Nothing wrong with that at all, not sure why yer panties are in a bunch about it.

 

Had a total brown stain moment yesterday when I hit boost in the rain without meaning to while going up a hill. Almost broke things... Got away with damage to a wheel I don't care much about, a small bump on my noggin, a very unamused girlfriend that was certain the megasquirt was trying to kill us, and a bruised ego.

Lesson learned.

I was honestly shocked at how little damage there was for how loud things sounded. I'll likely be fine with an alignment. Car drove fine 50 miles home. Going to put 300 on it tomorrow. No rain in the forecast.

Well, at least I fixed the oil leak...

Anyone in the NJ area selling a set of stock wheels with tires that have decent tread left?
​​

 

I appreciate that the newest thread title implies that I had some to begin with.

Thank you admin overlords!

 

So your horrible wheels are being retired?

Fun story, the very first miata I had, when I was like 16/17, I thought I was hot **** and the car was fully stock with some old *** 600 treadwear tires and the rears (little to my knowledge) were pretty bald. I hit up a corner too fast, immediately lost the rear, spun it and caught it before heading into oncoming traffic my girlfriend (still with me surprisingly ) and then came to a stop backward on the side of the road.

I think a lot of us have been there lol.

 

When I bought my car the rear tires were pretty worn, easy to kick out around turns, but usually pretty predictable easy to control before getting in trouble. But one night I was out right at the start of a light rain, right when the roads are at the slickest point, and there's this nice right turn, yield condition, onto a four lane road (two lanes in my direction) so i took it at a decent pace and got on the gas at the exit just a tad too early, did a complete 360, ended up pointing the correct direction, right in the middle of the lane and just kept going like, yes obviously I meant to do that. It was fortunate there were no other cars nearby. I got new tires in short order. Of course, the difference is I'm old enough to know better!

 

the curb did you a huge favor. you could get daisies and they'd still look less ugly than what you had

 

I'm actually on the fence about picking up a set of the stock 15's or 16's from the NA/NB (or even the ND!) or trading my 15x9's for a set of 15x8's with good tires on them so I can daily them on decent all seasons/summers. I love the advanti S1s, but paying 500-600 for tires every 2 years would hurt. Isn't the life expectancy of 200 tw 225's like.... 8-10k miles?

As a side note:
1) I think my more worn tires are actually on the rear right now. Mightttt fix that before driving back to PA tomorrow.
2) This is also why I didn't want to turn the boost up all the way to the max the stock internals can handle. I've been driving for a long time, but all the cars have been econoboxes. Driving a light rwd that actually has ***** requires a totally different skill set. I can be a lazy driver with the subaru. AWD legit takes the stress out of most driving conditions. Especially with dedicated winter tires in the snow.

Interestingly, there is a set of these exact wheels on craigslist right now. Maybe I should just buy those to **** all of you off.



But yeah... They're ******* heinous.

 

Let me help you out.

https://flic.kr/p/UQPwnF
https://flic.kr/p/Typ727

 

 

HAWT

 

This shouldn't really surprise anyone, but my rear wheel bearing is pissed off. Weird huh?

Hoping to limp the car home a few hours to PA tomorrow... Crossing my fingers that it holds together. It's not all that loud yet, but it's going to need to be addressed soon.

So, I was looking a few things up and it looks like it's a pain in the *** to do a rear wheel bearing. I know I don't have the tools or time to do it myself, so I was wondering if it might make sense to just swap out the entire hub AND wheel bearing assembly. Should even out pretty quickly given shop labor for the job. Thoughts?

Would it just be this sucker and a rear wheel bearing.
Hub spindle assembly: More Information for DORMAN 930550

Also, I think I improved the wheel design.

 

Get to sleep, so you might pass your tests. Otherwise you might not be able to afford to fix all that stuff. Don't come back until you're an MD.

That's a scary thought

 

 

I'm driving home to PA tomorrow morning to study for 3 weeks. Won't have a garage or tools so the only time I can work on the car is when I'm taking a study break and @stefanst lets me come over and play. I'm already passing my practice tests and my scores have gone up a ton. I have 3 weeks to dial it in to hit my targets. I'm pretty amped about it to be honest. It's a pretty big luxury to be able to have 3 weeks all to myself to focus on one thing only and take breaks because I've earned them.

The reason I have this car and not my subaru (which I daily) is because my GF's car got totaled when an idiot railed into it at a stop because he dropped something while driving and decided to duck down and pick it up. She's starting nursing school this week and I thought the added stress of looking for a replacement car while doing so would be less than ideal.

So, I got the miata fixed up and running so I could take that home. My little sister is studying abroad for a the year, so we have her car at home. I can drive that around when I'm there. There's no rush to get the miata running at 100% till I have the time.

Looks like NAPA has the hub/spindle and a wheel bearing for ~90 bucks together. Rock auto looks to be about 40 for the dorman parts for both.

 

Replacing both pieces instead of just the wheel bearing is only really going to save you a few minutes with a dremel, if you want to replace the hub/spindle, by all means, go for it, but it's not that much of a time saver. If you could get the whole assembly already put together, bearing housing, bearing, and spindle, that would save some time. But I don't think anybody sells that, unless buy used, and buying a used bearing seems a big silly. I did both my rears a while back if you have any questions, I might even have some pictures, I aspired to a write up but I never got around to it.

 

I found this for sale at planet miata.

http://www.planet-miata.com/index.php?section=search-item&idn=207

It's 200 for the full assembly though, so I'm not sure where the balance ends up re: cost.

 

I just paid $90 shipped for two Dorman rear hubs, Timken bearings, Timken retainers, and Timken seals from Rockauto. Both sides, if that helps your decision at all.

 

Not worth it for a used bearing, you can probably pull the whole assembly and take it and the bearing to a shop and have them press everything out and back in again for cheap. I pulled and reinstalled the hubs on mine myself and paid about $15 per side to have the bearings pressed out and back in to the housing. If you don't have a press I highly recommend doing this, I wasted a ton of time trying to whack the stupid thing about before I ended up taking it to the shop.

 

I think the bearing and spindle are new on those. Treasure coast sells them too.

http://treasurecoastmiata.com/i-22936878-rebuilt-miata-rear-upright-knuckle-and-hub.html

I see what you're saying actually. Unfortunately I'm down to one car in MA and don't have a lift or stands at my parents place.

Stefanst had offered to teach me to build and install the DIY billies so that's the next time the car will be on stands. If I have the entire assembly together at that point, I might be able to install it then since that wouldn't take very long. Taking everything apart and running around to a shop etc would be a hard sell since I won't be mobile.

I may have a shop do the clutch. If that happens, I might be able to get a deal on everything. Or maybe I could buy a used knuckle and have everything done to that and then swap that out in the end. Unfortunately I don't have the luxury of time for the next 3 weeks. Might get a few days then, but I don't want to risk waiting that long. Id rather just have a working car for now. I can suck it up and pay...

 

Ah.. gotcha, I didn't check the link. It might be the best option, given your limitations. Know that the hub nut can be a SOB to get off. I ended up getting 3/4 drive breaker bar, plus a 4' steel pipe.My 1/2 drive breaker bar was flexing a ton, but probably would have worked with the bar.