I told you to just order the ladyboys locally

Tracking numbers are how a bro gets caught.

Cash local pickups only man!

I was unaware Lake Forest had such a reputation :rofl:

The first box from Summit came in:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1428087547
DEI heat sheath for the turbo drain, -10 drain adapter, some -6 to 14x1.5mm adapters for coolant, 1/2"NPT weld bung for the pan and a -10 to 1/2"NPT nipple.

EDIT: That's not the correct -10 drain adapter, so don't bother with it. I'll post up one that fits further along in the thread.

I decided to go with the 1/2"NPT because it seemed like a better idea than welding a male AN fitting to the pan. With my luck, I'd bump it against something and ruin the AN and then I'd try to slit my wrists. The NPT to AN adapter just felt much, much safer. Due to its length and the design of the manifold/downpipe, the center line for the drain is almost exactly where FM recommends for their kits, so I'll be using that location this time. Now I just need to get the bung to Gesso so he can use his magical plasma wrench to bind it to the pan.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1428087547
These are the Fragola AN adapters I'll be using on the turbo. The Fragola catalog specifically states that these need 14mm sealing washers but this is not mentioned anywhere on the part description on Summit's website. It makes sense as all the fittings on the turbo had similar seals. These are made of aluminum where as the ones Borg Warner uses on the CHRA water port plugs are copper. I wish they were copper but this will have to do.

BTW, I really like the Fragola brand. They appear to be a very high quality fitting with very even surface finishes, clean threads and consistent anodizing. Bonus points for being made in the USA. Other than the odd Russell fitting (like the turbo drain) everything I'm using is either Mocal or Fragola.

Fire sleeve, hose and fittings for the rest of the drain will be arriving some time next week from RPW. Psyber was kind enough to sell me his coolant and oil fitting stuff to get me started for the rest of the plumbing, now I just need to figure out how to finish it off. I'll be super glad once I get the plumbing sorted out, then I can obsess and lose sleep about some other aspect of this shitshow :giggle:

What is the "FM recommended location"? The front of the pan next to the AC compressor, or the center between the subframe and the motor mount?

If you're using the center, or the front with no AC, you might want to consider using a 45 degree AN-to-NPT fitting instead of the straight one to minimize the distance the oil has to travel with no gravity assist. Something like this:

http://www.codrus.com/miata/fm2r/dra...-installed.jpg

--Ian

Yep, the FM location below the AC bracket. Because of the length of the EFR the CHRA ends up closer to the centerline of cylinder 1, rather than kinda between 2 and 3 like with the FM/Garrett combo. The location in your pic would actually put a slope in the line to the rear with the EFR. Below the AC bracket is almost a straight shot down. The damn turbo is silly long. No AC on my car so its not something that's super worrisome at this point.

Thanks for the advice on the drain. I'm doing the same thing but in a slightly different order I guess. I've got a 45° -10 hose end on the way to match up to the 1/2"NPT to -10 adapter coming out of the pan. I didn't want to fight trying to clock a 45° adapter with NPT threads, usually because I fail at that game. If it ends up being too long or something else stupid I can always go with the 45° adapter as you have done. Its just a couple more fittings. ;)

Shiny new parts. Mmmmmmmmm . . . .

Nice layout.

Just another data-point: I used the "FM recommended" location even though my Churbo is closer to the length of a T25 Garrett. I used a 90* 8-AN fitting and line, clocked at 45* to get a pretty straight shot (should it have been 10-AN?) for the oil drain. Since I have no AC or PS, everything fits w/o interference.

The "FM recommended location" is recommended because you can drill it without taking the motor out of the car. It works, but if you have the motor out anyway (and are using something approximately the shape of a Garrett) then putting it between the subframe and the motor mount is better.

5/8" (-10AN) is the usual recommended size for the drain line. 1/2" (-8AN) is probably not going to hurt it, though.

--Ian

No sweat. The pan was already drilled for a FM VooDoo II kit, so I just used what was there and if the smaller oil drain promotes a "premature churbo failure" then that'll be a good excuse to step up to an EFR! ;-)

Interestingly enough, the drain in the EFR CHRA is tapped 3/8"NPT and the documentation states that a simple 3/8"NPT to -8 AN drain line is sufficient. It also gives you the T25 2 bolt flange footprint to bolt whatever flange you want to it, so I went with -10.

This whole shitshow is all about being overbuilt, so why not? :party:

Just a stupid question. Why would the outlet need to be that much bigger then the inlet?? Especially if there's a restrictor in the inlet.

I.E. a 3/8" -8AN should be sufficient right?

:dunno:

4" oil return or go home

and 6" smoke stacks out the hood

because ALLOFIT

Well OK then.

boost controller settings:

ALLOFIT / go home

Fuck, who even NEEDS a wastegate? Bunch of goddamn pansies up in here.

:giggle:

I assume you mean versus the -3 or the -4 feed? The feed side is not only smaller but on the EFR its also heavily restricted, probably down to like 0.040" ~ 0.060" or something.

Bigger drain is better. You don't want oil backing up into the CHRA under any circumstances otherwise you get oil forcing its way past the seals the jacking up the turbo. The feed has the benefit of being driven by the oil pump whereas the drain is 100% gravity so its going to need all the help it can get. This is one of those places where its okay to err on the side of caution and go big with the -10.

it's just so......wasteful

The inlet is pressurized, the outlet is gravity flow. I've also read that the oil has gotten frothy because it's mixed with air after going through the turbo bearing, and as a result it needs a larger hose with as little resistance to flow as possible. Supposedly inadequate oil drain was one of the factors leading to coked-up turbo bearings when they first started appearing on street cars.

A 3/8" NPT fitting is about 11/16" actual external diameter on the pipe. ID depends on the wall thickness, obviously, but it's bigger than 1/2". Garrett suggests that -10 is good, and says not to have a hose that's smaller than the outlet diameter on the CHRA:

Oil & Water Lines | Turbobygarrett

So while I don't know that I'd take the car apart to replace a -8AN line, I wouldn't put a new one together that way.

--Ian