turbofan

iTrader: (1)

Indeed. Most people (including myself) running the supermiata sport 1.8 clutches are making somewhere in the mid-to-high 200s wtq. Above 300wtq it's time to go twin disc and accept that the transmission itself is a consumable, or tranny swap.

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

I put maybe 3-4k on the clutch on this motor after installation. Didn't think that warranted readjustment. I wasn't making anywhere near as much power as you!

I may be tempted into going to the dark side for clutches...

psyber_0ptix

iTrader: (4)

I also made less power and it held. It held at 400whp/375tq. I'd think it would have held for you. Twin disk will work for sure.

I'd definitely recommend re-reading the install instructions. Especially steps 13, 21 and the note at the very end.

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

@psyber_0ptix , are you saying your FM2 started slipping, then you re-adjusted per their instructions, then it held? At the same torque level?

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

Wait... Psyber how long did your clutch hold that much torque?

I'd probably be more than happy getting 20-30k out of it at 330 rwhp or so. Sounds do able I think? I mostly drive like a grandma when I'm not doing VD runs or at the dyno. My car rarely sees over 5-5.5k on the street and cuts off at 7k.

psyber_0ptix

iTrader: (4)

Just most people don't bother readjusting after the break in period. It's not a set it and forget it scheme if you want it to last a bit longer. Mine slipped because it was overpowered. That's according to Competition Clutch when I sent it in for analysis. They replaced it free of charge even though it was after the warrantee period. I sold it and bought a twin disk.

It held fine as long as I was on pump gas, around 26psi boost. It slipped when I wanted to play with e85 at 30-32psi.

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

Oh right. I remember when you sold the new one to the guy local to me.

And honestly, if yours was fine all that while mine will prolly make it just fine through residency/fellowship...

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

Ended up getting another FM2. Hopefully this will see me through residency and fellowship.

I ordered some thread sealer for the flywheel bolts just to make sure I don't forget and I ordered what I think is the right size of intake and exhaust studs because I'm missing a few. I might pull all mine off and just swap to the ones I ordered. Hope they hold!

And lastly, ordered a new oil pickup. I bent mine taking the oil pan off and don't want to take any chances. Getting a baffle from someone in the area most.

Two quick questions:

1) I'm going to replace the RMS because I'm doing the oil pan and I want to make damn sure about the clutch. I don't see any UV dye showing up there though, but I'll do it anyway. The other thing is that I don't see any dye on the oil pump under the fms. Should I just let the fms be? I last replaced it a year ago.

2) What was the final verdict for torqueing the arp head studs? I'm using the washers that came in the kit. I recall talking to vtechkiller that there were two different versions of washers and some people used the oem ones? 65 ftlb was the number to shoot for right? I used the lubricant that came with it last time but don't have any more. Is engine oil acceptable?

I think I might have a set of oem replacement arp rod bolts I got by mistake. I can always open the package and just use the lubricant from that. Not like anyone wants them lol.

Here I was thinking that I was going to just refresh the head...

psyber_0ptix

iTrader: (4)

I have a rebuilt head if you want it.

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

And on the subject of slipping clutches, my FM1 seems to have healed itself. I inadvertently turned EBC on when I loaded 1.5.1 FW, and no slip. Can’t explain why. Maybe when the car sat, a little rusting roughed the metal surfaces?

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

Gonna do 65 on the head studs methinks!

I don't need two refreshed heads. Picked mine up from the shop a month ago!

Honestly, I think scotch Brite on the pressure plate, a resurfaced flywheel, and possibly a new friction disc and my fm2 would have run. Like I said it never slipped at 300. Just a little chatter when cold. I was shocked when I saw it...

I would have gone that route but my time is going to be at a premium during training. I won't have the 'easier' schedule that I did as a med student. /shudder

andyfloyd

Im making 301ft/lb at the wheels on a SM Sprung 4 puck and its been rock solid for over a year and about 5k miles.

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

Would it have killed you to post that a couple of weeks ago?

😂😂😂

andyfloyd

LOL, yes I have failed you.

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

Join the club. I've failed me plenty too!

andyfloyd

The reason I went with the puck clutch instead of an FM2 is I believe the puck disk has a lot better friction material and it clamps down pretty hard. I dont know at what point this clutch will ever slip but I would assume around 350wtq which is 400whp territory.

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

You're probably right...

Maybe I should have gone that route, but I was a little worried about driveability. It was likely a non-issue, but if I have trouble with the next FM I'll likely get the SM at some point in the future once longer term reviews come out.

Psyber had good luck with the FM2 at power I have little desire to make so hopefully it'll live long enough to see me through the next couple of years.

andyfloyd

Im sure youll be fine. The puck clutch for those that have never driven one can be a bit of a learning curve. It doesnt like to slip much at all, and can chatter from time to time. Its very grabby. Once you get used to it though its awesome. Each shift feels so strong and positive.

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

This spring has been pretty frustrating life-wise but I'm doing okay. I had an 'off' snowboarding in late march and had to get surgery to put a plate under my eye. Kinda threw off the timeline for everything but it is what it is. I had double vision for a few weeks so it made working on cars pretty hard. This really isn't the year I wanted to have, but sometimes ya gotta just roll with the cards dealt.

I was also hoping to stay in New England but matched for residency in NJ so that move is happening (erm procrastinating on loading the truck right now). I also graduated so theres that.

In other events, the car is running again. Everything is finally together and *fingers crossed* it looks pretty happy. I really need to tune my idle and put some low key miles on the new clutch, but I'm really hoping to take it to the same dyno this summer for another run. I could probably do a run down in NJ but I'd much rather use the same one.

Changes since the car last ran:
-Updated Kraken Kit
-Refreshed head (valve job, shims, etc)
-resealed intake system to fix vacc leak at idle.
-resealed a ton of stuff on the oil feed system
-949 crossflow rad with dual spal fans.
-reman rear calipers
-949 SS brake lines all around
-Hawk HPS pads

Appearance stuff
-Buffed headlights
-Moss hood lift
-Ricey bumper clips to stop front bumper from sagging at the sides
-LRB undertray with side panels
Few other random things.

Earlier in my thread and elsewhere we talk about routing the IC piping behind the headlight on the NB's. The LRB undertray fits with no modifications if one routes things this way. I didn't expect it to work but it does, so that's a pretty huge advantage of this routing. I just need to clean up the bay and paint it to get rid of the little bit of rust that's forming where I cut into the body. Other note is to be super careful with the SS line positioning because the tire and wheel can and will rub on it if you're not careful. That was almost a yikes but crisis averted.

I'm really excited about the 949 crossflow rad and spal fans with the lrb undertray. I'm hoping it fixes my cooling issues so I can drive with the AC on the highway. I think the lack of the undertray coupled with hood vents was the main issue earlier so that should be much better now. I bought the rad used and unfortunately it looks like one of the drain plugs is pretty crooked/cross threaded. It doesn't leak (and I put rtv there because its me) but it's luckily on the side with the radiator hose right next to it so it shouldn't cause any issues if it ends up stuck there permanently.

Looking forward to getting this car back on the dyno in the next big and hopefully hitting the 330-350 mark with it before dialing it down. Crossing my fingers that I can just enjoy the car after that since time to work on projects will be pretty severely limited during residency. Going to try renting a small garage space at a storage area soon so I can store the car and do some minor stuff to it.

I hope everyone else is well. Looking forward to meeting some of the NJ folks!

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Welcome back
Hope your face/eye is ok, that's crazy.