I say over-engineer it. Grab an air compressor tank filled with compressed air and run a solenoid to activate the line to open up into your oil lines. Problem solved. Correct oil pressure when at full WOT.

And with that...time to go to bed.

Oh, I didn't realize there was no oil passage behind the boss in that location. If that's the case, I'm not even going to consider it.

I've seen oil feeds around the back, around the front, around the front behind the timing belt and even over the top of the vlave cover. To completely honest, I don't like any of them. The only one I've really "liked" is JKav's but I'm not entirely sold on VVT at the moment so I don't have that as an oil source.

As much as I hate to admit it, the back-of-the-head port is the most sanitary thing I've seen to date. You have no idea how very, very tempted I am to try it, I'm just not sure I have the stones.

lol@Jeffbucc, don't tempt me to overthink this anymore than I already have.

I think, the only way you could make it look OEM or really fit in well, is to get a hard line bent that follows the passenger front brake hard line along the firewall to the master cylinder, -4an off that into your oil feed on the turbo. Your braided line would only be 10-15" that way.

Actually, that is genius.

Funny you should mention that...

I've been thinking about taking one of the Spec Miata Oil Pressure Sender relocation kits, like this one:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412522569

and coming off one of the side ports, running along the firewall, and then around into the turbo. If the block above does not have enough ports, I can always attempt to build my own. I need 2x 1/8" NPT for oil pressure and oil low pressure sender, plus whatever for the turbo. I have drills and taps, and I can probably get access to a mill through a friend or through work. It probably won't be pretty, but it will be functional.

Vlad is right, I'll probably just end up running the boring, proven -4 from the gauge port. :loser:

Hell, I'm running it and still getting the minimum, in spec 12 psi at idle.

I used a -6an for the feed. Also made a remote sender using a $5 grease gun hose and tee.

That was just following the efr tech brief but full-race said that the turbo is pretty robust, an evo customer was running theirs at 100psi oil pressure and it was fine without any additional restrictors.

I read the oil sections of the EFR installation DOC. It is almost humorous how they extoll all of the virtues of the ceramic bearings' ability to withstand low flow, high heat, high thrust; the use of the internal restrictor to maintain low flow; and then read how cautious one must be to supply oil during start-up at low temperature. If BW is that confused, how will we sort it out?

I'v been running about 4K miles on my back-of-the-head feed, but that is on a miniature TD04 that I have a total of $240 in.

Even if you go flex all the way, you could still route it along the firewall and not have to support it all over the back of the engine. It would only be a touch longer than the shortest possible. Ehh, for nice radii, would still be better to transition to hard line.

To be completely honest, my personal favorite for those not fortunate enough to have a 94-95 or msm block is from the head under the exh cam. Most specifically how nitrodann did it with a custom hardline. Probably the cleanest install there is. But I'm sure you've already read my big 'ol thread about this very topic and in the end I was still too chicken to take my chances with that location.

Yep, I read it and believe I participated in it, and I'm still considering it. The engine will have a Boundary Pump with +1 shim, so extra pressure and volume on tap. If I follow through with this, I'll probably open up the head-to-block oil restrictor eeeeeever so slightly.

Bitchen'! I appreciate the data points. I'm assuming you ran the -6 off the 1/8"BSP port? Seems like a hell of a restriction, but it is the "right way" I guess.

Skunk2 TB Update:
I called them back again, and I think I got the one guy in there who knows what the hell I'm talking about. He solicited pictures, confirmed he received them and seemed to know exactly what I was talking about. He actually looked at the links I send him and rather than just "yeah, yeah, I'll take a look tomorrow" he ran downstairs and found the parts and confirmed my information. I don't want to get my hopes up too far, but they should go in the mail today. Maybe, just maybe I can actually use this $325 throttle body after sitting on since January of 2013 :loser:

*cough* RTV Black *cough*

RTV Black WHAT exactly? Troll harder :party:

For your gasket! I am trolling though, do it right with a nice piece like that...ain't no 99 throttle body like on my car.

ok, I see what's going on here...

This is a Skunk2 throttle body:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412795705
Notice how there is no spacer underneath the throttle body? See next image.


Skunk2 TB setup for 94-97 TB:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412795705
Notice the spacer?

94-97 IACV & TPS mount:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1412794947
This is the spacer alone

94-97 Idle Valve:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412795705
because it needs to match this IACV.


Skunk2 TB setup for 99-05 TB:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412795705
Notice that the spacer is different?

99-05 IACV mount:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1412794947
This is what it looks like alone

99-05 Idle Valve:
http://product-images.highwire.com/3...alen99h442.jpg
because it needs to match this IACV

¿yo soy comprende mi amigo?

Not sure if I missed, it but what was the final verdict on those motor mounts? Did they get much better or do they still rattle the car like crazy?

last time I was near the car he was on his 5th orgasm during the 15 minutes we were in the parking lot.

he refused to shut the car off and get out.


:giggle:

I've just spent too much time trying to read through your thread to find which mounts you have. I was unsuccessful.

What are they again?

Accessories & Hardware : Performance Engine Mounts

The 70D ones

Thanks. Oi. 70D huh? Me no likey.

They are in fact 70D, and they are coming out. I'm well past the 500 mile break in and while they did get slightly better, they are more than I want to deal with.

Are they fucking awesome engine mounts? Yes.

Are they too much for me? Oh, you betcha.

Am I a wuss? Unashamedly.

Are they really THAT bad? Probably not.

My problem is that they make my car sound like a 145hp dildo with a shitload of #10 cans bolted to it whenever I'm stopped at a stoplight. You heard it, you know what I'm talking about. Once it gets moving its not that bad at all, and when at the track its a non issue and they are god damn amazing. Shifter NEVER moves. Question is... how much time do I spend on the track?

The only reason I haven't put the MazdaComps in the car is the "cup" parts of the stock mounts are lost somewhere in Gessos garage from when we swapped my motor before he moved. I still haven't decided if I want to get rid of the 70D ones for good. To this end I gave Gesso first right of refusal on them for his Exocet because NVH = LOL in that particular vehicle and it keeps them local if I decide the MazdaComps + ES Polly Diff bushings aren't "enough" for me anymore.