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It was a package deal. Used UL's, new Rivals. Therefore my guidelines were:
1) Price (cause I'm cheap, except when I'm not)
2) Fit (should fit with no sheet metal mods, as I understand it)
3) Max tire for a given rim (That's the grip and comfort stuff)
Sensible rule of thumb seems to be Rim = Tread when buying new. Max tread for wheel size if you already have the rims.
Thinking that by the time I get launch control all set up with the 195mm ZII's, these tires will make it un-necessary.
It was a package deal. Used UL's, new Rivals. Therefore my guidelines were:
1) Price (cause I'm cheap, except when I'm not)
2) Fit (should fit with no sheet metal mods, as I understand it)
3) Max tire for a given rim (That's the grip and comfort stuff)
Sensible rule of thumb seems to be Rim = Tread when buying new. Max tread for wheel size if you already have the rims.
Thinking that by the time I get launch control all set up with the 195mm ZII's, these tires will make it un-necessary.
You're spot on. If you've already got 8's, or have a great deal available, nothing wrong with putting 225's on them as long as you're willing to trade a bit of response for more grip and a bit more comfort.
he's worse than you used to be, derailing literally every other thread with n00b posts and "suggestions" using info he's never ever even tried or applied
years ago I woulda got all mad and brought the pain, but now #aintcare
he's worse than you used to be, derailing literally every other thread with n00b posts and "suggestions" using info he's never ever even tried or applied
years ago I woulda got all mad and brought the pain, but now #aintcare
I'm getting old
...carry on
I have disappointed our feline overlords.
Also if Aidan was remotely this bad... it gives me hope.
I'm just now bringing myself up to speed with what changes you've made. How comfortable are you continuing at that power level on a regular basis? Particularly with reference to your connecting rods
I'm just now bringing myself up to speed with what changes you've made. How comfortable are you continuing at that power level on a regular basis? Particularly with reference to your connecting rods
See post 113. 18 is pretty conservative, generally. Others would say, sure, run up to 250ft-lbs.
My goal for some time has been to target 216ft-lbs at about 3700 RPM. That's pretty much where I am per VD. At higher RPM, 220-225 does not bother me. I'm more concerned with oil pump than rods at this level. That is why I drop the boost past 6500 RPM.
Also, plan has always been to track at Waste Gate only, which is 50 HP lower. I will likely change Rev Limit to 6700 vs street 7200. No oil cooler.
For Daily, I don't wind it out too often, but plan to run to red-line if I do try it on the drag-strip. Hence working on launch control. Drag will be Launch with retard and boost limit in first gear (1.8 seconds). Normal shift 1-2 to match RPM well. Flat Shift 2-3 because that is smooth and holds MAP to 130kPa. Likely Flat Shift 3-4.
Manifold ground and re-welded, then relief cuts added. The flange on #4 port was pulled up about 1/16", even before we re-welded. I milled the flange flat.
Put in the Morimoto D2S kit. Wonderful. Wonderful. Wonderful.
Added ducting that sealed the front end and ran 2" of bypass beneath the I/C. Moved the P/S cooler beneath the I/C in part of that space.
Added a 16 row oil cooler above the I/C, hanging from angle brackets bolted to the top frame member, using the weldnuts that the horn mounted to (and it's mirror one). Bought the kit from TSE with T//Stat plate. I ground out space in the IM support so it can still be used with stock size oil filters. A bit more grinding may allow for the larger ones. CLT temps never above 205*F now whereas before I would have to sometimes turn off A/C or ease off at 235*F. Standard T/Stat.
Mounted the 6UL's and Rivals. Wonderful again.
Put in SST brake lines, ATE 200 fluid, and PFC PF11 brake pads. I am using them on the street (yes dust), and the bite well, can lock up the Rivals, no squeal.
Mounted Tow hooks. Added bung for Dyno O2 sensor. Moved oil pressure switch to the head (never cycles off while engine is running), and replaced it with a Autometer Sender. Drilled and tapped oil drain plug and installed an Autometer oil temp sender. Moved BOV to a better location (180* other side of charge pipe).
Left to do:
Install oil pressure and temp gauges, some MS run lights and switches.
Heat shield
Cold air baffle
Then I should be ready for track or drag strip.
Polish: Paint roll bar and clean up padding, complete sound deadening, install new top, Re-corner-weight.
Some Pics:
IM support opened for filter after adapter plate for oil cooler.
Since the last fix on the manifold, I have noticed (2) things:
1) Seemingly more turbine whine (or a squealy leak??)
2) The boost creep is gone. Earlier I had some bad boost creep so I ported the waste gate, but there was still a little bit. Now, with no EBC, boost is rock solid all the way up to redline.
So, out of curiosity, I pulled the downpipe and checked the turbine, the divider we put into the outlet, the downpipe, and even ran a cheap camera to the CAT. Nothing seems amiss, which is good news.
On other news, I'm going to go to street Hawks and the 195mm Dunlops for the winter. Saving the PFC's and G-Force for summer and hopefully some track time.
Next week I should have some pictures of the heat shield install along with oil temp and pressure gauges.
The Request:
I pulled my BKR6ES plugs and replaced them with BKR7E, gapped to 0.035". Not sure I really needed to go cooler, but I must have thought so when I bought them. Maybe because I'm running the EBC now?
So, on the old plugs (20k miles), there are some deposits on one side but not so much on the other. And on the cleaner side, some sparkly stuff, that I don't think is Al from detonation, but I'm ignorant.
Would someone be willing to look at my old plugs and analyze them, if I were to send them to you? That's the question.
05-02-2017, 03:19 PM
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