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Old Jan 19, 2017 | 08:01 AM
  #41  
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I don't think MS1 MAF support is very good, if it works at all. An IAT sensor is required even if you have a MAF I believe. It won't use the built in one. You really need to get your MAP signal figured out and working.

​​​​​​​The last time I actually played with an MS1 was about 7 years ago. So a lot of my recommendations are based off what little I remember of that time.
Old Jan 19, 2017 | 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by shuiend
I don't think MS1 MAF support is very good, if it works at all. An IAT sensor is required even if you have a MAF I believe. It won't use the built in one. You really need to get your MAP signal figured out and working.

The last time I actually played with an MS1 was about 7 years ago. So a lot of my recommendations are based off what little I remember of that time.
Okay, thanks. I'll order the sensor but wait till I get the MAP figured out then delete the MAF. Since I haven't deleted it, I can plug in the stock ECU and drive it while I work on it. Beautiful haha.
Old Jan 19, 2017 | 08:24 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by shuiend
I don't think MS1 MAF support is very good, if it works at all. An IAT sensor is required even if you have a MAF I believe. It won't use the built in one. You really need to get your MAP signal figured out and working.

The last time I actually played with an MS1 was about 7 years ago. So a lot of my recommendations are based off what little I remember of that time.

Out of curiosity, I have a 5/32 ID vacuum line. Should that effect it at all?
Old Jan 19, 2017 | 08:25 AM
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Size of line or length should have no large effect.

You can leave the MAF hooked up, and still use the MAP sensor. You just need to plug the MAP line when you swap back to the stock ecu.
Old Jan 19, 2017 | 08:29 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by shuiend
Size of line or length should have no large effect.

You can leave the MAF hooked up, and still use the MAP sensor. You just need to plug the MAP line when you swap back to the stock ecu.
yeah I leave it on the megasquirt port. Right now I do not have a passenger seat.
Old Jan 19, 2017 | 02:28 PM
  #46  
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Do I have to go through this whole thing? If so I guess I need to get a 32 bit as well. I swear this thing just doesn't want to ever work for me😂
Old Jan 19, 2017 | 02:49 PM
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**** if I remember. I do know that you must unplug your coil pack before you flash, or else you can burn them up.
Old Jan 20, 2017 | 09:16 AM
  #48  
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Well it'll push my build back, but at this point I'm ready to call it and sell the megasquirt and save up for a MS2. Can't really call it a budget build after that either. I can't build it, so I'm not worried about spending more than $500. Unless anyone lives in Georgia or near here. What do y'all think?
Old Jan 20, 2017 | 10:29 AM
  #49  
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Skip the MS2, save up. Buy an MS3. Cheeping out on ECU just is not worth it. Braineack sells MS3X's for $800 and they are a steal at that price.
Old Jan 20, 2017 | 10:34 AM
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I said check firmware like 3 times and only now you try it? lol

anyways, I agree with Lars: just get a proper unit, this one seems to be hosed. (if reloading firmware doesn't fix your problems)
Old Jan 20, 2017 | 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by 18psi
I said check firmware like 3 times and only now you try it? lol

anyways, I agree with Lars: just get a proper unit, this one seems to be hosed. (if reloading firmware doesn't fix your problems)
Well I think the firmware issue he is having is that he is now using a 64bit OS and I am not sure that they have a app to write the firmware on a 64bit OS.


If he wants to be really cheap. He can learn to solder. Then follow the nice directions that Braineack has made at TruboKitty.com and build one himself.
Old Jan 20, 2017 | 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by shuiend
Well I think the firmware issue he is having is that he is now using a 64bit OS and I am not sure that they have a app to write the firmware on a 64bit OS.


If he wants to be really cheap. He can learn to solder. Then follow the nice directions that Braineack has made at TruboKitty.com and build one himself.

I know how to solder. That's why I'm not worried about buying a different unit.
Old Jan 20, 2017 | 10:49 AM
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Build yourself a proper ms3/ms3x. You won't regret it.

comparing it to the original mspnp is like comparing a Miata to a tricycle
Old Jan 20, 2017 | 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by 18psi
Build yourself a proper ms3/ms3x. You won't regret it.

comparing it to the original mspnp is like comparing a Miata to a tricycle
😂😂😂 love that comparison. Which kit should I kit? I am just a little sketched out about wiring into my stock harness is all.
Old Jan 20, 2017 | 11:03 AM
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you can easily build a pnp unit that plugs/unplugs from your oem harness just like the stock ecu.
Old Jan 20, 2017 | 11:06 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by ANONYMOUS_HAM
😂😂😂 love that comparison. Which kit should I kit? I am just a little sketched out about wiring into my stock harness is all.
Did you even look at the link I posted. EVERYTHING you need to know and do is laid out there.
Old Jan 20, 2017 | 11:11 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by shuiend
Did you even look at the link I posted. EVERYTHING you need to know and do is laid out there.
my bad. I read wrong and thought that was a soldering guide.
Old Jan 20, 2017 | 11:17 AM
  #58  
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Heck, if done right, all you need to do is run a vaccume hose to the MS3x and then plug it in and you can run the car. First few weeks of running were on the IAT sensor in the AFM, didn't have to touch a thing in the engine bay.
Old Jan 20, 2017 | 11:21 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by x_25
Heck, if done right, all you need to do is run a vaccume hose to the MS3x and then plug it in and you can run the car. First few weeks of running were on the IAT sensor in the AFM, didn't have to touch a thing in the engine bay.
Its going to push my build back prob a month or so, but I'm going to do it. Thanks everyone for the info. It's not expensive for what it offers.
Old Jan 20, 2017 | 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by x_25
Heck, if done right, all you need to do is run a vaccume hose to the MS3x and then plug it in and you can run the car. First few weeks of running were on the IAT sensor in the AFM, didn't have to touch a thing in the engine bay.
No wideband?



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