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FYI, I reached out to Rapid Harness already. It's an awesome product, but I had the same issue with their price structure. No dice.
I got the same response, which is why I'm continuing with several sub-harnesses with less than 30 connections each. I lose the elegance of complete BOMs and connection tables. The sales guy, with whom I shared this thread, mentioned that it's possible to open harnesses with more than 30 connections in the free version, but not edit them. So I could buy one month, finish my harness in that period, then cancel, and still have access to my harness, but not the ability to edit it. Not sold, especially at the retail price.
Not much activity to report. I ordered a bunch of maintenance/while-I'm-in-there parts from RockAuto today. Basically a water pump, a few gaskets (my rear main seal seems to have given up), and some other piddling crap.
Still to order are the DBW throttle body and throttle pedal. I'm now considering the pedal from a <2008 Honda Fit. Obviously it fits (pun fully intended), and I've heard tell that it's often used in K-swaps (I don't recall where I read that, maybe Arca?). It's cheap and maybe most importantly, it's got a metal bar for the pedal arm instead of a cast/molded plastic shape. I figure it'll be easier to tweak that bar to put the pedal where I want it.
I still haven't made a decision on the PDM. Lots of good posts over in the PDM thread, but my wallet is really screaming. I think I may go a cheap route for now and make sure I can easily insert the high-end stuff at a later date.
I've been adding contact information to all of my diagrams so I can build a comprehensive BOM for parts from Ballenger. I paid $70 for a used charging/starting harness from a recycler in SoCal so I have those connectors now too, as well as the heavy-gauge wire. I think I'm set for plastic bits, I'll just need to order contacts and seals. I'll post my list once I place my order.
Last NASA weekend of the season this weekend. KPower order arrives mid next week. Things are starting to move.
The while-I'm-in-there parts are never a bad idea. My rear main seal looked fine on the 42k mile I sourced, but at some point, it got damaged and would build quite a puddle underneath the car after running.
The t-stat housing cracked after I put in the heater-core delete plug, so if you're doing the same and want to be a baller K-tuned makes a pretty sweet piece I'm putting on my next to buy list: Swivel Thermostat V2 (Direct mount)
What did you think of Honda Parts Now? I’m planning to buy some new OE parts, can’t decide which dealer is worthy of my business.
They were great, along with AcuraExpressParts which I believe is the same company. Just be really careful when you're on HondaPartsNow......... For example a 2013 Accord part isn't always the same as a 2013 TSX part...... like the fuggin' timing belt tensioner
They were great, along with AcuraExpressParts which I believe is the same company. Just be really careful when you're on HondaPartsNow......... For example a 2013 Accord part isn't always the same as a 2013 TSX part...... like the fuggin' timing belt tensioner
Really? FFS. Thank you for saving me a headache, as that is one of the parts I planned to buy...
They were great, along with AcuraExpressParts which I believe is the same company. Just be really careful when you're on HondaPartsNow......... For example a 2013 Accord part isn't always the same as a 2013 TSX part...... like the fuggin' timing belt tensioner
The Accord was a new platform in 2012 (9th gen) that added the K24W with direct injection. The TSX was a tarted up variant of the 8th gen Accord, which was new for 2008, and used the older PI K24Z3.
Not much progress to relate. Put the final track day on the BP this past weekend at Sonoma.
FedEx has my kit and has gotten lost somewhere West of Chicago. No updates from them in a couple days. I reached out to @KMiata this morning to see if they could shake something loose from FedEx. They're on it now - I've been very pleased with their service.
I also ordered a 6 speed from Drago/East Street Racing. Also very pleasant people to work with. The only 6 speed available locally is asking $700 on car-part and won't answer their phone. Drago is throwing in a 6 speed shifter and sending it across the country for only $50 more. I think that's worth the premium. Now I just have to bribe the guys on the loading dock at work to accept the delivery and put it aside for me . I don't want it to reach our Incoming Quality Control team or I'll have to write inspection procedures...
My doorbell rang at 9 this morning (Sunday) and I came out to find the shipment from Kmiata. Through some FedEx magic, it left Chicago on Tuesday and wasn't scanned again until 5am Sunday when it was loaded onto the delivery truck. Very weird. But I have my parts!
My dog Jack is less than impressed.
I took everything out of the boxes and photographed it so I know what I have. Unfortunately KMiata doesn't provide a detailed packing list so I have to assume everything is there based on the various lines in my invoice.
I got a bit of work done on the engine disassembly. The Honda boys aren't kidding when they say the crank pulley bolt is stuck on there. Not even my Subaru EJ was this tight. I rented the counter-holding tool from my local auto parts store because neither my electric nor air impact did squat. Frankly, even a decent-sized cheater bar didn't do it. I ended up using an approximately nine foot cheater pipe, plus two friends holding down the engine/stand. That's insane in my book.
I'll throw a tip in here for anyone going down this road: after all the bolts are off the oil pan, I found it didn't want to be pried off. I used a very large cold chisel and a dead blow to gently thwack it off at a couple of key places. There's no paper gasket or anything, just that tenacious HondaBond stuff.
Weighted crank bolt socket and a Milwaukee M18 Fuel electric impact zipped the crank bolt out like it was nothing on mine. A couple things to be aware of that I found is to check clearance of your rod bolts to the windage tray, mine and others actually had contact when turning the engine over by hand. Also some of the bolts for block off plates and engine mounts going into the block are too long by like a couple hundredths and I had to shorten them to prevent bottoming out in the block. If you just tighten them down you wouldn't notice without feeler gauges. I think going from the prototype to the final kit they switched from normal bolts with washers to flanged bolts and no washers but used the same length hardware without checking it.
Dammit. I cleaned the heck out of the timing cover and block, got a beautiful bead of Hondabond on, and then forgot this damn o-ring. Anyone know if it’s important?
Dammit. I cleaned the heck out of the timing cover and block, got a beautiful bead of Hondabond on, and then forgot this damn o-ring. Anyone know if it’s important?
That looks like the oil pump block off. I don't remember a seal behind the timing cover.
That looks like the oil pump block off. I don't remember a seal behind the timing cover.
I found a pic of what it’s supposed to seal. It’s that area right above the tensioner.
I'm done for the day. I think I'll just pull the cover tomorrow. It's a hell of a lot easier to redo this on the engine stand than in place... sigh.
edited to add: the answer is “oil gallery”. It's directly connected to the center (output) of the oil filter. So yeah, I think that seal is important. I pulled everything back off and got most of the goop off with acetone. Will get the rest in the morning.
Last edited by thebeerbaron; 10-30-2020 at 07:04 PM.
Reason: fixed formatting
After fighting oil leaks with 3x transmission pulls and an extra engine pull I'd recommend being very thorough on your sealing the timing cover and oil-pan. I'm currently resealing my oil-pan and resealing the timing cover for the third time.
Did you source the 3x m10x1.25 bolts for the timing cover yet?
Did you source the 3x m10x1.25 bolts for the timing cover yet?
I’m thinking I’ll use the stock ones for now, with the front engine mount, so I have a good lifting point.
It’s funny you mention this - I was thinking last night that the instructions don’t mention that these are part of the sealing process. At least that’s what I gather from the Acura manual...
I think the engine is pretty well buttoned up for now. Timing cover is back on and there's a decent amount of Hondabond squeezed out around the perimeter. Oil pan is similarly attached and squeezed. Engine mounts are attached.
I installed the clutch slave and cut some scrap aluminum to cover the release fork hole. Being the dork that I am, I also machined pilot and tap drill guides for M6 bolts so I could drill and tap for bolts to hold the cover in place. It's attached by three M6x12s for now; when I'm confident everything works, I'll throw some sealant on it and really button it up. I wanted a solution that would let me pull and replace the cover easily at the track. I figure in an emergency, there'll be no need to re-seal it immediately but having the cover bolted in place to keep out the big stuff would be a good thing.
I had hoped to pull the VVT motor this weekend, but I'm a little hesitant to do so without a buyer lined up. It'd be nice to be able to demonstrate that the engine runs well, but I don't want to wait forever. I don't have the clutch in hand yet, but I do want to at least do a test fit or two to check (and make) clearances. I also want it in there so I can do measurements for the harness.
I placed my order for the Haltech and wideband this weekend. I also received a set of RDX injectors (E85 is on the menu). I need to update the expenditures in the first post, but I'm somewhat afraid to do so. Oh, and I need to buy the modified valve cover and send in my core.
Good stuff. I would just take a good video, with a shot of the current days newspaper or something for date verification and use that as proof of running then yank it. That's way more than most people provide with used engine sales anyways.
After fighting oil leaks with 3x transmission pulls and an extra engine pull I'd recommend being very thorough on your sealing the timing cover and oil-pan. I'm currently resealing my oil-pan and resealing the timing cover for the third time.
And check your oil pan on a sheet of glass to see if it's flat. I had to have mine resurfaced.
And check your oil pan on a sheet of glass to see if it's flat. I had to have mine resurfaced.
I'm scared to do this on mine lol... hoping it's flat. It's already been surfaced by Kmiata and it looks like it required a ton of material to come off. One side of the flange is at least a 1/4" thicker than the other end.
I'm scared to do this on mine lol... hoping it's flat. It's already been surfaced by Kmiata and it looks like it required a ton of material to come off. One side of the flange is at least a 1/4" thicker than the other end.
Yeah I'd be worried about contact on the oil pickup tube contacting the oil pan if one had to get a lot of material off. I just did a thorough seal job and crossing fingers it's fixed!
10-09-2020, 02:06 AM
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. I don't want it to reach our Incoming Quality Control team or I'll have to write inspection procedures...
