New bikes are great, the reach is way longer on all the current geo stuff too, which surprised me looking at the latest tech. I've been considering upgrading from my 2017 era bike lately because prices are so.low right now, but I keep spending cash on car junk.

I always check for updates and love your truck. I have a 93 b2600i 4x4 short bed that I can't help but think about FE3 swapping from time to time.

If you see 18psi still tell him we miss him around here

 

We love Vlad, 18psi!

 

I broke the TKX shifter again. The steel "Z" bar on the match box is all that keeps the shifter from overshooting the shift gates. At least the parts kits are cheap, so I bought 3. When I get to my last set ill buy a short shifter so I won't have to deal with it anymore.

 

Added some extra A/C vents between the evaporator and the heater core for better cooling. The extra volume makes it cold inside with the windows up and they are the perfect height to blow right up the shorts to keep me cool with the windows down.

 

This truck is cursed, how the hell does an alternator case break? Its a GM 1 wire from summit that is less than 2 months old.

 

Hahaha that's a new one. Lots of vibrations? Overtensioned belt? Non OEM mounting strategy that puts tension/stress on it when tightened down?

I'm always here for your updates man, thanks for continuing to keep us updated.

 

It broke again in only 25 days, Summit took the Powermaster back and sent me a Top Street Performance one. I double checked everything i could think of that would make it my fault. The belt was loose enough to squeal on startup so it wasn't over tightened. The pulley is aligned and square. All the brackets are tight. I i keep being told that the problem is in the mounting but the factory Kia one has been in there a decade. I only replaced it cause the 70amps is not enough to run my A/C. I redesigned the tensioning bracket anyway just in case. I'm using a SBC bracket welded to my existing one.

 

any alternator shops near you that can re-wing the kia alternator for more amps? since you know that housing doesnt break.

 

I had a powermaster break just like that 15 years ago on my mustang.
Cheap china casting is my uneducated guess

 

There's only one alternator shop that I know of by me and they said they couldn't work on it.

 

Needed to add a 50amp RV plug to power my TIG. While i was at it i got rid of the horrible looking flex conduit to my A/C. I didn't realize the Hobart TIG i got was 50amp cause it had a 30amp plug on it i assumed it was 30. It welded 1/8th just fine while i was practicing but when i went to build up the throttle body mount it just stopped making puddles then popped the breaker after 3 seconds of full throttle. It took all damn day to put that stupid outlet in. 50% of that time was trying to get the 6awg back in the boxes, that **** does not like to bend.

The build up is slow going cause the #17 torch i have gets hot pretty fast. It should be built up and ready to machine by the end of the day.

 

Trusting the process of welding up and grinding back for the K24/ sportage hybrid intake manifold im making. Im not the best welder so finding zero porosity when grinding back was a huge relief. Tomorrow I'll drill and tap the holes to mount the 72mm throttle body. Then I can gasket match and smooth the transition into the plenum.

 

Love the updates buddy! Maybe see you at Sonoma or Redding one day soon. I have always been impressed by your welding skills, of course I have only my own to compare.

 

busy Saturday progress. now i need to pull everything off the tuck to position the new stuff to make the runners.

 

I machined up some offset fuel injector cups to make the manifold perfectly match the fuel rail. Offsetting them .5mm didn't seem like it would do much, but they are all 97mm on center now. The offset was easy enough, I machined the ID, loosened the chuck, put in a 0.5mm feeler gauge, machined the OD.





[img]https://i.imgur.com/77BBWeP.jpg[img]

 

More progress on the manifold. All that's left is mounting the fuel rail and making gaskets for the idle controller.

 

gasket matched the manifold to the head, rewired the injector and throttle sensor connector. Is on and back running. Idle is now so stable. Cant wait for some warmer dry weather to see if it picked up any power.

 

 

I knew my lower control arm mounts were cracked and I had a double shear fix planned but i didn't realize how bad they were until I started fixing it. The drivers side fell apart when I took the bolt out. That's probably why it developed a little bit of a shimmy on the freeway cause its gone now.

 

The stupid alternator started cracking again. This is the last attempt to keep the CS130 GM 1 wire style. If the reinforcing cracks I'm going back to a Denso. I really don't want to have to redesign the mounting bracket for the 4th time.