There is a difference with autotune and EUGO correction.

Don't let it change your MAP, let it do eugo based AFR correction (closed loop o2 vs VEAL).

 

Its EGO correction.

Have you tuned an actual megasquirt?

 

I tuned AEM, though the premise of tuning is the same and is what OEM's apply with new systems.

Set a tuned base map, allow wideband closed loop tuning to fine tune based on what its seeing. You don't want your fuel map changing every time you drive it- you can be correcting for things like an o2 sensor going out, changes in humidity, fuel octane, etc.

Autotune should only be used for quickly getting an accurate base tune.

*I'm by no means a tuning expert, but I know a few things and Im willing to learn more. Just putting my 2 cents in*

 

I thought about updating the firmware, but I didn't want to screw something up. I'll read up on it.

 

Nobody has said he should be autotuning all the time. The point here is that if autotune is ******* up his map, and TS is reading differently from what the WB02 is reading, he should fix that - because EGO won't work right and will make incorrect fuel trim adjustments.

It's scary the first time, but if you follow the steps you will be fine. Unplug dem COPS too

 

I flashed new firmware this weekend and loaded a basemap. After fighting with it all day Sunday, the car made the 24 mile drive to work this morning. I'm getting an occasional loss of sync that wasn't happening before the firmware update. It's nothing I notice driving the car, but it's being logged.

The car was also hitting a rev limiter at 6000rpms. I turned on a CLT based rev limiter that I suspect was causing the issue, so I turned it off to see if it's gone on the drive home this evening.

I attached the tune and log if anyone has suggestions regarding the sync loss or any other suggestions.

 

Researched it a little, looks like loss of sync reason:

38 = 4G63

So it's Cam Sensor related, which is pretty much expected I guess. Maybe it's time to work on getting the crank sensor set up.

 

Failing cam sensor? Mine runs great on CAS with no loss of sync and whatnot, however going to a crank/trigger setup is beneficial anyways and if you have the parts and the technology, go for it.

 

I wouldn't think it's the cam sensor since the issue just started with the new firmware, but who knows. On the drive home yesterday I got "reason 2 - missing tooth at wrong time", but it still drives fine. Hopefully the CAS is ok since I believe I will need it to eventually run sequential injection.

I picked up my hardtop and spoiler yesterday from being painted. They came out great... so nice that now the rest of the car looks like crap, but at least I saw that coming. It was dark by the time I made it home but I took a couple crappy pics in the garage.





I also relocated the headlights to the turn signals. Still have to mount the blinkers, but the headlights work well enough. I'd like to upgrade them to projectors later, but for now I'm satisfied. I removed the stock headlights, motors, and some of the extra weight. The plan is to eventually remove all of the exiting headlight bracketing and mount the headlight covers directly to the hood. I found a writeup online for the headlights that I roughly followed if anyone is interested: Keith's Page de Home

 

More details on the headlight conversion? Can you get a picture at night showing the cutoff, intesity of the light, etc? Pretty awesome, you probably will drop a good 20# from the front of the car without the motors, lights, housings, etc. Noice.

 

That's what I intend on doing with my race project.

Details! (including what you used for the lights). cant find **** on that website.

 

Haha, i tried too. Terrible website.

I've seen this done using "PIAA" driving lights before that fit in the oval where the oem lights went. Never seen it done by just adding lights to the turn signal housings, seems like it'd melt them.

 

I'll try to get some better pictures. The lights are pretty terrible though. They appear bright outside the car (on-coming traffic) but you can't see crap from inside the car. The area I live in is pretty well lit and I didn't feel like it was an issue at all, then picking up the hardtop last night I had to drive through some dark areas and realized how bad they are.

I had clear ebay turn signals to start with. I used 9006 headlight bulbs and harnesses from the junkyard. They ALMOST fit in the blinker bulb hole; I had to dremmel a little, then got pissed off and just hot glued them in place. Then I clipped the stock plugs off and ran the low beam and ground wires to the new harness. It's ghetto, but it worked, sortof. I haven't had any issues with them melting so far.

I definitely need to make some changes but I feel like it was a good start.

 

ah yeah, that would suck.


I was thinking of getting something like a driving light kit and mount it behind a gutted turn signal.

 

That's the direction I see myself taking in the future.

 

Maybe something like this might give the bulb a better focal point to allow the brightness to travel further. IDK just a thought might not work for ****.

 

Isn't it about time to take this thing to Bradenton?

 

Look in the mirror and say that.

 

well played

 

Believe me, I do....regularly.

Don't you have an air conditioner that needs hooking up?