My turbo MX-5
 

I’ve been here four years and seen all kinds of failing. So here it is. My turn to success… on failing :bigtu:


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1337476711
Here was the starting point. 230whp coldside setup. Had to sell it for the turbo parts (Yeah I know. It could have been awesome to try some kind a twincharge setup)

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1337476711
Bore & hone. ARP bolts, ACL bearings, the usual...

http://www.miata.fi/gallery/index.ph...GJkMWM0MDFiNGI
SGI rods with 84mm 9.5:1 Supertechs

http://www.miata.fi/gallery/index.ph...k3Y2MzNWYyNWY3
oil return

http://www.miata.fi/gallery/index.ph...MjI0NmE4YjA3NA
Engine back in.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1337476711
ebay IC stuff. Garrett GT2560r from Nissan S15 Silvia and ARTech Ramhorn Top Mount manifold :noes:

http://www.miata.fi/gallery/index.ph...ODAyYzg2Y2RjZA

http://www.miata.fi/gallery/index.ph...MGFhZDY2MTg1YQ
looks nice

http://www.miata.fi/gallery/index.ph...jExN2RlODU4MjA
Waterpump neck didn’t fit with that ARTech manifold so I had to modify that a little

http://www.miata.fi/gallery/index.ph...zNjOTkxMjViY2Q
now it fits

http://www.miata.fi/gallery/index.ph...DM0ZTY4MjcxN2Q
Then we made a downpipe. 3.5” of course

http://www.miata.fi/gallery/index.ph...GU5YWMyMzE4MDA
heat wrapped it and then to the oven

http://www.miata.fi/gallery/index.ph...2MwNzkyMjQ4ZjY
Everything ready here

http://www.miata.fi/gallery/index.ph...UyMzQxNjA1ZWZi
...aand all ready here as well.

http://www.miata.fi/gallery/index.ph...zZhOWE3ZDIxYTY
Yes its 3.5" from downpipe to the end :jerkit:

http://www.miata.fi/kuvat/mt_IMG_4784.jpg
And here we are.

http://www.miata.fi/kuvat/mt_IMG_4772.jpg

http://www.miata.fi/kuvat/mt_IMG_4773.jpg
One self made turbo setup :party: Took me 5 months to finish

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1337477452
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1337477452
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1337477452

car specs:
Supertech 9.5:1 84mm forged pistons
SGI forged rods with ARP bolts
ARP head bolts
ACL Race bearings
Adaptronic E420c ECU +stock ecu to handle alternator
Toyota Corolla COP coils
DeatschWerks 800cc injectors and Walbro 190 pump. I'm only using 85% bioethanol
FM Level 1 clutch. 318 ft/lb
I.L.Motorsport 50mm radiator

GT2560r from S15 Silvia
ARTech™ Ramhorn Top Mount turbo manifold
full 3.5" exhaust with bigass Magnaflow muffler
Toyosport 550x225x64mm IC
AEM EBC boost solenoid

BCRacing coilovers
16x7 Rota Subzero wheels with Yokohama ADVAN Neova AD08 215/45 tires

- reserved -

How is it that you have so much time invested in your engine, but still rock a "style bar"?

I know :facepalm: i'm working on it! M2 Hard Dog rollbar maybe...

and who gives a fu*k about style bar when car sounds like this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=BsvoPtve4jM

very nice work. looks like we have another fabricator on here.

Thank you but I’m not really a fabricator. All credits go to a guy named Mikael Norrgård. He’s the one who made that downpipe and exhaust.

And 18psi thanks for the IC hotside pipe routing. I copied it from your old build thread. :)

:bigtu:

Very nice setup, from the front plate mount to the 3.5" tip.

Where did you get the material for the heat shields?

it's just some random stainles steel sheet that we cut to fit

Nice work muoto. +1 for the pink dip stick!
Can you post a sound clip for the exhaust?

idle:

1-2-3 gears WOT:




I need pink miataturbo.net sticker!!!!! :sadwavey:

I got my EBC working today. Now it's spooling ok.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1337631510

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1337631510
150kPa(7,25psi) @ 2700rpm
200kPa(14,5psi) @ 3300rpm

Ign.timing is still super safe as you may notice. 17deg BTDC at redline.

that sounds cool!

that's some nice spool, but then again, it's a GT2560 with a 3.5" exhaust

Spool seems to be almost as good, if not the same as GT2560 setups with short tubular manifold. I’m really happy with it. EFR 6258 is going in when I get money for it. That is the reason I have 3” v-band flange in the downpipe.

fawk yeah!!

Umm, more vids! That thing sounds incredible.

More videos is coming when I get to track :skid:

In the meantime, few random pictures:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1337752590

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1337752590
I have one extra o2 port so I put my stock narrowband sensor there. Adaptronic read both at the same time

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1337752590
Heat shield for my air filter. I hope that it’s going to block most of the hot air coming from radiator.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1337752590
I changed my fuel&ign maps from 500cell resolution to 250cells. Idle is now hundred times better

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1337752590
I tend to test my ecu changes with VirtualDyno program to see if there are any gains. Cool little program. Thread about program here: https://www.miataturbo.net/ecus-tuning-54/virtual-dyno-59374/

Do like, waiting to test drive it.

one boring dyno video:

and one odd looking dyno graph:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1340061832
Before someone comments it. Those are newton meters and kilowatts

So it’s: 284whp @6400rpm
peak torque: 265lbs around 4300rpm
boost was only 14.5PSI
there was something wrong with the wastegate signal hose and I didn’t get more boost. :facepalm: Wastegate was fully closed (in Adaptronic EBC wastegate settings) but still it didn’t boost more. edit: turns out my wastegate lid was leaking

here's my "dyno-tuned" timing map:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1339361883

I have to get external mic for my gopro :bang:

But car runs fine. There’s odd small oil leak in oil pan and I don’t feel like re-sealing the whole oilpan. Maybe I just leave it.

And then there’s a usual E85 catch-can issue. I get about liter of water in one trackday. But there’s a little I can do to that except build super big catch-can

I'm pretty sure that dyno dynamics "shootout mode" means crank hp and not whp.
edit: Yeah it says on the dyno that the mode is "Shoot_4F". That's for 4 cylinder 2WD Forced induction flywheel "estimation"

No. Here's crank hp chart:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1339709819

335hp at flywheel @14.5psi

Playing with my GoPro :)

Awesome work man. Keep the vids coming, can never get too many of those:)

I know how you guys hate drifting. So here's a drifting video:

I'm only going to hate on the mouse trap. Get a rollbar if you're doing shit like that.

Car looks badass otherwise though, sounds healthy.

Yeah I know but at least i get quick painless death if I rotate it :rolleyes: Real rollbar is in my shopping list though

Also I had to get better tires. Now I have Yokohama AD08 215/45 and they spin on third when exiting corner. I had never concentrate so much just to control throttle

b b bb BUILT ENGINE MEGA FRAKKING WIN

3.5" exhaust MEGA FRAKKING WIN

GT2560R MEGA FRAKKING FAIL

Why you do this to me? Put bigger turbo on plez

BTW your air filter heat shield looks frikken fantastic. But it won't work. The heat shield itself will heat up. And radiate the heat to the air filter side.

Cold air intake is only worth it unless it is actually sitting outside of the engine bay like cowl induction. Hornetball does that and recorded good results

2560 is in there because it was cheap (400$. Almost new). We design that downpipe EFR6258 in mind. That is why there’s v-band adapter in turbine housing

You are probably right. But it isn’t too hot to touch after track abuse. Just a little warm

And IAT isn’t problem. My cheap (95$) china IC is doing good job there. Air temp before IC = +125°C. After IC = +28°C (max)

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1345754243

And I think it’s time for Deatschwerks DW300 pump. I’m now using Walbro 190HP and I can clearly see my fuel pressure fall from 80psi to 70psi after 6000rpm

Your bov sounds amazing.

Tial 50mm right? I got the same one just for that sound. what spring you got in there? does it surge?

Actually its fake 50mm Tial. Much cheaper than the real one: 50MM BOV with Tial Style Flange - Red (Type 2)

It came with two springs. One is so stiff that it makes loud surge noise every time you let off the gas. And the soft springs other hand is so soft that it leaks on idle. But I read somewhere that it’s normal to BOV leak little on idle. (that almost rhymes)

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1346221045
We have annual inspections here so I have to add resonator that look like a catalysator to the car

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1346221045

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1346221045
Exhaust has been making noise so we make more room for it by grinding diff housing :)

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1346221045
Now it has room to move

so pretty i would love to run a similar setup

Can someone remind me why are we still using superchargers? :bang:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1348298503

This is my current GT2560 setup vs. previous FastForwardSupercharger™ MP62 kit in the backround. If you're looking just boost level, at 2200rpm turbo start making more. Still I'm sure GT2560 is making a lot more torque above 1800rpm although boost pressure is a bit lower. It pulls like big turbodiesel engine. I hit my boost target at 2900rpm! and this is with BP4W head not the VVT one. f*cking awesome

GT2560 fifth gear pull: (rpm | psi)
1879 2.75
2022 3.48
2122 4.20
2276 5.24
2390 6.82
2456 6.96
2564 7.98
2662 9.72
2776 11.46 (wastegate opens)
2866 12.64
2996 15.38 (boost limit)

...$4695 for FFS supercharger kit? No thanks :giggle:

ps. You guys should see the IAT temp log between turbo and FFS sc :rofl: no wonder that I was able to break 2 engines with the supercharger

Common MUOTO you have the IAT logs, share them.

copied from mx5nutz.com:

Here’s my trackday IAT logs for past 4 years:
MP62 Coldside without any "charge cooler" = +120-150°C
MP62 Coldside with e-cool "fuel inj. cooler" = +60-90°C
MP62 Coldside with two water inj. nozzles = +50-70°C
(all these were 10-14psi)

GT2560 turbo @16psi and big FMIC = +140°C before IC and +25-30°C after (ambient +20°C)

And I have to add. With 98RON fuel it was pinging every time IAT gone over +70°C. Basically all the time in track. street driving was fine. With E85 FFS kit was finally "trackable"

I’m so fed up with the constant misfire that I’m ordering LS2 truck coils next. Spark plug gap is now .023 and its still misfires at 16psi. Seems that Toyota COPs just aren’t enough for E85 :/

What boost level? And what spark plugs?


I was at 16psi on NGK IR's and totally fine. Even when I tried 18psi for a little while.

It really depends on the specific COPs you have. I too had misfires.

LS2/truck coils are super-mega-awesome win and barely any more expensive than COPs to setup.

It starts misfiring above 15psi. Have tested it with Iridium 7’s, NGK BKR6E and NGK BKR7E plugs. My Toyota COPS are part.no. 90919-02239

Problem is only with E85

I'd guess the spark is being quenched by the extra amount of fuel required when using E85 to hit the same AFR.

Awesome setup, I wish I could ape it. I'm just using something similar to your first setup, it's no power monster, but it suits me OK.

Misfires are caused by spark not being powerful enough to arc across the gap. Air/fuel mixture is an insulator. Compressed air/fuel mixture is more of an insulator. Compressed air/E85 mixture is, apparently, even more of an insulator.

Boost, compression ratio, amount and type of fuel are all factors. And quality of rings, too.

Can't just say "my COPs were fine at 15psi"....

Something broke :vash:
I did 5th gear WOT run and after that I noticed that car doesn’t pull anymore. Feels like something retard my ignition -20deg backwards. Drove home, remove CAS sensor and clean it, put it back and everything was fine again. Did quick test run around the block and suddenly car dies and won’t start up again.


- has spark
- has fuel
- adaptronic sees CAS and crank sensors.

any luck sorting this? I am curious what it could be.
Do you have a stock timing wheel /sensor?
It does sound that timing is off. I guess seeing that it doesn't start you cant try a timing light..

You’re right it sounds like timing is off. But I’m sure it isn’t. At least cam pulleys are in line.

Stock timing wheel and sensors.

I’m sure it’s something to do with the CAS sensor in the intake cam. I’ll have to buy new one and see


edit: I was right. It was something to do with triggers. Only it was Crank trigger not the Cam one.


yeah. crank bolt has loosen up again. F*ck! second time already this year

Little update:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1354215074
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1354215074

Little bit of JB weld to my crank key way and car was running fine again. Old damper pulley looks like it has seen better days so I’m probably get 949's SuperMiata damper next year


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1354215074

Also my new seats arrive. Bride Zeta typeS. Now only thing I need is real roll bars and Takata harness.


Next year I’m focusing more to TimeAttack. My part list to next season:
- rollbar of course
- 6UL 15x9 wheels with some TW140 rubber (my timeattack class limit treadwear to 140)
- Stiffer coilover springs. Moving from 450/350 to 700/400
- 949 Racing SuperMiata Sway Bar kit
- 949 Racing SuperMiata harmonic damper
- TSE 11.75" brake kit
- Honda Integra Type-R intake manifold
- LS2 Truck ign. coils

Damn im loving this car, but that loose bolt really fudged up that key way. How did the timing pulley fair after that?

Thanks. Timing pulley sits just fine and timing is what is should be. There’s still that little 0.01" gap between key and timing pulley, don’t know if I should change the timing pulley or not...

oh.. what do we have here...
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1355163311

785$ New GT2871r 56 trim, 0.64 A/R. I went with that because EFR 6758 cost here 1850$ :cry:



https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1355163311
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1355163311
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1355163311
http://www.miata.fi/kuvat/bride24.jpg
http://www.miata.fi/kuvat/bride22.jpg

Bride seats sits nice and low. I modified the stock seat rails to fit Bride side brackets. They sit about inch from the floor.

Cool brake reservoir sock! This car will be a monster once you get through your to do list.

Just curious, which roll bar do yo plan to use? TRlane, Hard dog, custom?

I personally like seeing my brake fluid level, much more than slopping up the fluid that will never spill on the track like most muscle cars...

Thanks. It feels like a monster now with ~300whp. Can’t wait to drive it with 330-350whp :)
I have been looking Hard dog roll bars. There’s one for sale in UK but due the size of it it’s really pain to get it in here to Finland. :vash:


I’m not going to leave it there :D



https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1355254720
ARTech ftw. Around 10-20 track weekends and still 100% crack free

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1355254720
"Theres so much room for activities!" :eek3dance

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1355254720
Left one 1000miles with gasoline. Right one 10 000miles with E85

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1355254720
From outside there isn’t so much difference between 2560 and 2871...

I’ve been using 0.8mm (0.03") oil restrictor with the old 2560. I’m going to use that with the 2871 too.

What kind a locking nuts do you guys recommend? I already have Inconel studs there

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1356088495
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1356088495
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1356088495
ported v-band adapter

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1356088495
also I fu*k up one of my Inconel studs. Cost 35$/piece from Begi :crx:

How did you manage to shear the threads?

With mad skills