from those of you with experience with a decent everyday/autox radiator. I understand heat transfer pretty darn good so no need to educate me there, just a general inquisition on reliability and experiences with radiators.
Was looking at the following:
CSF two row aluminum radiator http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda...t/61-1516.html
Koyorad Hyper V http://949racing.com/koyo-hyperv-radiator-miata-na.aspx
Suggestions are highly encouraged.
Now I am working on my all-time favorite task of tuning the new EV14 injectors I purchased on here from someone. The install was as straight forward as it gets and now the fun part: Tuning.
It is very well spelled out on here what should be done initially so I thought I would reiterate it for some of the newer folks as a simple reference should people be installing them in the future that need some guidance/reference. I changed the required fuel after inputting the correct car data. Now it’s at 4.3 ms. My dead time is set to 1 ms as I experimented at idle with .95 and incremented up to 1.0 and that was the best for me. I was then getting the car running SUPER LEAN at idle like it would shoot up to like 18 and even 20 afr. So I did what anyone else would: I increased my VE idle values until my idle (mind you this is when the car is warm) got down to 14-15 afrs. My idle VE ran well and pretty stable at a 85 VE value at 29-38 fuel load %.
So today I plan on running WUE upon start up to see if that helps me richen up the idle.
Any other input would be great. I promise you this thread will get much more interesting when Lars and I proceed to install the MK turbo set up on it in the next 2-3 months.
The only thing left for me to buy in terms of parts collection is intercooler piping. I was thinking of just getting a setup from eBay and trying that, but after seeing Joe's mock up I thought it best to wait until I know exactly what tubing is needed.
And finally I have been reading reviews on radiators here (as I have collected all the parts for the reroute) and am quite intrigued as to what would be a solid recommendation from those of you with experience with a decent everyday/autox radiator. I understand heat transfer pretty darn good so no need to educate me there, just a general inquisition on reliability and experiences with radiators.
Was looking at the following:
CSF two row aluminum radiator http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda...t/61-1516.html
Koyorad Hyper V http://949racing.com/koyo-hyperv-radiator-miata-na.aspx
Suggestions are highly encouraged.
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03-30-2015, 07:25 AM
#30
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Brief update: I ran some WUE yesterday and I tried running VEAL at idle to see if it would mess with my VE #s and it raised them up from 87 at 29kPa to 96 kPa. So I think I am going to up my req_fuel so that richens it up and then re-scale my VE table accordingly.
My current challenge is that the car runs hunts and then just goes super lean at idle during a hot start. Saw a couple of threads on what to adjust, but I will just keep tinkering with it as much as possible to get to where I need to be.
My current challenge is that the car runs hunts and then just goes super lean at idle during a hot start. Saw a couple of threads on what to adjust, but I will just keep tinkering with it as much as possible to get to where I need to be.
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04-01-2015, 07:22 AM
#31
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Good news: For those who will be running EV14s I was able to tune these suckers a little more and got my idle stable. Some more work needs to be done on some hot starts, but it settles down very well when warm.
My car did not like a dead time anything less than or greater than 1 ms.
I upped my required fuel to 5.0 ms and then rescaled the entire VE table except my idle zone by 61%. So I basically multiplied it by 1.61.
This calculation is as follows:
Original req fuel before injector upgrade: 12.8.
(12.8-5.0)/12.8 = .609~=.61
Also make sure you do some WUE each time you start the car cold to get that going well for you. Other than that I did not mess with other settings in the car.
I hope this helps people who are going to be running EV14s in the future to get a ball park of what to expect. I am a novice/noob so I did not do more than this and am now leaving the fine tuning of my VE table to VEAL.
My car did not like a dead time anything less than or greater than 1 ms.
I upped my required fuel to 5.0 ms and then rescaled the entire VE table except my idle zone by 61%. So I basically multiplied it by 1.61.
This calculation is as follows:
Original req fuel before injector upgrade: 12.8.
(12.8-5.0)/12.8 = .609~=.61
Also make sure you do some WUE each time you start the car cold to get that going well for you. Other than that I did not mess with other settings in the car.
I hope this helps people who are going to be running EV14s in the future to get a ball park of what to expect. I am a novice/noob so I did not do more than this and am now leaving the fine tuning of my VE table to VEAL.
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04-13-2015, 07:38 PM
#32
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It has been 12 days since my last update and I have basically tore this car down. I have removed my belts and am working towards changing the timing belt, ac, and alternator belt as well, installing FM stage 1 clutch, coolant reroute, painting valve cover, replacing valve cover gasket, some touch up paint inside of car and anything else I can't remember to get this thing prepped for shuiend's MK turbo.
Some pictures for your viewing pleasure:
Used 1.8 Flywheel that I will be getting machined and hopefully back in my hands at the end of the week or next week at the latest.
Condition of transmission
Found an Exedy clutch in there in pretty good condition.
Seems like cam seal has been or leaked at one point in time.
Crank seal that has DEFINITELY been leaking
As she sits now.
Valve cover removed...Yucky!
Some pictures for your viewing pleasure:
Used 1.8 Flywheel that I will be getting machined and hopefully back in my hands at the end of the week or next week at the latest.
Condition of transmission
Found an Exedy clutch in there in pretty good condition.
Seems like cam seal has been or leaked at one point in time.
Crank seal that has DEFINITELY been leaking
As she sits now.
Valve cover removed...Yucky!
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04-13-2015, 08:26 PM
#33
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EDIT: And to back up my argument, here is the Charleston Miata club: Home
Just sayin', it's a Miata. Not a Porsche 911GT3.
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04-13-2015, 09:10 PM
#34
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Well there were only 12420 Miata's built in 1990 in UC white. I don't see where you are trying to direct me, but it is definitely possible that this is or is not one of the first. I was just told by the third owner that the gentleman who had it got it from a man who owned a shop in summerville sc and I have scanned documents from the maintenance history dating back to 1995. So its very possible that this in fact was one of the first. No matter though. I appreciate you reading my build though!
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04-19-2015, 08:04 PM
#35
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Actual Progress
Was able to make some legit progress this weekend in preparation for some auto cross and mk Turbo.
I managed to change the water pump, cam and crank seals, cas o ring, all of which were leaking like hell, alternator belt, timing belt, valve cover gasket, painted valve cover, coolant reroute and NEW RADIATOR from csf, and some other stuff I'm forgetting. Pics for your entertainment.
My latest endeavor:tablet in car replacing radio and such
Coolant reroute pic
Coolant reroute pic
Before
Final product
I managed to change the water pump, cam and crank seals, cas o ring, all of which were leaking like hell, alternator belt, timing belt, valve cover gasket, painted valve cover, coolant reroute and NEW RADIATOR from csf, and some other stuff I'm forgetting. Pics for your entertainment.
My latest endeavor:tablet in car replacing radio and such
Coolant reroute pic
Coolant reroute pic
Before
Final product
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04-25-2015, 01:14 PM
#36
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More baby steps
So I made some baby steps this weekend and today. Was able to dremel the hell out of the tombstone to relocate the A/C. Which by the way I haven't the slightest idea if it will fit as I want it to. Going to have to dremel some more and figure out a good mounting solution.
I also managed to get a second hand NRG steering wheel and so I fit it up and it looks MUCH better than stock.
I also managed to get a second hand NRG steering wheel and so I fit it up and it looks MUCH better than stock.
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05-23-2015, 11:03 PM
#37
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The Mazzder MX FIVE Build
So it's been I while since I updated. I got the clutch installed and now I need to wear it in. A couple of things came up when I first drove the car:
1. Afr gauge needs to be recalibrated as it's reading differently from what the ecu is. 2. Boost gauge stopped reading...might be a hole in the flimsy line I got from autometer.
3. I need to mount my amp in the trunk
4. the center console needs some work
5. Having huge heat soaking issues so I might apply some MLT or whatever corrections and make a temporary cold air intake of sorts that puts the GM IAT sensor in it to prevent all of the engine heat to soak it.
6. Decide on tires for the car.
Pics for fun.
1. Afr gauge needs to be recalibrated as it's reading differently from what the ecu is. 2. Boost gauge stopped reading...might be a hole in the flimsy line I got from autometer.
3. I need to mount my amp in the trunk
4. the center console needs some work
5. Having huge heat soaking issues so I might apply some MLT or whatever corrections and make a temporary cold air intake of sorts that puts the GM IAT sensor in it to prevent all of the engine heat to soak it.
6. Decide on tires for the car.
Pics for fun.
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07-18-2015, 05:25 PM
#40
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Alright everyone it has been a long time since I have posted. I got a lot of work done on my car and am almost ready to get the mkturbo awesome feeling that most have been experiencing. I am struggling with one variable though: my idle. I have reached out to some people with advice based on the symptoms I am experiencing so no luck.
I need some forum help to make dreams come true.
please forgive the length of this write up as I want to ensure I cover everything here to give you all enough information.
Issues:
1) Idle is very high, approximately 2000 rpm and mayyybe settles to 1850 and fluctuates +/- 100 rpms.
2) AFR calculated value in tunerstudio is reading .5-1 higher than what the afr gauge is reading in car
Steps taken to alleviate issues:
To address 1), I suspected I had a vacuum leak so I revisited the tubing to the vacuum/boost gauge I have and got that sorted out so now my vac/boost gauge is working.
I removed the IACV and cleaned with throttle/ air intake cleaner and same with the throttle body. Reinstalled with gasket maker instead of o ring ( new one on the way) just as a temporary solution which produced the same results.
To address 2) I attempted to change the voltages in the calibrate afr table menu and to no avail.
I verified the wires were connected correctly. I recalibrated the innvoate mtx l. Same issues. I even redid the grounding. Same issues.
Some of the things that were recommeded to me: go to closed loop tuning and learn to tune the idle that way. I didn't do this yet as I asked myself: "If open loop tuning worked before why do I need to change?"
Some variables that could influence this issue: I installed an amp into the car and wired that up. I wonder if this is could be putting a lot of electrical strain on the system...
Redid timing belt and set timing. I verified that and it checked out.
Are there any other recommendations feedback someone could provide?
I have attached files for reference. To be noted in the video: afr readout in tunerstudio jumps like hell but is ok on afr gauge. It is quite rich I know, BUT on other startups it has stayed a consistent 14.3 afr (what it did before this mess) and the idle was around 1200 - 1400 rpm.
Please help. :(
I need some forum help to make dreams come true.
please forgive the length of this write up as I want to ensure I cover everything here to give you all enough information.
Issues:
1) Idle is very high, approximately 2000 rpm and mayyybe settles to 1850 and fluctuates +/- 100 rpms.
2) AFR calculated value in tunerstudio is reading .5-1 higher than what the afr gauge is reading in car
Steps taken to alleviate issues:
To address 1), I suspected I had a vacuum leak so I revisited the tubing to the vacuum/boost gauge I have and got that sorted out so now my vac/boost gauge is working.
I removed the IACV and cleaned with throttle/ air intake cleaner and same with the throttle body. Reinstalled with gasket maker instead of o ring ( new one on the way) just as a temporary solution which produced the same results.
To address 2) I attempted to change the voltages in the calibrate afr table menu and to no avail.
I verified the wires were connected correctly. I recalibrated the innvoate mtx l. Same issues. I even redid the grounding. Same issues.
Some of the things that were recommeded to me: go to closed loop tuning and learn to tune the idle that way. I didn't do this yet as I asked myself: "If open loop tuning worked before why do I need to change?"
Some variables that could influence this issue: I installed an amp into the car and wired that up. I wonder if this is could be putting a lot of electrical strain on the system...
Redid timing belt and set timing. I verified that and it checked out.
Are there any other recommendations feedback someone could provide?
I have attached files for reference. To be noted in the video: afr readout in tunerstudio jumps like hell but is ok on afr gauge. It is quite rich I know, BUT on other startups it has stayed a consistent 14.3 afr (what it did before this mess) and the idle was around 1200 - 1400 rpm.
Please help. :(
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