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It is. There's no boost in the car yet, but I just hooked it up for funzies. It'll still show vacc lol. I was doing tubing and wiring so figured I'd just do it all at once.
Oh, nvm. I missed the post right before yours. Yeah, one boost gauge and one wideband. I have an innovate oil pressure/temp sensor going in on the open slot. Getting a coolant temp instead of a boost gauge may have been smarter, but I'll just monitor that on my phone if things are getting wonky. I bought the EFI Bluetooth connector module. I was too scared to wire the Bluetooth thingy in :/
What's a good spot to get a tach signal in the NB1? I've looked things up and i can see that the diag box can work, but it's weird to hook up something that far away for a shift light. I know there's a tach signal going into the cluster too. Can I bum off the signal by attaching a ring connector or something or is the diag slot the best bet?
Use a megasquirt output to power it instead of taking the tach signal. Or use megasquirt tach out
Okay, explain it to me like I'm five...
I followed brain's instructions and added the wideband power to the ms3x. I can power other gauges off the MS3x as well? i'm guessing there are unused connectors in the harness or something? Brain's instructions didn't mention anything about that and while I'm down to read up on stuff, I'm not really sure where to start regarding this.
Appreciate the mini hand holding sesh.
Edit: Just pulled up the MS3x manual. Hoping this isn't something I need to mess with the board for!
You aren't powering the gauge. Just providing a signal. There are a bunch of different things you can do with the megasquirt. What shift light are you trying to install?
You aren't powering the gauge. Just providing a signal. There are a bunch of different things you can do with the megasquirt. What shift light are you trying to install?
The innovate boost gauge I bought has a shift light around it so I figured I might as well install it (LINK). We're probably looking at 1.5-2 feet on the ground between this past Thursday through Monday, so the car isn't leaving the garage. Using a tach output from the MS3 would be preferable to doing it through the dash or diagnostic box. I'm also going to have to find the headlight cable to run the dimmer. I also don't want to have to tee/splice multiple wires off the same source because that doesn't sound like a good idea.
I'm probably just going to try to get the car/MS to interface tonight when I get home from school. I'd stick the *** end of the car out of the garage and start it but I'm nervous that it'll get stuck there if it doesn't work for whatever reason haha.
On the bright side, it's a great time of the year to own a Subaru. Did a few donuts in a parking lot the other day with my gf. I thought she was going to freak, but she was a good sport about it!
Got the MS wired in today and wanted to make sure my computer recognized it and that everything was a go. Things were going find and I calibrated the TPS. I updated the firmware to 1.5.0 and got a host of error messages when I opened Tuner Studio again. It gave me the option of backing up the tune I had on TS onto the MS3X, which is what I did. Is this the correct way of updating firmware? Or should I reach out to braineack and see if I should get an updated tune for this new firmware. Not sure if that's required.
As a side note, is it normal for the MS3 to make clicking noises? Atleast, that's what I think was making the noise!
Once it stops snowing outside, I'll stick the *** end of the miata outside the garage door and run the car for a bit to see if I can tune idle. I still need to figure out how the hell I want to mount the MS3.
RTC's first foray into the world of MS3 and Tuner Studio!
Got the MS wired in today and wanted to make sure my computer recognized it and that everything was a go. Things were going find and I calibrated the TPS. I updated the firmware to 1.5.0 and got a host of error messages when I opened Tuner Studio again. It gave me the option of backing up the tune I had on TS onto the MS3X, which is what I did. Is this the correct way of updating firmware? Or should I reach out to braineack and see if I should get an updated tune for this new firmware. Not sure if that's required.
As a side note, is it normal for the MS3 to make clicking noises? Atleast, that's what I think was making the noise!
Quoting myself re relevant question.
Anyone know if there's a way I can find the features on the Brain MS3X? I think he just builds the DIY kit, so just the miata specific manual for it should suffice right?
The DIY instructions say to use the lower mount of the stock ecu and zip tie things on the top. That sounds pretty reasonable. It shouldn't be bouncing around like that.
That said, if I place an order for anything at GWR, I might just add it on for the same reason as you.
I just got a small piece of aluminum from lowes, screwed my MS to that, then screwed that whole thing behind the seat. I also put a piece of foam weather strip between the plate and the car, because buzzing noises.
I just got a small piece of aluminum from lowes, screwed my MS to that, then screwed that whole thing behind the seat. I also put a piece of foam weather strip between the plate and the car, because buzzing noises.
Oh interesting.
I don't know if the cable that I got with the Brain unit is long enough to get it to go behind the seat. I'd be content mounting it in the stock ECU position. Might mount it with zip ties for now though.
Zip ties for the win. I had my **** zip tied for years, once you pull it tight that its secure, forget about it.
It's under your dash...out of sight, out of mind.
Anyone know if there's a way I can find the features on the Brain MS3X? I think he just builds the DIY kit, so just the miata specific manual for it should suffice right?
It's a plain-jane MS-3, it can do anything the firmware offers (so long as you have the correct circuity/wiring to support).
click your model year, it's wired to support/control all that (minus knock -- unless you added the knock module).
im still working on docs to outline all the controls and how i setup the basemaps.
for example, i use the "fan control" feature to control the a/c fan when the a/c is activated, and use the simple on/off programmable outputs to control the main fain -- this allows for two-stage fan control since the main fan is told to turn on at 190° where the a/c fan activates at 200°. I wish they'd update the code to allow for two fans within the "fan control" parameters.
click your model year, it's wired to support/control all that (minus knock -- unless you added the knock module).
im still working on docs to outline all the controls and how i setup the basemaps.
for example, i use the "fan control" feature to control the a/c fan when the a/c is activated, and use the simple on/off programmable outputs to control the main fain -- this allows for two-stage fan control since the main fan is told to turn on at 190° where the a/c fan activates at 200°. I wish they'd update the code to allow for two fans within the "fan control" parameters.
Haha, wait I thought you built folks the MS3X? And yeah, I had you add the knock module to it.
I'll check the trubokittehhh site out and read there. Some of this wiring is beyond me right now re: adding power/ground/tach. I'm not sure if I'm just supposed to strip the existing cables for ground/tach and splice in the wires for the gauges. That seemed sketch, but wtf do I know. Or if I'm supposed to solder the wires to the open spots on the open slots of the connector.
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