fastivab6tg25mr

The top line is a remote bleed screw since I can't reach into the bell housing from that tiny hole. I'm not sure what you're asking about the fillet on the mount.

Gee Emm

Thanks. Duh, I should have realised that was a bleeder.

The two right-angle bends *look* structurally weak to my eyes, I was asking if you had considered a fillet, possibly on the inside of the top one.

Thanks for the quick reply!

fastivab6tg25mr

The tubing is 1/8" wall so it's pretty strong stuff. The exhaust goes in that gap and moves around bit, so space is very limited.

fastivab6tg25mr

More progress, should be doing burnouts by new years! Driveshaft is done, flywheel insert is on its way, just need to finish the hole in the floor and its go time!

fastivab6tg25mr

shifter bezel is done. just waiting on the flywheel insert. my step bit wasnt big enough for the grommet so i made a tapered reamer on the lathe to make a 1.5" hole to pass the wire through.

fastivab6tg25mr

I'm retarded. I didn't bother to check to see clutch master requirements for the hydraulic throw out. after bleeding the system my 5/8 master couldn't disengage the clutch. Turns out I need a 3/4 not a 5/8 master. Luckily Summit delivers next day. It was pretty easy to modify the plate to fit the new Tilton. Just needed to make the middle hole bigger and redrill the mounting holes. Got some 5/8 EPDM heater hose to remount the reservoir. I'm hoping to get it back in the truck at lunch and drive it home tonight.

fastivab6tg25mr

Back on the road and getting the new clutch and tranny broke in before beating on it. I'm glad we don't have winter here in Northern California so it will be ready for abuse in no time.

fastivab6tg25mr

I must have messed up my trackloc when I swapped in the carbon clutches cause I fried the diff pin, so I upgraded to a Detroit TrueTrac helical lsd

fastivab6tg25mr

Sorting out little things that have been bugging me. After the last horn contact I made failed I moved the button to the bottom of the dash. I hated the horn button in the wheel not working so I came up with a new solution. A few pieces of ABS glued together with a GM horn contact repair kit from AutoZone. So far so good but only time will tell. I forgot to take pictures of how it's actually connected. I bent the last coil of the spring straight down, poked it out the bottom, and soldered a wire to it.

fastivab6tg25mr

I swapped to RevShift poly engine mounts. I was noticing a weird surge at low rpm cruise and found the E30/M20 mounts I put in last year were already collapsed my 3/4". I've driven less than 2000 miles on those mounts. They add a lot more vibration but the suge is gone. Still wrapped a seatbelt around the lifting side just in case.

fastivab6tg25mr

With the poly mounts came more vibration. I didn't realize the sealant was missing between the support and the hood skin. A little body sealer quieted it right up.

fastivab6tg25mr

Took a time lapse of making the spring brackets for my exhaust.

No matter how tight I made the clamp the exhaust would move and leak and rattle.

fastivab6tg25mr

More updates: what i thought was going to be a quick sensor swap turned into a huge pain in the ***. I got rid of my VR to square wave adapter and went with a Tick Performance hall sensor that goes directly into the Tremec TKX. After installing it I found that the MS3X has a VSS frequency limitation of around 500htz so it worked great until about 40mph then it went to 0mph. The solution I came up with was to turn down the sensor housing to put it in the diff to pick up on the 8.8s ABS ring. Turns out the ABS ring teeth are too small to register with the sensor. I then had to pull the diff, put a big ol booger weld making one big tooth to make the 1/4"x1/4"x1/4" cube for reliable sensor pick up. While I was welding it up I found the Timkin bearings for the 8.8 stick too far through the race and were hitting the carrier bearing shims. On the plus side since the bearing were off I was able to put the diff in the lathe and clean up the sensor tooth profile. I replaced the bearings and shims with the ones from Ford Racing. Got to set accurate preload of my new bearings with my new diff spreader. But to use the diff spreader I had to make adapter. After all that I now have a diff that is preloaded properly with bearings that don't rub the shims, and a speedometer that works accurately. What a pain in the *** these last few weeks have been.







On the plus side I did wash it for the first time in a very long time and take it to a local car show. It's fun to watch a bunch of old Hot Rodders stare at my engine bay in confusion and not comprehend how my 2.0 makes more power than their big block.