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Alternator will default to 13.6v when disconnected. Anything less than that either indicates the voltage internal voltage regulator is messed up, or you have insufficient gauge from the alternator stud back to your fusebox when under load.
Trust me - nothing in those hp tuner settings will do jack squat. Been down that road.
Trust me - nothing in those hp tuner settings will do jack squat. Been down that road.
I can confirm that now. None of the settings do **** unfortunately.
I just ran the power wire for the derale fan controller directly to the battery positive post. Will test it in the morning and report back. Fingers crossed.
Ran the derale controller directly off the battery and it still did it. Bypassed the derale and used my power probe to run the fan directly off the battery still did it. Hooked up my og smaller fan that only draws 7 amps and turned it on, all good.
I am fairly certain the big fan just draws so much power at start up (and drops my voltage into the low 12's) that the ecu sees that and freaks out. That bigger fan is so awesome and powerful, but it just isn't going to work.
Or run a capacitor. The 1.5 or 2 ferad ones like they use in mobile audio setups should do the trick. We can bust out a calculator to verify before you buy one.
I think you will want the bigger fan while sitting still on the paddock after a few hot laps.
Or run a capacitor. The 1.5 or 2 ferad ones like they use in mobile audio setups should do the trick. We can bust out a calculator to verify before you buy one.
I think you will want the bigger fan while sitting still on the paddock after a few hot laps.
Sweet!
I'm just happy to be able to tune it finally with all the headaches. Let me know how big you think the capacitor will need to be.
Starting to look into the possibility of building one of these things (Exocet) for time attack. Instead of dumping thousands more into supercharging, moving to an easy to work on and ultra light weight tube frame chassis that I can run whatever wheels and tires I want sounds amazing....
Any more info on the alternator issue? If it was on the passenger side like its supposed to be was the frame just too close to the stud? My stud is close to the subframe, not the miata body frame rail...
Starting to look into the possibility of building one of these things (Exocet) for time attack. Instead of dumping thousands more into supercharging, moving to an easy to work on and ultra light weight tube frame chassis that I can run whatever wheels and tires I want sounds amazing....
Any more info on the alternator issue? If it was on the passenger side like its supposed to be was the frame just too close to the stud? My stud is close to the subframe, not the miata body frame rail...
For me, the frame and subframe were in the way. Everything I have read and experienced is that power steering is not needed on an exocet. The ideal place for the oem alternator so you don't have to cut the frame or subframe is just to flip the mount and put it on the passenger side power steering location. Someone on here custom fabricated a mount for an aftermarket alternator to put in the oem location. Seems easier just to move the oem one.
Update time... finally got my Overkill tune and was very impressed. Did a drive and sent him a log and just got revision two back. For anyone looking to do an overkill tune send him your base file as soon as possible. It will take at least a couple months for him to get back in my experience. I even offered a bribe to cut in line and it was a no go.
As is the theme of this build I immediately had a couple more issues.
The exhaust is the loudest exhaust I have ever heard excluding straight pipes. It was way too ridiculous. So I pulled it off for the 50th time and cut the muffler open. Added a few baffles, some screens to keep the packing in and shoved some cut-up high temp (1800 degree) ceramic exhaust packing in it. Welded it all back up and just got it back on the car. Fingers crossed it is toned down a bit now.
I was also running into some issues with wild MAF readings. My MAF sensor is about 3" from the back of my intake cone and ideally it should be twice the diameter of the tube away from the intake cone to allow the air to straighten out. I ordered a MAF straightener which is essentially some honeycomb stainless about 1/2" wide and the diameter of the intake. Read some very positive things on these and hopefully it does what it is supposed to. I epoxied it into place just for security and it came out great.
Got a 10 min drive in on the new tune and holy ****... Haven't really had the chance to get on it yet, so today was the first time. I've been in some fast cars, but nothing like this. And the amount of torque from idle is just insane. Not even on the E85 tune yet, so we'll see how that goes. Managed to spin the RC1's in third gear and they were warmed up. I'm sure the 3.91 gears helped, but god they make roll-ons so much fun.
Need a proper alignment asap and will keep working on the tune. Other than that, car seems to be perfectly setup. The Xidas on the softest setting made the ride quality very good and even with a **** alignment the handling is out of this world. I love the swaybar setup I ended up with thanks to Emilio's suggestion (stock rear sway and 54102 Racing Beat front). And the new shifter from V8R is pretty amazing, highly recommended.
So fed up with vbands. I've welded the vbands on my echaust three times now to get them as perfect as can be and they still leak. This is using the very nice inner flange vbands from stainless bros (ticon). I've tried gaskets, high temp copper seal, rewelding... nothing works and vbands are garbage.
Came across this video, anyone used or seen these in person?
In all the Caterpillar construction equipment that I work with, its all marman flanges for exhaust. I'd be surprised if they dont work for you
I can't figure out why companies still make vbands, they are absolute trash and don't seal 100%. These seem like a much better option that is proven to work.
Build is pretty much done at this point. I'll redo the exhaust again and ditch the vbands and update once that is done. Once I get the tune finished there isn't really anything else to do but drive it.
Picture dump of the car as it currently sits with the chopped hood.
The spintech 6000 street muffler is just too loud. Even after cutting it open and adding baffles, the car is undrivable without hearing protection.
For exhaust version 37, I'm switching the spintech muffler out for a pair of Flowmaster HP-2's (12512304). I like the design of these internally and believe they should quiet it down a bit. They will also fit in the small area below the driveshaft in the tunnel.
I've done more research on muffler design than I care to admit. And after reading multiple thesis papers and everything else I could find, I believe for the size restrictions I have the flowmaster HP-2 is the best solution.
Flowmaster HP2's weren't even close to fitting in the tunnel. Called spintech and Ron is making me a custom muffler. I have an extra inch to spare in width and length over their standard 6000 pro street muffler, so he will be building one to that size with their sound deadening material on the walls as well. Fingers crossed the exhaust is toned down enough to not need hearing protection.
I have concerns about breaking the oem miata diff housing, even with the kmiata bolt-on brace. I have been looking for a good deal on an FC NA RX7 housing for a while and just came across a 1991 S5 diff for $250 shipped in Texas. There was a comment on Greg Peters' video that was insightful on there being two different FC RX7 NA diffs. One being stronger and it is based on the year of manufacture. I ended up getting a 1991 diff based on the info below. Interesting because I have never seen that mentioned anywhere before.
"Hey Greg... the diff carrier you’re using is from a S4 (86-88) Rx7. The S5 (89-91) carriers are 2lbs heavier. The S5 has thicker webbing across the "beam" .475 vs .320 for the S4. The S5 also has been triangulated in the beam area as well as having the lower web of the beam merge with the output shaft saddle. All in all the S5 is a beefier unit."
Went ahead and ordered new axle seals and in case anyone else has trouble finding the part number, here it is. ***Still not 100% sure this is correct, but I'll confirm when they arrive. https://www.mazdatrix.com/product/di...86-92-n-t-all/
Mazda Part # F003-27-238C
Got the 1991 FC RX7 diff and have it all disassembled except for the bushings. A friend has a press at his shop so I'm just going to do them there tomorrow.
OEM diff vent was clogged and stuck, so ordered a new one from ebay. Part #0730-26-060
Got some new energy diff bushings and OS Giken lube from Supermiata on the way.
I was looking at Greg's video again and they are definitely different. The S4 FC RX7 diff is pictured first and the S5 second. You can read the quote in my post above for the exact differences.
10-13-2019, 12:17 AM
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