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"Ground activated" means that you have the input wire from rywire - switch - ground. When the switch is closed, the power is enabled on the rywire output. This is similar to how ECU's provide the ground for a relay. But man, that looks like an expensive solution..
It is a pretty bad *** unit and I got it in the hopes of saving some time. All the relays and fuses are controlled by simply plugging in a laptop and setting the values in software. It also comes with a really nice premade universal chassis harness and I needed one. The wiring on the car needed to be redone from scratch, it was really bad.
So it sounds like instead of running power to the white/red wire, I just simply ground it to turn the miata keyed ingnition switches into ground switches. Is that right?
Yeah, that will work - but in my mind that's gonna be a huge pita, since you basically have to rewire everything that's hanging off of IG1 - or at least verify you're not sticking ground where 12v is expected.. and stuff like starter will now need an additional input (starter solenoid needs +12v).
Shouldn't be too bad, everything is disconnected/cut and setup to be fully run from the P12.
There isn't that much on the car. Headlights, spal fan, horn, ecu, aim dash, alternator, starter, e85 sensor, marker lights and a fuel pump. I'm pretty much doing the wiring from scratch, it needed it!
Oh and to clarify, the ground activated switches go to the the P12 (12 inputs and 12 outputs). I then get to select via computer which outputs get power based on the input switches triggering them. So for starter and everything else it has actually been pretty easy to wire everything up. I'm also using a keisler harness and they did an awesome job to make this very easy.
Got the new V8R shifter installed. The exocet tunnel is a bit flimsy, so I need to brace it from underneath. Fairly simple install though and the piece is gorgeous and built like a tank. I'm not on the road yet, but running it through the gears feels very good. The position and height are absolutely perfect!
Great looking piece of hardware! It would be nice to see someone with the original shifter in an actual miata chassis try one to see if it fixes the 2nd / 3rd gear issues. Can't wait to see some video of it in action!
Need some help guys, I'm stumped. Trying to start the engine right now and everything looks good, but no spark. Engine harness is from keisler and has three positive inputs. All three are getting power. Harness is connected to everything. Fuel pumps are running. Just no spark. I even pulled a coil and plug out to look at it while attempting to start. Nothing. All ground wires are connected. Any ideas where to troubleshoot?
Need some help guys, I'm stumped. Trying to start the engine right now and everything looks good, but no spark. Engine harness is from keisler and has three positive inputs. All three are getting power. Harness is connected to everything. Fuel pumps are running. Just no spark. I even pulled a coil and plug out to look at it while attempting to spark. Nothing. All ground wires are connected. Any ideas where to troubleshoot?
Are there fuses for the various high draw circuits like the coils, O2 sensors, main switched and constant 12v in that harness?
With the e39 too, you need to be at or above 12v for it to start. Anything below that and it will just crank over but won't start. At least that was my experience....
11.0v while cranking. Wtf, I'm using a really good battery (Odyssey PC925) and it is on a trickle charger while attempting to start. What do you think could be dropping it like that?
I have the fuel pump wired so it stays on while starting the car. Other than that there isn't much to drop the voltage. The car is a cage with an engine.
The starter is the only thing coming on for the start ignition key position and it is dropping me from 13v+ down to 11v. Even tried to boost with a li-ion jump box and it still didn't get above 12v while starting. Wtf?
For me if I ever have an issue like this it ends up being something simple I missed so I'll just spitball for you. I'll just spout off where I would start and sorry I can't give you exact pins because I'm in Cali currently....
1. Do all the critical circuits have 12v while cranking and not shutting off while the starter is engaged?
2. Is the block properly grounded with a good size cable? (2 awg from block to ground)
3. Can you connect to the ecu and log data while cranking?
4. Is the ecu throwing any codes?
Hang in there.... you will figure it out just like everything else.
I think it is the gas. I haven't driven the car in 8 months. Last time I left gas that long in my lawnmower it wouldn't start.
Answers to the questions anyways just in case it isn't the gas.
1. Yup, 100% certain nothing is shutting off while cranking.
2. 2awg from battery - to chassis and chassis to block, and 2awg from battery + to starter
3+4. Not yet, but I'll be doing that tomorrow. I have an Autocal EFI from Overkill with the new tune and I think it pulls codes too.
Okay, there were a **** ton of codes being thrown. Most are emissions equipment and related to missing components that should not cause the engine to not start.
The two I that will cause starting issues... P0615 - starter relay: This code indicates that the starter relay (also called the PNP relay or park/neutral relay) is in the “On” position when the vehicle is not in park or neutral. When the vehicle is in gear, the starter relay should be in the “Off” position, which prevents the vehicle from starting when it’s in gear. If it’s in the “On” position when the vehicle is not in park or neutral, the code will set, and the Check Engine light will turn on. P0118 - coolant temp sensor: The ECT sensor range input to the ECM went to 4.91 or less than -40 deg F indicating an open circuit in the sensor, connector or wiring.
Ordered a new coolant sensor just to be sure and will double check the wiring. Connecting the transmission reverse switch now to see if that was the issue with the starter.
Codes shouldn't prevent it from firing - the ECT will cause issues, but shouldn't prevent firing.
I can't remember - Do you have HPTuners? The verbage for VATS disable is a little confusing / double negative-y.
Good info, thanks! I don't have HP Tuners. Do I need VATS disabled?
I just checked again for spark and no luck. Grounded the spark plug threaded part, inserted the back all the way into the coil plug, and put a screwdriver within 1/2mm of the tip.
Checked starting voltage again and it goes from 12.5v to 11.0v while starting. I'm using a decent size battery, any thoughts on how to keep voltage up while starting?
VATS is the main thing that needs to be turned off to use the ECU as a standalone - did you pick up the ECM from v8r? If so, should already be turned off.
A jump pack is enough extra juice on ours to get over the undervolt issue - I don't know exactly what the threshold voltage is for disabling the injectors - I don't know if it disables the spark as well.
It'd be nice if you had an HPTuners cable to monitor while cranking.. if you have a cheap OBDII dongle, it'd be nice just to verify the ECM is remaining powered while cranking.
08-10-2019, 04:36 PM
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