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i eventually went to a 1.8L clutch and stock 1.8 flywheel. I personally prefer a heavier flywheel...
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From my understanding, the MS3X has rock solid alternator control for the NB which essentially eliminates the stalling AC issue. That is my only complaint about my light flywheel which I believe is 10lbs. It won't stall 99% of the time but it would drop lower than I like before oscillating back up.
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I had to compensate with a higher base idle and a lot of fiddling with dashpot settings and other BS to get the MS1 not to stall occasionally when the AC compressor and Spal fan engaged. I eventually added a delay relay for the fan to stagger activation by a couple of seconds.
I have a MS3 Basic about to go into the car so we'll see how it changes things. |
Originally Posted by Ryan_G
(Post 1395803)
From my understanding, the MS3X has rock solid alternator control for the NB which essentially eliminates the stalling AC issue. That is my only complaint about my light flywheel which I believe is 10lbs. It won't stall 99% of the time but it would drop lower than I like before oscillating back up.
I know a 13lb flywheel is 'heavy' as far as lightweight flywheels go, but I'm just trying to figure out how big of a difference it's going to make or if I'm better off trying to sell the thing for 150 and use it in the wheels/tires budget instead, for instance.
Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1395822)
I had to compensate with a higher base idle and a lot of fiddling with dashpot settings and other BS to get the MS1 not to stall occasionally when the AC compressor and Spal fan engaged. I eventually added a delay relay for the fan to stagger activation by a couple of seconds.
I have a MS3 Basic about to go into the car so we'll see how it changes things. |
Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1395822)
I had to compensate with a higher base idle and a lot of fiddling with dashpot settings and other BS to get the MS1 not to stall occasionally when the AC compressor and Spal fan engaged. I eventually added a delay relay for the fan to stagger activation by a couple of seconds.
I have a MS3 Basic about to go into the car so we'll see how it changes things. |
actually, the rock solid alternator control can cause idle issues or at least it's not necessarily better in this regard.
for example, on an NA when the load increases and voltage drops once the a/c is activated, the MS can react to that using the voltage compensation table. When using the solid NB alternator control, there's no drop in voltage, so you can't use that additional input to compensate the idle valve with -- it still has to rely solely on the PID code to react to the deviance from the idle target. same thing with other electrical loads like lowering windows, or flipping up headlights. in either case, the rpm target when the a/c is engage should be bummed a bit, and you can have the valve open up with activation. |
10lb (or less)fw or gtfo.
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Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 1395868)
actually, the rock solid alternator control can cause idle issues or at least it's not necessarily better in this regard.
for example, on an NA when the load increases and voltage drops once the a/c is activated, the MS can react to that using the voltage compensation table. When using the solid NB alternator control, there's no drop in voltage, so you can't use that additional input to compensate the idle valve with -- it still has to rely solely on the PID code to react to the deviance from the idle target. same thing with other electrical loads like lowering windows, or flipping up headlights. in either case, the rpm target when the a/c is engage should be bummed a bit, and you can have the valve open up with activation. Electrical loads and P/S rely on steep Advance correction with RPM error for good action. The A/C is also aided by Advance Correction if you tell Idle to be bumped with A/C. In other words, when A/C is called for, the idle valve will open, but the idle target RPM is also bumped (can be). The Advance Correction then immediately comes into play, along with the IAC. Together they add power to idle that, with the delay to the clutch, works magic. EDIT: Same can be done with Fan Activation. |
Megasquirt doesn't love me. Brain's going to try to convince it otherwise.
Sadly, this means that I'm going to have to study more instead of going downstairs to tinker when I'm crosseyed from studying. Hm. Maybe that's why megasquirt doesn't like me... |
Looks like Brain got the MS to behave again and made sure that the stock tune didn't get corrupted when I updated firmware, so thats good.I think i should have it back by midweek and be able to start things up.
I'm feeling a bit stuck though... I take boards this year and thought I'd get an extension till late may due to medical issues I've had that are finally sorted....like my grades have gone up by 20+% in my classes which feels awesome. School just let me know that they don't grant extensions till april 10 and they want me to plan to take the exam in April just in case which i think is a terrible idea. So this isnt a priority right now, though Im hopeful that the extension will come through. A few friends have offered to help do the install over a weekend, but theres a bunch of other things that need doing as well before we pull the engine to do things en masse. My plan right now, once the car is running is to tackle things like the injectors (DIY FF), fuel pump (walbro 255hplp...overkill?), make the DIY billy, install sport fronts (and maybe rear adapters), clutch slave cylinder, interfooler, and get the roll bar in. I can plug away on these things for a couple of hours a day when im going stir crazy. I figure that as a worst case scenario I'll get more tuning experience and have a fun NA car. I'm also not opposed to putting everything together and running things super low boost (3-5) psi and staying there till i can plug away and get this thing sorted. I'd appreciate any input on what folks think a reasonable way forward would be. |
Right thing to do? Ignore the forum and the car and study, lol.
DW fuel pump is quiet and not a power hog. |
Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1397218)
Right thing to do? Ignore the forum and the car and study, lol.
DW fuel pump is quiet and not a power hog. Studying too much will make me go crazy. Gotta keep things in balance. It's legitimately not possible to learn after 10-12 hours a day. I can probably put in 2-3 hrs of work a day if I play my cards right, or take a day off every weekend if I'm a good boy during the week. Is the walbro really loud? I'm still unsure if the 255lphp is overkill for things now. I might leave it out till later depending on what happens. Apparently, it's not THAT bad re:noise and using an additional cover helps. https://www.miataturbo.net/general-m...o-255-a-47894/ Also, would I be wrong to assume and enter stock timing into the MS? I ran the car with the stock ECU right before the swap, so the timing should be the same right? Stock is 10 afaik. How are you feeling btw? Hope the vertigo is letting up! |
I can't hear the DW except when priming the injectors. Walbro 190 not so much.
My brain is accommodating the lack of left side balance as much as it can. It is better. If I shake my head "no" while walking then I lose balance and have to take a drunk step or two. That means I'm ready for Road Atlanta, right? |
the 255 noise is bad.
dont worry about a FP until you need a FP. |
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 1397291)
the 255 noise is bad.
dont worry about a FP until you need a FP. Re: http://miataturbo.wikidot.com/fuel-pump The 99-00 miata, with no return line, is noted as having fuel pressure drop towards redline from that factory. These miatas fuel at a constant 60psi of fuel regardless of pressure conditions inside the manifold, however it seems with forced induction, and even high powered N/A builds, the stock pump is not enough. The 255 HP model is the only model that has been noted to maintain the pressure at redline. |
This is the part where I tell you "yes, what you posted is true, buy a 255...I know from experience" but you buy something different anyway.
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Originally Posted by thirdgen
(Post 1397317)
This is the part where I tell you "yes, what you posted is true, buy a 255...I know from experience" but you buy something different anyway.
I have no issues using it, I just don't want it to be whining right behind my head every time I drive the car. My tinnitus is annoying enough lol. |
Originally Posted by ridethecliche
(Post 1397447)
I have the 255lph hp already. Was thinking of selling and getting a dw 200 for noise reasons.
I have no issues using it, I just don't want it to be whining right behind my head every time I drive the car. My tinnitus is annoying enough lol. gotcha, yeah i wrote that like well before DW came out with a pump. by all reports it works well and not noisy like the walbros. |
I updated the megasquirt AEM thread I started a week or so ago here: https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...d-92322/page2/
Long story short, I still don't have a wideband signal. I bought the unit used on the classifieds here and I'm wondering if the seller sold me a dud. Pasting from the other thread: Update: Brain fixed the issue on the megasquirt so I think that variable has been excluded. It's still not working... Here's what I know: the gauge unit itself will power up when connected to the battery. The display turns on, so that should be okay. Will an issue with the sensor cause the gauge to not display a reading? This is what I tried today. I wired the wideband into the 12v source on the megasquirt. Nothing. I then used an add-a-fuse circuit to add the wideband. Still nothing. I switched the add-a-fuse to the radio to make sure it was working. The radio and gauges powered through the radio work, but the wideband display doesn't turn on. On the first page, there was a brown wire that may have been a second ground. I spliced that to the main ground (black wire) for the gauge and used butt connectors to connect that to the ground off the megasquirt. Still nothing. At most, the gauge blinks on for a split second sometimes but tit's legitimately for a split second. I bought it used off a user here that said it was only run for an hour. I messaged him earlier to double check and see if he ever actually got it reading. I'm hoping it wasn't a bum unit. At this point, I might just order another unit, which is going to friggin hurt... A friend is letting me borrow his wideband for the weekend and it is also an AEM unit, but one level down from the x-series. If the connectors are compatible, I'm going to try to swap head units to see if that's what's causing the issue, otherwise I might just order a new one on amazon or something so it's here early next week. To add some icing to the cake, my battery finally died today after putting up with me for hours of this shenanigans. I tried jump starting the car to see if the wideband was giving a signal at all, and no dice. Any advice would be appreciated. Even if it is to suck it up and dish out 175 bucks more after paying someone 150 for what may be a dud unit. I'm really hoping that's not the case but... |
I had a dream last night that my coolant thermometer stopped working and then my engine started overheating and then I came home and found coolant in my oil. I've got to stop working on cars late at night lol.
In other news, I disconnected the O2 sensor from the gauge. The gauge powers on adequately. Called AEM and they got me to walk through a few things anddddd it turns out the gauge is busted. |
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