Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

Welcome to Miataturbo.net   Members
 


Build Threads Building a motor? Post the progress here.

Reply
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-24-2012, 12:45 AM   #1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Long Island
Posts: 108
Total Cats: 9
Smile Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build

Although I am a firm believer in doing things right the first time, I try to intelligently cut corners where it makes sense to. I'm also in the process of saving for a house right now, so that's my biggest motivator to budget this project as best as I can. Although I've turbo'd 5 cars and rebuilt several more engines and transmissions, this is my first build thread...so be gentle.

Here's what I started with: 1995 B-package bought with 120k on chassis and 66k on engine. Had a bunch of aftermarket goodies bolted on, but way too slow for my liking. This is her good side BTW, my ------- neighbor backed into the rear driver-side quarter...will deal with that after the engine work.



And here's the stock engine in all it's glory. Sold the Jackson Racing header, CAI, Fog-lights, A/C, and others to fund the build.




And now onto the actual project:



JDMEngineZone tranny - because third gear synchro was tempermental in the stock trans


IHI RHF5 - the underwhelming little MSM turbo. I want streetability and something useful for auto-x...may still opt for a bigger turbo later




The workplace:


Kerosene bath after fresh hone:



Ceramic block paint:


SCAT H-beams:


Comparison to stock:


And after self-balancing:


ARP hardware FTW:


Port-matching the intake:


Pretty sure this is the "blood" part that goes with "sweat and tears."


Pain-staking disassembly and cleaning of lifters:


Used BP-T cams:


Catch can fitting in place of PCV:


Relief cuts in stock MSM manifold:



JB Weld job return fitting:






90% complete:


Several hours of degreaser and power-washing later:


Arduino analogread test. To be utilized for Wideband AFR display and dummy-lights:


Jim-Stim assembled:


Got plenty of work ahead - school and work seem to interfere quite a bit. Going to be starting the DIYPNP assembly soon, and hopefully getting all the small parts figured out so I can get this swapped in on a weekend.

To be continued...
Attached Thumbnails
Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-20110422190835188.th.jpg   Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-20110422191028604.th.jpg   Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-stockengineinstalled.th.jpg   Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-goodies.th.jpg   Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-transmissionj.th.jpg  

Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-20110113181326743.th.jpg   Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-hoistedstockengine.th.jpg   Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-basementworkshop.th.jpg   Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-blockprep.th.jpg   Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-paintedblock.th.jpg  

Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-fleabayscatrods.th.jpg   Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-rodcomparison.th.jpg   Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-rodsassembledandbalance.th.jpg   Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-arpheadstudsinstalled.th.jpg   Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-20120314192541771.th.jpg  

Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-bleedinghand.th.jpg   Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-liftercleaning.th.jpg   Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-bptcams.th.jpg   Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-camcoverfitting.th.jpg   Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-manifoldcuts.th.jpg  

Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-oilpanreturn.th.jpg   Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-oilreturnfittings.th.jpg   Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-enginecomplete.th.jpg   Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-cleanenginebay.th.jpg   Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-arduinoqfj.th.jpg  

Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-jimstim.th.jpg  

Last edited by JustinOMGWTF; 03-24-2012 at 11:09 AM.
JustinOMGWTF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2012, 12:55 AM   #2
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Magnolia,TX
Posts: 87
Total Cats: -1
Default

Pics no work :(
Moffitt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2012, 01:00 AM   #3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Long Island
Posts: 108
Total Cats: 9
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Moffitt View Post
Pics no work :(
Weird. I see them fine on my desktop and phone...
JustinOMGWTF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 12:28 AM   #4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Long Island
Posts: 108
Total Cats: 9
Default Almost a year without updates - I suck.

Well - it's certainly been a trip. Things have calmed down a little at my job, and I haven't been selling cars on the side with such frequency, so I finally had a few moments to sit down for once.

Since the last update I've done a slew of modifications to project Me-Otter. Here it goes:

New robbins one piece top (excellent quality)
Iggee seat covers (excellent quality)

List of mods are as follows:
IHI RHF5 turbo, internally wastegated
Buschur racing MBC
Port matched intake manifold
Port matched MSM manifold with relief cuts (custom heat shield)
Ported MSM O2 housing
2.5" mandrel bent downpipe
Granatelli 2.5" exhaust cutout
Jackson racing 2.5" mandrel bent catback
Synchronics synapse BOV
SCAT H-beam rods
ARP head studs
BP-T turbo cams
AEM tru-time cam gears
Begi coolant spacer
Megan racing competition motor mounts
Flyin' Miata Stage 2 clutch and pressure plate
Custom passenger side re-route (Kia water neck, 1.25" aluminum tube, Kia universal hose, flipped water outlet)
A/C eliminated - factory Cruise Control and PS retained
Tig-welded stepped up intercooler piping
Mishimoto full aluminum radiator and slim fans
Mishimoto stealth intercooler
Rebuilt 460cc RX-7 saturated injectors
Toyota COPS with factory corolla harness
BLOX racing EGT and boost
Innovate Motorsports LC-1 and digital AFR gauge
Blitz DTC turbo timer
DIYPNP Nippon Denso 72pin Megasquirt (MS2extra)
GM IAT (MAF Elimination)
RS232 -> BT adapter for Bluetooth datalogging via ShadowLogger
Wired DIYPNP for features: Closed loop idle, closed loop boost control, WBO2 datalogging, table switch, launch control, e-cutout activation (tps>60)

Koni yellow shocks with Flyin' Miata springs
Brembo blanks with Hawk HPS pads

DIYPNP Construction:
Boost Control:
PT7 Output -> Boost Control Input
Boost Control output -> DB15 Pin 1

Radiator Fan:
PA0 Output -> Relay 1 Input
Relay 1 Output -> 1L (grounded when active)

Exhaust Dump:
PT6 Output -> Relay 2 Input
Relay 2 Output -> DB15 Pin 2 (grounded when active)

LC-1 WideBand:
DB15 Pin 8 - 12v out
DB15 Pin 7 - GND out (Due to corrosion, Heater ground moved to seperate grouding wire but using same ground lug as ECU)
DB15 Pin 6 - SG out
DB15 Pin 5 - O2 input

Table Switching:
1Q (A/C switch) Input -> Input 2 In
Input 2 Out -> PE1 IN

Launch Control:
1V (clutch switch) Input -> Input 1 In
Input 1 Out -> FLEX (PE0) IN

BT Module: DB9 Pin 9 +5v

DB15:
Pin 1 - Boost Control out
Pin 2 - Exhaust (relay gnd when closed)
Pin 5 - WB O2 in
Pin 6 - WB SigGnd
Pin 7 - GND out (Due to corrosion, Heater ground moved to seperate grouding wire but using same ground lug as ECU)
Pin 8 - WB ConPwr (12v)

Fac Harness:
1V (clutch switch) - Launch Control
1Q (A/C switch) - Table switch



DIYPNP arrival


Testing out my RS232-Bluetooth adapter


Shadow Dash on my CM7 Nook Color


First longblock ready to go!


2.5" downpipe I welded up. (heat wrap is excellent for hiding crap welds)


Front main seal got punctured somehow and was leaking oil like a sieve. The timing belt did a wonderful job of conveying the oil to the valve cover region which drove me crazy for a few days trying to source it.


05/01/2012
At about 250 miles I started to notice the engine began dropping in RPMs severely during clutch application. I thought this was a matter of tuning, but nothing I did was able to eliminate the symptoms. Things got worse, and eventually I stalled whenever applying the clutch and was unable to start the engine with the clutch still pushed in. I bought a new battery and obviously still didn't have luck. A quick google search pointed in the direction of a failed thrust bearing, and after measuring 1/4" of play in the crankshaft in-out play, I knew I was doomed.
Tragic discover and my worst fears confirmed. Thrust bearing failed due to constant pressure on pressure plate from mis-adjusted clutch push-rod. Some lessons have to be learned the hard way :(


The damage to the engine was significant. In retrospect I should have just scrapped the block and started fresh, but that's not an easy thing to do after putting so much money into rebuilding everything fresh. Wound up salvaging the rods, head, and accessories.

05/11/2012
The machine shop I've been using for 10 years+ "misplaced" my short block after dropping it off for an inspection and re-hone. Takes the sons of bitches until mid-October to find a replacement. Screwed my whole summer.

11/24/2012
Rebuilt bottom end with Clevite 77 bearings, Merkel racing polished crank, new slave cylinder, all new t-bolt intercooler clamps, new oil pump

Starting over with a replacement block...




Re-using stock pistons since the NPR's got chewed to all hell






Flyin' Miata Stg I clutch


I'm pictured on the left. Brother lending a hand for once since I coaxed with beer


Tragedy strikes again. That'll teach me to cheap out and buy a Harbor Freight ching-chong banana torque wrench.


December 10th, 2012
Freak accident and blew the head-gasket between #1 cylinder and water jacket. Bizarre instance of the DIYPNP WB analog values being thrown off by corroded wiring. I guess feeding the wideband heater circuit through the MS was a horrible idea since the 14ga wiring was corroded green and brittle to the touch (insulation appeared fine, though). Oh well, obviously I have no luck. Replaced head gasket. Head and block deck verified straight by Merkel.
Moved Wideband heater ground (Blue wire on LC-1) to grounding lug on intake manifold

Double-checking that I didn't block that goddamn oil feed


12/11/2012
Corrected timing by making sure I and E marks are directly north with 19 teeth in between each respective cam gear marking. DO NOT USE bevel on cam gear back plate...not accurate.
Very big improvement in throttle and turbo response from timing change.

12/14/2012
Tapped catch can for top vent to atmosphere and rerouted inlet hoses to both side of valve cover.

As she sits today...for the most part


The Me-Otter back to DD status


12/20/2012
Programmed LC1 to have Analog 1 (Gauge) full range 0-5v, 7.35 -22.39, and Analog 2 (MS) 0-5v, 10-20AFR
Installed warning LED and modified stock oil pressure gauge for VDO sending unit.
Got table-switching working with A/C switch (as long as fan is on)

12/21/2012
Found out that Launch Control won't work on 1V input (Flex/pe0) due to hardware issue with cruise control. ECU input is pulled to ground all the time due to cruise control module sharing brown/white wire from clutch switch. Still trying to figure this out.


1/6/2012
Tapped intercooler piping from intercooler to throttle body and moved new GM IAT to this position to prevent heatsoak.

Boost creep evident in 2nd and 3rd gear pulls. Boost climbs to 14psi instead of the normal 8psi. Ran vacuum line from old IAT position right before throttle body to internal wastegate since it's not supposed to see boost anyway.

Re-did vacuum sources according to FM turbo install (only use two ports off manifold) - assisted in boost creep reduction and MAP signal looks slightly cleaner.

Closed-loop idle working much better with Integral value of ~40 and Derivative value of ~50 to soften reaction. I know it's not recommended to even use a D value, but honestly I'm too lazy to keep playing with the idle and don't mind slight oscillation.
Attached Thumbnails
Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-70565146422478074214908.jpg   Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-46621846445550651011068.jpg   Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-67986145679895910123725.jpg   Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-46699132860851042011309.jpg   Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-47459232273793165934087.jpg  

Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-66559445220430023761751.jpg   Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-66533145220424023614781.jpg   Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-46298637293855864367782.jpg   Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-66496343718278470911626.jpg   Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-56073543251071191024333.jpg  

Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-41541335780633234741799.jpg   Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-47769942572941438203103.jpg   Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-41384332353823166631609.jpg   Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-46068633575708112999296.jpg   Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-31418843996817834228360.jpg  

Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-29114642816725132641575.jpg   Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-16740946796958635991278.jpg   Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-13584843924658830291249.jpg   Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-20120318194519361.jpg   Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-39173643318397674143211.jpg  

Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-33581042568505727312070.jpg  
JustinOMGWTF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 09:16 AM   #5
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 1,272
Total Cats: 32
Default

I like this build, but it sucks to have read about the problems you've had along the way!
timk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 09:31 AM   #6
Elite Member
iTrader: (8)
 
Ryan_G's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 2,579
Total Cats: 155
Default

Build is very well done. My only critique is why the hell did you go with the msm turbo when you built the engine. I have an msm and the only thing stopping me from upgrading is the fact that my bottom end is stock. You should have atleast put an ebay t25 on there so that you could upgrade to an EFR or 2871/76 later, The stock msm manifold is **** and has that stupid IHI footprint that is compatible with nothing. Otherwise I am jelly as my car needs a built engine.
Ryan_G is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 10:26 AM   #7
Murderator
iTrader: (76)
 
18psi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 36,206
Total Cats: 2,587
Default

Agreed with Ryan on all counts. You'll probably upgrade to a better turbo soon anyway lol.

Good job on everything else though.
18psi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 10:38 AM   #8
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 924
Total Cats: 16
Default

how do you like that bluetooth board? I was thinking of doing the same, but wanted someones thoughts on it, as well as how they did it before I took the plunge.
Gryff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 10:41 AM   #9
Boost Czar
iTrader: (61)
 
Braineack's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 72,900
Total Cats: 1,792
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan_G View Post
My only critique is why the hell did you go with the msm turbo when you built the engine. I have an msm and the only thing stopping me from upgrading is the fact that my bottom end is stock.

I'd phrase it more like this:

Why would you go with the MSM turbo when you built the engine when those turbos are known for crap power output and a high failure rate?
Braineack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 11:20 AM   #10
Elite Member
iTrader: (24)
 
chriscar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Carrollton TX
Posts: 1,702
Total Cats: 13
Default

Jesus Christ, where'd you find the time to write all that!?!?

Great job Justin, I had no idea you had that much work into it.

C
chriscar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 12:12 PM   #11
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Long Island
Posts: 108
Total Cats: 9
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan_G View Post
Build is very well done. My only critique is why the hell did you go with the msm turbo when you built the engine. I have an msm and the only thing stopping me from upgrading is the fact that my bottom end is stock. You should have atleast put an ebay t25 on there so that you could upgrade to an EFR or 2871/76 later, The stock msm manifold is **** and has that stupid IHI footprint that is compatible with nothing. Otherwise I am jelly as my car needs a built engine.

LOL! I knew I was going to get crap for having the MSM turbo. You'd think I would have known better, especially after reading Maximum Boost several times and having turbo'd cars in the past. Alas, I went against my better judgment since I got a great deal on the setup and initially only planned on bolting it to a tired bone stock block. You know the rest of the story. When it came to pulling the engine to tap the oil pan correctly it turned into the classic "why stop there" syndrome.

Just to put it in perspective, with the MSM manifold, this tiny *** IHI RHB5, and 2.5" mandrel bent downpipe, no-cat or resonator, a Jackson Racing 2.5" exhaust, and a very conservative tune (didn't touch timing map), I get 1psi at 2100RPM, 8psi at 2700RPM (supposed to be full spool), and linear boost creep after 4800RPM. The following pull was done in 4th gear.



For a stock street setup with a MSM restrictive exhaust, this probably would be totally acceptable, albeit underwhelming. However, I already got a good deal on a BEGI t3 manifold and SS divorced wastegate downpipe, so the next logical step is a T3 60 or turbonetics super 60 with .48 A/R hotside.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Gryff View Post
how do you like that bluetooth board? I was thinking of doing the same, but wanted someones thoughts on it, as well as how they did it before I took the plunge.

It honestly took an embarrassingly long amount of time to figure out how to get this thing to work. The hardest part was getting the little bitch to respond to terminal commands to change the baud rate. Once that was done, I wound up soldering the JY-MCU BT adapter to the rs232-TTL converter, and then wired it to the appropriate DB-9 pins with the BT jumper in place. I found the range to be unacceptable, so eventually soldered an old WIFI router external antennae to the BT adapter to extend the range. Works great now and I can walk about 15-ft away with my laptop or Galaxy S3 before I start dropping packets. If you’re interested, I can pull it back apart and take pictures of the assembly.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
I'd phrase it more like this:

Why would you go with the MSM turbo when you built the engine when those turbos are known for crap power output and a high failure rate?
It won’t be on much longer, don’t worry
I saw that you went from the Super 60 to a T28 chinacharger, but I sense ambivalence since you lost a bit of the top-end but also crave the quicker spool for streetability. I’ll probably wind up with a regular garrett 60 trim myself (unless you want to sell your old turbo, lol) on account of the 1.8 over your 1.6. I really liked that dyno comparison between the two turbos…not quite sure I have enough faith in china products…yet.


Quote:
Originally Posted by chriscar View Post
Jesus Christ, where'd you find the time to write all that!?!?

Great job Justin, I had no idea you had that much work into it.

C
Being single again has its advantages

I’ll make sure to let you take the car for a spin with the current setup before taking the next big step.
Attached Thumbnails
Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-capturemjo.jpg  

Last edited by JustinOMGWTF; 01-09-2013 at 01:17 PM.
JustinOMGWTF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 12:20 PM   #12
Elite Member
iTrader: (8)
 
Ryan_G's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 2,579
Total Cats: 155
Default

The spool is never what bothered me about the setup. It is the fact that the manifold has terrible flow and the most you can push out of the turbo is 220-230whp and that is really pushing it with a lot of excess heat.
Ryan_G is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 12:37 PM   #13
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Long Island
Posts: 108
Total Cats: 9
Default

The spool is fast with the msm, as to be expected from such a tiny platform. Totally agree on the flow being crap, but I would blame the turbine and turbine housing before the manifold. Onset of power hits at about 3500 and then falls on its face after 5k, and yes, my EGTs rocket to 1650+ which makes me more than a little weary.

I think this turbo would be just OK for a stock 1.6, but I dont recommend that anyone wastes thier time adapting especially if they have any higher aspirations of power.
JustinOMGWTF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 12:39 PM   #14
Boost Czar
iTrader: (61)
 
Braineack's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 72,900
Total Cats: 1,792
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JustinOMGWTF View Post
It won’t be on much longer, don’t worry
I saw that you went from the Super 60 to a T28 chinacharger, but I sense ambivalence since you lost a bit of the top-end but also crave the quicker spool for streetability. I’ll probably wind up with a regular garrett 60 trim myself (unless you want to sell your old turbo, lol) on account of the 1.8 over your 1.6. I really liked that dyno comparison between the two turbos…not quite sure I have enough faith in china products…yet.

I went from a genuine Garrett T3 Super 60 (~48mm/60mm) to a replica chinacharger T3 50 trim (~43mm/60mm).



The difference between a super 60 and regular 60 trim is like .08mm on the inducer.

But yes, I'd keep the larger installed if I had a 1.8L and could actually spool a tiny turbo.
Attached Thumbnails
Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-nov_13_2010_china_vs_nov_10_2008_garrett.jpg  
Braineack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 12:43 PM   #15
Elite Member
iTrader: (13)
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Taos, New mexico
Posts: 5,704
Total Cats: 237
Default

Great build man, loving the details. I have to agree on the turbo setup fail though, but it sounds like you are well aware of this and plan on upgrading.

Keep us updated as you go. This thing needs a real turbo :P
Fireindc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 12:59 PM   #16
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Long Island
Posts: 108
Total Cats: 9
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
I went from a genuine Garrett T3 Super 60 (~48mm/60mm) to a replica chinacharger T3 50 trim (~43mm/60mm).



The difference between a super 60 and regular 60 trim is like .08mm on the inducer.

But yes, I'd keep the larger installed if I had a 1.8L and could actually spool a tiny turbo.
Yeah, I'll only opt for the S60 if I get a good deal on one, but more than likely I'm going for the 60 since the performance difference seems negligible.

Interesting to note that the increased inducer in the S60 may actually cause the onset of power to fall on the left side of the surge-line. I'm sure it's pretty superficial since the time spent in that region is minimal, but for argument sake it "might" make more sense from some sort of efficiency perspective to opt for the regular 60 trim in this application.

Here's the config I used for Squirrel TC:
Squirrel Performance

And the results:




I've dealt with BlaastPerformance in the past and have had luck, unlike some other people. Hard to beat 399 + canada shipping for a reman T3 with a 6-month warranty, though, even when considering the price of Churbos. The advertised specs for the T3 60 are:

compressor wheel: 46.5 / 60.1 mm, 60 trim
compressor housing: 0.60 a/r
center section: oil cooled journal bearings (watercooling upgrade available)
Turbine wheel: 68 trim (stage1)
Turbine housing .48 a/r

Sounds like he just took old 300ZX / Thunderbird turbos and bolted up the friendlier 5-bolt T3 housing. If I go this route, I'll make sure to go wet CHRA (water cooled) and also inquire about internal wastegate applications since the BEGI manifold that's on it's way doesn't have an EWG flange. Final decision is pending until I actually get the new setup components in my hand and had time to inspect...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fireindc View Post
Great build man, loving the details. I have to agree on the turbo setup fail though, but it sounds like you are well aware of this and plan on upgrading.

Keep us updated as you go. This thing needs a real turbo :P
Yeah, pretty much fail all around with this setup. But it was a good starting point since it got me comfortable with TunerStudio and allowed me time to work out bugs and break-in my engine properly without doing burnouts everywhere, lol.

I'll be sure to keep this thread updated now that things have calmed down for me.

Also looking for a good MS tuner in the tri-state area once I get the new setup ironed out. Already talked to Chris Harris from Xenocron who quoted me $600 for a full tune. I've worked with him in the past and had a positive experience. Open to other suggestions, though.

Last edited by JustinOMGWTF; 01-08-2013 at 01:19 PM.
JustinOMGWTF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 04:23 PM   #17
Boost Czar
iTrader: (61)
 
Braineack's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 72,900
Total Cats: 1,792
Default

compressor maps are silly; this assumes that you'll hit 15psi at ~140CFM. that's a big assumption.
Braineack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 05:17 PM   #18
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Long Island
Posts: 108
Total Cats: 9
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
compressor maps are silly; this assumes that you'll hit 15psi at ~140CFM. that's a big assumption.
Do you think the variables I used should be changed or do you not recommend turbo calculators / compressor map reading in general?

I'm not going to pretend that I fully understand compressor or turbine maps, but in the pursuit of a more scientific approach these calculators have helped me in the past (albeit somewhat optimistic/inaccurate).
JustinOMGWTF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 10:16 PM   #19
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Long Island
Posts: 108
Total Cats: 9
Default

Some misc pictures of the build.

For those contemplating reusing their oil pump after a bearing failure...don't do it. The top if OEM oil pump rotor after 88k miles, the bottom is oil pump rotor with only 270 miles after bearing failure.


Robbins glass window w/ defroster and rain guard assembly:



Attached Thumbnails
Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-20110618144532316.jpg   Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-20110617130521877.jpg   Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-20110509181219568.jpg   Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-20110509181210778.jpg   Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-20121120221506.jpg  


Last edited by JustinOMGWTF; 01-14-2013 at 03:11 PM.
JustinOMGWTF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2013, 03:10 PM   #20
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Long Island
Posts: 108
Total Cats: 9
Default

New BEGI Stainless divorced wastegate downpipe paired with a BEGI cast T25. Got a sweet deal on a GT2871R which is still on the way along with 750CC injectors



Couldn't find anything else to do to the car this weekend, so I found a use for a cheap Bolutek 3.5mm audio -> BT A2DP adapter I had laying around. Used it to add BlueTooth to the old receiver I napped off ChrisCar.





Didn't feel like fabricating up a project box, so I just ghetto wrapped the adapter in electrical tape and velcro'd it to the top of the glovebox, lol. Also relocated my cigarette lighter to the glovebox as well to supply accessory power.



Fixed the lazy ball vents by replacing the felt with electrical tape, installed the Old School Rockford Fosgate head unit and Alpine 500w 4ch amp along with Innovate Motorsport Digital AFR, Blox EGT, and Blox Vac/Boost.

Attached Thumbnails
Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-20130109224226.jpg   Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-20130112171215.jpg   Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-20130113125627.jpg   Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-2013011313012611.jpg   Project: Turbo Me-Otter! Frugal 1.8 daily driver build-screenshot2013011312491.jpg  

JustinOMGWTF is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
elesjuan's mediocre 95 Miata adventure (google fiber edition) elesjuan Build Threads 8 02-16-2016 09:36 PM
ms2e No Rpm Signal Dobzeh ECUs and Tuning 5 09-17-2015 03:56 PM
Project DDoS: '99 "Budget" boost build ProjectDDoS Build Threads 1 09-09-2015 02:52 PM
Overheating Turbo'd 96M Bruce MacKay General Miata Chat 8 09-05-2015 08:05 PM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:09 AM.