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I cannot recommend the FM2 , from my experience. I am probably at similar power and it slips so bad after just 5k miles, that I dont even drive the car anymore. A really expensive clutch that sucks, will probably be the final straw for a turbo part out for me.
I'm honestly pretty curious about the 949 sprung Puck and would like to support them but I'm under the impression that it's not the right tool for the job.
What about competition clutch? Their stage 3/3.5 clutch or stage 4 sprung Puck?
Originally Posted by sixshooter
XTSS is very streetable, has very smooth engagement but holds enough power to break a 6-speed.
Says it's only good for 315 crank? Or did you mean a different one.
Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit
I cannot recommend the FM2 , from my experience. I am probably at similar power and it slips so bad after just 5k miles, that I dont even drive the car anymore. A really expensive clutch that sucks, will probably be the final straw for a turbo part out for me.
Yeah... I kinda feel that way too. But then I ask around and everyone recommends it because they've run it for 15-20k miles on setups making more power than mine...
Honestly I wouldn't have had any issues just replacing the friction disk but the pressure plate is toast... Didn't you resurface yours?
Originally Posted by turbofan
I have a vote!
Eh?
Last edited by ridethecliche; 04-04-2019 at 09:26 AM.
315 foot pounds of crank torque is what they are willing to advertise it will consistently hold. I have reason to believe the manufacturer is conservative on that rating.
I messed up my transmission at around 330 wheel horsepower on the track, no idea what sort of "crank horsepower" that would be or what kind of crank torque that would be. That clutch served me for 8 years of sometimes highly aggressive engagement. When I sold it used there was significant life left in it.
As with all Competition Clutch products (FM, Supermiata, CC) there's an adjustment procedure that has to be done to ensure longevity after break in. That being said, it's still hilarious that Flyin Miata still advertises that there have been no 4 cylinder miatas that have managed to slip their FM2, which I have done, as well as many others even after following aformentioned adjustments. I sent it back to Competition Clutch for analysis, and they simply said nothing is wrong...it was overpowered.
If you're under 400 ft/lb of torque, the FM should work, but there have been more failures reported recently on FB. Not sure if it's quality control or the number of turn key 350+hp miata's that are now commonplace.
FM2 was my favorite clutch because it worked for me until I asked for more. The twin disk gets the job done, and I trust it to hold.
Yeah... FM said it looked like the instructions had been followed based on diagnostics they wanted me to do so it wasn't because things weren't engaging/disengaging incorrectly.
I like the modulation of the FM2 quite a bit, but I'd really like to not have to do this again before the end of residency if I can avoid it. I guess I could always pay to have it done in the future, but that would require spending 1-1.5k for a clutch and labor. I'd rather just get something that I know will last. Realistically, I'm probably only going to be driving the car around at 300-330hp on the street because that's more than fast enough for me. That would likely be in the realm of 270-300 rwtq afaik.
Did you get oil on the disk? As I recall, you had a pretty bad leak in the rear main seal? Did you use sealer on the flywheel bolts like the FSM says? Not loctite but sealer.
Did you get oil on the disk? As I recall, you had a pretty bad leak in the rear main seal? Did you use sealer on the flywheel bolts like the FSM says? Not loctite but sealer.
No leak in the RMS. It was a leak in the side of the oil pan (UV confirmed) so it was going back from there and looked like it was everywhere.
Did not use sealer on the flywheel bolts. Thought they just needed to be loctited. People put RTV on them too?
I'm honestly pretty curious about the 949 sprung Puck and would like to support them but I'm under the impression that it's not the right tool for the job.
I'm confused by this statement. What makes our sprung puck clutch not the right tool for the job? Not trying for a hard sell or anything, just seeing if I'm missing something. 340wtq rating.
I'm confused by this statement. What makes our sprung puck clutch not the right tool for the job? Not trying for a hard sell or anything, just seeing if I'm missing something. 340wtq rating.
Wait. Since when do you work for 949?
The FM2 is rated for more torque and I haven't really seen any reviews of the 949 sprung puck being put through the paces at higher hp. Its 340tq at the crank right?
I just wasn't sure if it would actually hold... I called a month or two ago when i first had things apart and the person that answered was like "it might hold it might not" which didn't really seem like a ringing endorsement.
If you have any other info don't hold out! I'm leaning towards just getting the FM2 again because it still seems like the go to other than the twin disk, but I'm happy to be convinced otherwise! I've never driven a puck clutch before so I'm a bit leery of that but the car isn't a DD so whatever.
Did not use sealer on the flywheel bolts. Thought they just needed to be loctited. People put RTV on them too?
FSM says to use sealer, not loctite. Only need to torque to spec. Loctite isn’t a sealer and the bolt hole goes all the way through the crank flange. You’re not the first I suspect.
The FM2 is rated for more torque and I haven't really seen any reviews of the 949 sprung puck being put through the paces at higher hp. Its 340tq at the crank right?
I just wasn't sure if it would actually hold... I called a month or two ago when i first had things apart and the person that answered was like "it might hold it might not" which didn't really seem like a ringing endorsement.
If you have any other info don't hold out! I'm leaning towards just getting the FM2 again because it still seems like the go to other than the twin disk, but I'm happy to be convinced otherwise! I've never driven a puck clutch before so I'm a bit leery of that but the car isn't a DD so whatever.
And you did readjust according to instructions? It wasn't until Vlad started tweaking my tune and I was hitting 30 psi when slipped for me after 8000 miles. The clutch was still usable, just not for that torque
The FM2 is rated for more torque and I haven't really seen any reviews of the 949 sprung puck being put through the paces at higher hp. Its 340tq at the crank right?
I just wasn't sure if it would actually hold... I called a month or two ago when i first had things apart and the person that answered was like "it might hold it might not" which didn't really seem like a ringing endorsement.
If you have any other info don't hold out! I'm leaning towards just getting the FM2 again because it still seems like the go to other than the twin disk, but I'm happy to be convinced otherwise! I've never driven a puck clutch before so I'm a bit leery of that but the car isn't a DD so whatever.
Been working for 949/Supermiata for about a month. I'll be the guy answering phones and emails and such.
Regarding the 340wtq, you're right that it is rated for 340 lb ft. What Dan was getting at is that the torque rating is from the manufacturer, so we can't tell you YES this will hold your power. FM told you that, and they were wrong, and now you're disappointed in FM. We believe our clutch will hold your power, can't guarantee though because I don't know of anyone running our clutch at that power level. Most of our customers at that level are on the twin.
I guess here's how I see it .. you slipped the FM2, others in this thread talked about slipping the FM2.... Why not try something different? As far as the rating goes, it's in the noise. Ours is rated at 340, theirs is 353. 13 lb ft is a difference in advertising, not in actual hold potential.
Been working for 949/Supermiata for about a month. I'll be the guy answering phones and emails and such.
Regarding the 340wtq, you're right that it is rated for 340 lb ft. What Dan was getting at is that the torque rating is from the manufacturer, so we can't tell you YES this will hold your power. FM told you that, and they were wrong, and now you're disappointed in FM. We believe our clutch will hold your power, can't guarantee though because I don't know of anyone running our clutch at that power level. Most of our customers at that level are on the twin.
I guess here's how I see it .. you slipped the FM2, others in this thread talked about slipping the FM2.... Why not try something different? As far as the rating goes, it's in the noise. Ours is rated at 340, theirs is 353. 13 lb ft is a difference in advertising, not in actual hold potential.
Congrats on the new gig!
I'm more disappointed in FM that the PP is knackered. They sell clutch discs for like 150 or so. I wouldn't have been crazy mad if that's what the issue ended up being. Thanks for the info. I'll consider what you said. I have to have surgery tomorrow because I broke my face snowboarding when I tried to make out with a tree so I'll likely move on something later this weekend or early next week when I'm not high on pain meds any longer.
04-04-2019, 08:55 AM
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