kaisersoze

iTrader: (8)

So after discussion with my mechanic I think I will have to pull the engine and go through it. The low oil pressure gives me no confidence of the ability of this build to stand up to extended WOT periods.
We'll mainly check the bearing clearances, check the oil pump/bypass. the pickup, check the head etc
rebuilding the motor will give me a chance to do some stuff I didnt do the first time like WPC treatment of some stuff, REM on the crank journals I don't know.
I am still planning on adding a full dry sump system from Anderson Race engineering.
Hopefully the NB radiator from Trackspeed will be available soon
Lastly, my tuner really hates the Hydra 2.7 so far. He asked me if I would switch to an AEM today

dustinb

I agree on the Hydra. I think it's garbage compared to the AEM.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Wait, what is your oil pressure issue? How much pressure are you seeing at idle? How much at redline?

miata2fast

iTrader: (2)

If the motor was built like most race motors, both main and rod journals would be looser than stock. This would give you the low oil pressure issues. That has been a problem as long as people have been building race motors.

You should at least consider discussing the issue with Boundary Engineering before making a rash decision and spending that kind of doe on a dry sump.

When I talked to Boundary, they suggested that I know exactly what my rod and main journal clearances were, and then they would know how much volume and pressure to correctly set up the oil pump. You may just need to pull the pump, and have it shimmed to the correct volume.

Sounds to me that the engine builder built the motor loose like it should be, and a simple oil pump adjustment is all it needs. I doubt seriously that there is a problem with the motor. I hate to see you throw money away unnecessarily.

kaisersoze

iTrader: (8)

Well after a long year the beast finally runs.
Short block was rebuilt with proper bearing clearances and it now has great oil pressure.
Had some problems with local miata shop and the integral cams were damaged and are now being repaired for $460.
So the car has stock cams in it for now.
this is one of the plots from the intial tune-the ID 1000s actually idle pretty nice
The intial tune was pretty conservative. The final intial tune made 342hp but for some reason I don't have that plot on my jump drive. at this tune level car is still quite quick.
Inital plan is put a few miles on the car and then come back and retune(maybe with repaired integral cams) with a race gas tune as well. Still considering whether to switch to E85 it's just that any stations are so far from my house that it makes it impractical
Still a few odds and ends to finish up-install trackspeed front rotors, trackspeed NB radiator when available then do some ducting and then hopefully finished.

jtothawhat

iTrader: (7)

Your boost be creepin' son. If you do decide on E85 I have a feeling ID1000's won't be enough depending on how much boost you plan on running, but then again you'd want to take advantage of E85 and run all of the boost at least 50 psi.

Also, I agree with your tuner on Hydra...mine laughed when I mentioned Hydra and said it's the biggest POS and a pain to tune. Go AEM you won't regret it.

pdexta

iTrader: (17)

342hp on 14psi, is very nice. Definitely makes you wonder what 20psi is going to be like...

kaisersoze

iTrader: (8)

Got my Trackspeed radiator today. Very nice piece welds look really good. Looks pretty thick. I'll try to get it mounted and get some pictures soon!

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

Not much much more. A 1.6 I tuned made 327hp at 14psi and 407hp at 25psi. GT3076, nice header, cams, MS2.

kaisersoze

iTrader: (8)

That's ok, I was never going for an all out horsepower monster. I was shooting for about 350whp. Mostly just wanted to make it a lot of fun and reasonably reliable to track occasionally. I doubt I am a good enough driver to put 500whp to the ground at 10/10ths anyway.
E85 would be great for some extra HP but no one carries it near my house so until then I will just stick with pump gas. Of course there is always the bug to get more horsepower and while I am intrigued by the GTX turbos, I'll probably just put the money in some suspension(Xida 2ways?) or aero mods maybe strip and cage it.
I still haven't decided if I am going to put the integral cams in it or just swap to VVT head and call it done.
For now I just want to drive the thing and it still needs a corner balance and alignment.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Are you curious at all why you're missing 75+ft.lbs of torque at 4500rpm?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

(Posting from my phone.)

You can see it by the boost plot..it would be making **** tons more mid range if the boost at spool up matched that of redline

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

He's making 14psi at 4500 scott and just 210 ftlb with a 3071. IIRC I made about 230torques at the wheels at that rpm with the same exhaust mani, a much smaller IWG turbo (2560) and worse cyl. head. Summin's not right. He did say that was the pre tuned plot though.

kaisersoze

iTrader: (8)

I don't have the final plot from the initial day of tuning. The torque curve was somewhat better, I think it was around 225-230 at 4K. There is still some more tuning to be done before I start driving it. They were also playing with some of the 2.7 Hydra features and this is the first car with the 2.7 they have tuned. I'll post an updated dyno plot from the next session(I also wasn't there when they did the intial tuning).
Honestly I was just excited that the car actually runs-has good oil pressure and doesnt appear to leak any fluids to be too concerned about numbers right now. I'm sure there will be plenty of things left to work out prior to getting anything like the best performance out the car.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Hmm I was at 330tq@ 400hp. Same turbo. Crappier manifold.

Me no understand how the difference can be that big.