When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am using this... I have my small fan controlled by MS through a standard relay. It comes on at 220 degrees or if my AC compressor is on. My big fan is PWM controlled by the Derale fan controller and starts coming on (just barely spinning) about 170 degrees. It doesn't start moving any serious air until 190 or so.
I also have the sensor that threads into a coolant source and had to put a bunch of in-line resistors to (bias resistors I guess) that brings the usable range of the sensor in line with what will control the Derale. Also, the Derale is forced into 60% mode if the coolant gets to 205 degrees by MS. This is basically a fail safe in case the sensor fails.
(I see you mention this specifically... I am just coming back to this thread and didn't read completely)
I am using this... I have my small fan controlled by MS through a standard relay. It comes on at 220 degrees or if my AC compressor is on. My big fan is PWM controlled by the Derale fan controller and starts coming on (just barely spinning) about 170 degrees. It doesn't start moving any serious air until 190 or so.
I also have the sensor that threads into a coolant source and had to put a bunch of in-line resistors to (bias resistors I guess) that brings the usable range of the sensor in line with what will control the Derale. Also, the Derale is forced into 60% mode if the coolant gets to 205 degrees by MS. This is basically a fail safe in case the sensor fails.
(I see you mention this specifically... I am just coming back to this thread and didn't read completely)
That's a pretty nice lookin' module, especially for the price. I probably would've gone that direction if I knew about it, most of the PWM controllers I found were in the $300-$400 range. They just need to use actual coolant temp rather than the sketchy radiator clamp. I like your idea of just fooling a real coolant sensor.
I am using this... I have my small fan controlled by MS through a standard relay. It comes on at 220 degrees or if my AC compressor is on. My big fan is PWM controlled by the Derale fan controller and starts coming on (just barely spinning) about 170 degrees. It doesn't start moving any serious air until 190 or so.
I also have the sensor that threads into a coolant source and had to put a bunch of in-line resistors to (bias resistors I guess) that brings the usable range of the sensor in line with what will control the Derale. Also, the Derale is forced into 60% mode if the coolant gets to 205 degrees by MS. This is basically a fail safe in case the sensor fails.
(I see you mention this specifically... I am just coming back to this thread and didn't read completely)
How do you like the derale unit. Do you have more details on the resistors in line to cheat the sensor. I really do like the derale unit i just hate the sensor and would much rather it pick the temp signal up off the MS3X
As for the other setup i could run the above wiring schematic with a 3min time delay relay that would still power the fan.
When you guy run a separate fan relay where are you getting your power source. Are you running a wire all the way to the battery or pulling off the starter or something?
IF you go with a two speed relay- Volvo has what you need. I use the stock Volvo fan relay setups (got two fans & relay setups for $35 at pull-a-part) on two of my cars for two stage speed control. One is with the stock Volvo/Siemens 3000cfm fan (embedded resistor) run as in a stock Volvo and the other (on the Miata) is using a single speed Spal 16" 2600cfm fan to which I've added a resistor for low speed. I never bothered with pwm control for the speeds because the startup load doesn't kill the idle on either car. But then we're not at nearly the same load.
Volvo relay with two speed inputs. Low goes to an embedded resistor in the Siemens fan. Resistor added to Miata/Spal circuit to make it a two speed. Simple and it works, though not elegant like pwm. There are loads of high pwm motor controls on amazon.
How do you like the derale unit. Do you have more details on the resistors in line to cheat the sensor. I really do like the derale unit i just hate the sensor and would much rather it pick the temp signal up off the MS3X
Sorry I didn't reply until now. So - basically what I did was buy the Derale 16750 replacement sensor. It threads into any coolant port that is the correct size. However, it's not meant to be used with the derale device shown above so what I did (I think) is build a bias resistor for it. How I did this was get both the included sensor and the replacement sensor and set them in a tub of ice water. I measured the resistance.
I then filled a pot with water and boiled it. I measured the resistance on both sensors at boiling point. I also measured the resistance across the range as well, paying specific attention to the 170-200 degree range. What was most important to me, was that at 170-200 degrees the resistance on my new probe was approximately the same as the original probe. From there, I figured out what resistance I would need to add to the replacement probe to make it similar to the original.
Got the new splitter mounted up and converted the rear to newer sport brakes. This week I have seat brackets showing up and HP+ pads for the rear. Next week hopefully ill have some singular 3" brake ducts arrive and I will be picking up the block from the machine shop on Monday.
The shop line bored the crank, balanced the crank and rods, re decked the block because the first shop sucked, and they set all my oil clearances at .0025 for rods and mains.
Also ignore the mess in the garage I reorganized last weekend
Because I have a major disease called race car I have made a decision and will be a test mule for a special set of hot side parts that I know you guys will like. Not going to say just what yet but psyber_optix has wanted to see it and been posting about it a bit lately.
if you can guess the 2 hot side parts you get a case of beer when we meet.
Because I have a major disease called race car I have made a decision and will be a test mule for a special set of hot side parts that I know you guys will like. Not going to say just what yet but psyber_optix has wanted to see it and been posting about it a bit lately.
if you can guess the 2 hot side parts you get a case of beer when we meet.
Yea yea. I knew I should have but a disclaimer on that pic. I have my set of RS4's in a closet in the guest room of the house since its 30-50°F here lately. That tire just happened to be on the top of the stack and I had more room on that side. The tire is now safe in the closet and will go back to its appropriate home in spring.
After talking to Matt at hella fab. The car will see a twin scroll efr 7163 with one of his fancy manifolds. It'll be the first he has done for a twin scroll miata.
I'm going to finish all my brake parts then I'll be ordering the turbo and shipping to Matt to mock up
Last edited by matrussell122; 06-29-2018 at 05:04 PM.
After talking to Matt at hella fab. The car will see a twin scroll efr 7163 with one of his fancy manifolds. It'll be the first he has done for a twin scroll miata.
I'm going to finish all my brake parts then I'll be ordering the churbo and shipping to Matt to mock up
It will be the first twin scroll EFR (with internal WG) I have done for a Miata.
Pretty excited to build it. Having no A/C or P/S really helps on my end for these big turbos. The IWG actuator really limits where you can put them if your like me and recognize the benefits of having it low mounted and not mid or top mounted.
It will be the first twin scroll EFR (with internal WG) I have done for a Miata.
Pretty excited to build it. Having no A/C or P/S really helps on my end for these big turbos. The IWG actuator really limits where you can put them if your like me and recognize the benefits of having it low mounted and not mid or top mounted.
Im like you and like low mount. Makes so many other things easier. Im pretty stoked about it, I get all excited talking about it. Im going to finish up buying all my big brake parts then around early April ill order up the turbo. Found one for $1620 shipped to my door
After talking to Matt at hella fab. The car will see a twin scroll efr 7163 with one of his fancy manifolds. It'll be the first he has done for a twin scroll miata.
I'm going to finish all my brake parts then I'll be ordering the churbo and shipping to Matt to mock up
01-16-2018, 02:43 PM
0
