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Two hardtops! First world problems. I will be selling my existing hardtop and keeping the one that came with this car, as it is cosmetically better in a minor sense.
This transmission has the same "crunch" or notch going into second that my original trans (which I still have and is currently connected to my beautiful motor put together by Curly) had. Leads me to believe it's not an indicator of significant wear on early 6 speeds, rather it's just a fact of life with this generation Aisin transmissions.
I'm currently pricing out garage doors for my 8'x9' opening....
Do I even want to know how much that overhead door model was? I want something insulated so I'm looking at the model 625.
We have a local distributor... Did they give quick estimates?
It looks like the cheesy bubble wrap insulated model from overheaddoorsdirect is going to be $1500 before freight (with the roll-up motor).
They are not inexpensive. The "good" news is that you'll still be in a four digit price.
This one is the 625. RSX right hand drive wall mount, two photo eyes, and remotes. I believe my opening is 8x7. I don't know if their prices are different in different regions but figure on 4x the cost of the cheesy door. My contractor and all of his guys were floored by it, though. They loved it. "Dude, your door, that thing is awesome!" I have all of my ceiling space available. I'd do it again, definitely.
Got car stuff done today!
Installed the seats, replaced the pax hardtop side latch with a rennenmetal bracket because the Tillett pax seat prevents latch opening and closure, and replaced the stock muffler with my Roadstersport 3. Not as much of a difference as I thought there would be, but I didn't swap the midpipe yet. The plug in the rear O2 sensor bung is rusted in good and tight. I'll have to put my Enthuza on to wake up the exhaust.
I had forgotten how fantastically painful removing that stock muffler is. I'm not sure it had ever been off. I got to use my awesome $30 impact gun that I got at my sons' high school fundraiser auction to remove the muffler nuts. My electric Bosch isn't super powerful, but it didn't touch them. This thing spun them right off.
Thanks Alex. You should stop by and check it out sometime and have a beer.
I see what you did there. But there are more creative ways:
Q: why would the military have been a poor life choice for Mobius?
A: Because he keeps going AWOL!
Q: If Mobius smoked, what would his preferred cigarette brand be?
A: Wallboro Lights!
Q: What's the favorite fish of Mobius?
A: Walleyed Pike!
I enjoy speed, and I like the hobby/engineering aspect of doing things to a car in pursuit of speed. Bringing the vehicle home intact will always be the #1 priority. I will still collect and analyze data, because I'm wired that way and I like knowing things for the sake of knowing things. But I have no, since this is mt.net this is probably the best way to put it, I have no laptime *****. And no laptime ego to defend.
Last edited by Mobius; 05-25-2019 at 11:54 PM.
Reason: spelling
Finally had time to work on the car. Rear carpet and trim and soft top are out for roll bar and fuel pump. Got the fuel pump relay upgrade wired in, but it's not spinning up the pump at key on.
New relay is wired to the battery.
Harness red/blue wired to the blue trigger wire of the new relay
Red power from relay wired to red/blue pin on pump connector
pump connector ground connected to drivers seat ground.
I have not yet connected the red/white and red/blue wires at the fuel pump relay.
Where’s your coil ground? Relay needs 4 pins to work, you mentioned three and a ground for the pump
Hmm. My instructions don't mention this. I have verified that +12v is still getting through the harness at key on, so the blue trigger wire is hot. If I need to add a ground to the relay, which remaining pin slot do I use?
To summarize wiring as of right now:
harness blue/red -> blue trigger wire on 85
red relay power wire w/fuse to battery (30)
30 --> is jumpered to 86 (as came in box)
pink wire (87) to fuel pump power pin
fuel pump grounded to chassis as described in instructions
Just verified no power getting to the pump at the pump connector. Which we assumed, but good to check.
According to youtube my blue trigger wire should be 86, not 85. 85 should be coil ground. Will pursue this tomorrow, removing jumper wire from always +12v 30 to 86. If this works will relay to instruction writer.
But by my count, I still need 3 power wires, plus a ground, not 2 plus a ground: +12v power to relay itself, that is switched to +12v power feed to pump, when +12v trigger wire is lit by the car. That's 3 power wires, 1 ground wire, no waiting.
85/86 are interchangeable. I meant you had three power inputs, and a power output. You need 2 power inputs, a ground, and the power output. The wire that loops from the battery to 85 or 86 or whatever it is needs to go to ground. Not sure if that’s what you just said or not.
Man this is a PITA. I have verified relay works, and works when the harness blue/red wire gives it +12v. Wired as follows:
harness blue/red -> blue trigger wire on 85 red relay power wire w/fuse to battery (30) ground -> 86 pink wire (87) to fuel pump power pin
I have verified that when I put +12v onto blue/red at the stock fuel pump relay connector the new relay triggers.
However, at that stock fuel pump relay connector, I'm not seeing +12v on the red/white wire, which should be hot at key on. So now I'm thinking my main relay has died, which would be ironic since the whole point of this exercise is to keep the main relay from dying.
Replaced the main relay, no change. Gave up and made dinner for the family.
I have the mellens.net wiring diagrams I am supposed to see 12v at key on at the red/white wire of the OEM fuel pump relay connector, correct? Which then triggers oem relay to send +12v down the blue/red wire to the fuel pump.
Replaced the main relay, no change. Gave up and made dinner for the family.
I have the mellens.net wiring diagrams I am supposed to see 12v at key on at the red/white wire of the OEM fuel pump relay connector, correct? Which then triggers oem relay to send +12v down the blue/red wire to the fuel pump.
That's not how the rewire kit is supposed to work. The relay coil gets +12V through the little jumper. The blue/red wire that was formerly the output of the OEM relay is repurposed as a trigger wire to carry the switched ground signal to the new relay. The purpose of jumping the wires at the OEM relay location is literally to just reuse the output wire of the relay in lieu of running a new wire; the switched ground that goes to the OEM relay coil is now routed through the reused wire. The OEM fuel pump relay does not need to switch at all and should not even be present to turn on the new FP relay if it is wired like this!
EDIT: I talked out my *** and got the colors mixed up (now fixed) with some random other year. NB2 is different with immobilizer, follow the instructions. But what I wrote above still explains the gist of how it works, which doesn’t seem to line up with what you’re expecting.
There are two versions of the rewire kit. The first version is what the vast majority of people have, and it bypasses the factory relay. By doing this, the ECU is supposed to ground the blue wire on the new relay harness. Some applications (90-93 and some other odd car/ECU combinations) didn't appreciate that method, so the 2nd version retains the factory relay and uses it to send trigger +12v to the new relay. It should work with everything.
Richard has the first version, and his email contains the instructions for the first version. He should use those
04-06-2019, 03:13 AM
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