In the video is spun because the tires were cold. They HOOK enough to twist off MSM axles when hot.
This.
40PSI is the most I've run.

 

I wish I could that post at least 10 more times

 

LMK if you see some ID 1700s or 2000's pop up for sale for a deal. The 1300s at 60 PSI run out of fuel at 40 psi.

 

Can't you run higher pressure than 60psi to get some more fuel capacity? I know they are tested to way higher pressures than 60psi. I think they test all the way up to 100 psi.

 

He probably has an atmospheric referenced fuel pressure regulator. Which means when he runs at 40psi of boost, hes running 100psi of fuel pressure.

 

Good point. I wasn't even taking that into account.

EDIT: I just checked ID's site and it says the injectors are rated up to a maximum of 87psi of differential fuel pressure which accounts for atmospheric referenced pressure. So the injectors themselves can be referenced all the way up to 87psi effective fuel pressure. The weak point probably becomes the lines and the rail developing leaks but considering there are vehicles that run way more fuel pressure I am sure this is solvable. Though bigger injectors may be easier and cheaper.

 

He's putting that fuel system to use, that's for sure.
1700's are $$$ though

 

PM me about selling your 1300s Pat

 

Yeah I run the pumps up to 100 PSI at 40 PSI boost. One pump stops pumping at 105 PSI, the other at 110, so can't go any higher on pressure, need bigger injectors.

 

Staged injection really seems like it might be a better choice here...

--Ian

 

You got me thinking actually, I might be able to put a booster pump inline with the other 2 and raise the pressure. I'll have to look into the cost of a pump to do that, and how much flow that would add vs what I get at 60. Probably time for bigger injectors, or as Ian said staged injection.

 

Also the 8.8 showed up today, holy crap that thing looks like it was removed from a dump truck, it's huge. I will never make enough power to break that thing. I'm going to take comparo pics and post them later with it next to a MSM diff. It's LOL beefy.

 

Wheres this photo dump at!! Ive had my towel ready for days now damn

 

I will be selling that FM secondary injector IM here fairly soon. You could run some easy idle 850s or 1000s with your 1300s. Put that rear mount monster to work baby!

 

Pat, how do you avoid wheel hop during burn-out?

 

You gotta keep the wheel speed up. If you spin too slow, it will hop. With the auto, 1st gear on the limiter is 40mph, and that's enough but kind of low. With a 6 speed @ 8,000 in 2nd was much better, it would never hop doing that. 1st gear in a 6 speed always hopped even at 9,000 RPMs, not enough tire speed. My other car with an auto is the same way, hops in 1st, but is perfect in 2nd. That car I just spin them up to 4K in 1st, shift to 2nd, and then lay in it. Street tires, UHP tires, slicks, all do the same thing if wheel speed is too low, it hops.

 

I'm sorry, I've been really busy lately. I will do my best to get some pics up tonight. I still have pics from the trans swap to post!

 

Here, have a picture, but not of Pat's car.



This is what I did almost 3 years ago. I still haven't tested it :( , but it seems fairly sturdy.

 

It depends on the tires and the bushings. Once I went to poly it was easy to do a burnout without wheel hop, even with the 6 speed. But I also have way stiffer sidewalls than what pat runs. Even with poly it was hard to launch without wheel hop.

 

Long overdue, but finally here are some pictures!

Lets start with right after getting the new transmission in. I drove the car and noticed after 1 or 2 test drives it was leaking trans fluid. After making some pulls and turning up the boost, it blew a gasket where the oil pump meets the case on the trans.

Turns out those bolts have to be tight and torqued correctly, who knew? So I got to spend 3 days pulling the trans, and tearing it apart, and buying a gasket, and then finding the gasket I bought was too thin, so I had to make my own out of the right material that's the correct thickness. Since I had to make a gasket, I redesigned it a bit to make the part that broke stronger. Put a nice radius and made it thicker around the perimeter, etc. Also made some studs to hold the gasket in place while I install the pump so the gasket can't shift. A pro tip I found online about gasket failures is to do this to prevent it from moving and getting less support.
























Car put back together


I drove it and on the next test drive, I had the rear turbo oil pump randomly shut itself off after making a pull. Result was oil going into turbine of turbo and smoking a bunch, which lead me to think the motor had a problem. I ended up doing a compression test, found it low, leakdown showed leaky valves, so I pulled the head and got it rebuilt.

Later found the oil pump issue and fixed that. New pump works great.



Pistons were dirty! Cleaned 2 in this pic.



You can see the ceramic coating burning off.















New ARP larger washer installed. Almost covers the entire boss







At some point I blew the dipstick out around 30-35 PSI boost making long pulls. I broke my dipstick a while back and the new one I put in the o-ring is shot and has basically no grab to it. So I modded the valve cover to make it breathe better to reduce crankcase pressure.



































I now have a 1/2" hose hooked to the valve cover. It seems to have helped so far.

I've done some other things, I don't remember everything and these are all the pics I have up to now. I made a catchcan but have not installed it yet, need to do that at some point.

Currently waiting on new axles to get here, and looking into driveshaft specs for the new diff. I might buy a driveshaft if I can get a decent price, otherwise I'll just make my own again. Also going to put driveshaft loops on the new one (rules require, plus safety).

At some point I'm going to build the diff, I'll post some pics of that whenever I get to that. Had to order a couple tools to allow me to measure things when setting it up, waiting on them to get here.


Question: Should I move the rear subframe back a bit to center the rear wheels in the wheel well/ Not sure how hard it would be, but it's something I was thinking of doing. Would increase wheelbase a bit, and allow for more tire clearance, or possibly bigger tires. Looks like just 6 bolts/holes that hold the subframe in.