Notices
Build Threads Building a motor? Post the progress here.

Rafael's Build Thread

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Dec 27, 2009 | 01:14 AM
  #1  
PhantomRoadster's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 200
Total Cats: 0
From: Central, NJ
Default Rafael's Build Thread

Things being done for now;
Begi S1
LC1 Wideband
Adaptronic Ecu
Deutscheworks 600cc injectors






What I have done so far...

removed header, air intake and lower coolant hose.




Installed signal source fitting, new coolant tubes and water by-pass tube.





Zip tied the lower coolant tube to keep away from the belt but have a feeling it's just going to rattle up against the sway bar.







New PWS lines and cooler. Routed them through the old pws line bracket instead of begi's 3rd adel clamp. Not sure if this is going to work after the intercooler is installed.



I'll tap the oil pan tomorrow and hopefully finish up a lot more.
This is my first turbo install and I figured I'd post pics since other builds have helped me with this install.
Any advice is more than welcomed.

Picture of the ride...
Old Dec 27, 2009 | 12:18 PM
  #2  
PhantomRoadster's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 200
Total Cats: 0
From: Central, NJ
Default

Hit a wall today. I need a deep 24mm socket for the oil pressure sensor. No biggie I'll run out and get that. Then I realized that the drill bit from begi doesn't fit in my drill. Now I need a new drill, plus I don't know how I'm going to even have room to drill the hole. It doesn't even look like there's room for a drill down there. I knew it was going to be hard but it looks unachievable.
Old Dec 27, 2009 | 12:32 PM
  #3  
flipt86's Avatar
Junior Member
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 185
Total Cats: -1
From: Chattanooga, TN
Default

A large chuck right angle drill helps...Pull the A/C comp. and let it hang loose. Or just remove it.
Old Dec 27, 2009 | 12:49 PM
  #4  
Braineack's Avatar
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
 
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 80,541
Total Cats: 4,364
From: Chantilly, VA
Default

I'd suggest to revisit the heater-core return line. I really hate that they still have you run it to the upper hose...Shueinds was just saying he let his car warm up before a drive, so it hit 160* sitting there, once he started driving the gauge pegged C. It's not the ideal way to run the heater core return...get it back on the lower hose.
Old Dec 27, 2009 | 01:54 PM
  #5  
micagreenmachine's Avatar
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 59
Total Cats: 0
From: Mundelein, IL
Default

Where are you putting your oil-pressure sender? Are you just replacing the stock on-off one? That's the next mod I'm doing...

I'm getting everything except turbo done this winter. Come spring I can focus on installing the turbo 'cause I know I'll put everything else on the back burner once I start playing with that.

I'm planning a very similar setup so I'll be watching this thread. I already have the Adaptronic and LC-1 installed and running. (real) oil pressure gauge next, then new injectors.
Old Dec 27, 2009 | 07:33 PM
  #6  
ArtieParty's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,118
Total Cats: 0
From: Trenton, NJ
Default

Good job so far, Raf. Sorry I couldn't make it out yesterday or today. I might be available after work tomorrow. PM me ur address here.
Old Dec 27, 2009 | 09:23 PM
  #7  
TurboTim's Avatar
Elite Member
iTrader: (9)
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 7,033
Total Cats: 425
From: Chesterfield, NJ
Default

Originally Posted by PhantomRoadster

Seems as though autometer gauges aren't what they used to be. Unless you're wwaaayyyy below sealevel when you took that pic I'd consider getting that exchanged.

I'll post my 2cents here too, regarding your oil drain line fitting:
I've never done it, always paid my dad to do it. But he doesn't have a right angle drill, and he doesn't move the A/C parts. I was there "holding the light" when he did the fitting on my 1.6 many years ago. I think he just removes the front driver's wheel and uses a standard 1/2" chuck cordless drill. Drills & taps slowly with lots of grease on the flutes to grap the chips, cleaning often and reapplying grease. I do not know what size he drill/taps the hole to however, BEGI may send a larger bit & fitting cause "bigger is better" with drain lines and the internet says 10AN is what you do. I do know we use 8AN fittings on our drain lines without issue ever. The fitting goes at the front right under the A/C compressor
Old Dec 27, 2009 | 10:37 PM
  #8  
Toddcod's Avatar
Elite Member
iTrader: (8)
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,829
Total Cats: 0
From: Dallas
Default

Originally Posted by flipt86
Pull the A/C comp. Or just remove it.
CRAZY TALK! LOL

Each to there own. If I can't have A/C on a car..... I SELL IT! LOL

I'm not 19 anymore either though. 18 I didn't have one. But by 19 I did. LOL
Old Dec 27, 2009 | 11:22 PM
  #9  
PhantomRoadster's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 200
Total Cats: 0
From: Central, NJ
Default

Originally Posted by flipt86
A large chuck right angle drill helps...
Went looking for one at home depot today but none of them were 1/2 chuck and they did not have the right angle adapter in stock. So I didn't get to tap the pan today.

Originally Posted by Braineack
I'd suggest to revisit the heater-core return line. I really hate that they still have you run it to the upper hose...Shueinds was just saying he let his car warm up before a drive, so it hit 160* sitting there, once he started driving the gauge pegged C. It's not the ideal way to run the heater core return...get it back on the lower hose.
WTF, I spent most of the day yesterday installing that. It took forever just to get to the lower water line bolt. I already cut and spliced the upper radiator hose. I also cut the heater core tube in half. Would there be a quick fix for this and will I have overheating issues if I don't run the racer re-route?

Here's what I got done today...
I was finally able to get at the oil pressure sender and install the oil line. Those 90 degree fittings are a bitch to tighten. It seems every time I would tighten the line it would loosen on the other end. Is there a trick to these?



It took me at least an hour to screw this damn lock nut.



I was able to get the turbo, downpipe and manifold mounted. Need new tools because for some reason my open ended side of my 1/2 wrench won't fit on the wastegate lock nuts. The turbo nuts are also a bitch to get too.


Hopefully I won't have to uninstall it to undo the racer reroute.
Old Dec 27, 2009 | 11:38 PM
  #10  
SKMetalworks's Avatar
Elite Member
iTrader: (7)
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,731
Total Cats: 4
From: Renton Washington
Default

Clean ride.
Old Dec 27, 2009 | 11:39 PM
  #11  
PhantomRoadster's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 200
Total Cats: 0
From: Central, NJ
Default

Originally Posted by micagreenmachine
Where are you putting your oil-pressure sender? Are you just replacing the stock on-off one? That's the next mod I'm doing...
The stock pressure sensor gets re-wired and hooked up to a distribution block on the cam cover. Check page 22 for instructions.
http://www.bellengineering.net/templ...eries1-2-3.pdf

Originally Posted by TurboTim
Seems as though autometer gauges aren't what they used to be. Unless you're wwaaayyyy below sealevel when you took that pic I'd consider getting that exchanged.
huhhh... Is it supposed to be exactly on 0 and is there a way to fix this? Brian gave me this bitch...
Old Dec 28, 2009 | 12:36 AM
  #12  
turotufas's Avatar
Elite Member
iTrader: (7)
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,304
Total Cats: 7
From: Gainesville,Fl
Default

I'm the only guy who doesn't bring a camera in the garage. I guess its too late to start a build thread.

Nice looking car. I need to see how you wire the lc1. I'm still thinking how I should do it.
Old Dec 28, 2009 | 01:32 AM
  #13  
PhantomRoadster's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 200
Total Cats: 0
From: Central, NJ
Default

Originally Posted by PhantomRoadster

WTF, I spent most of the day yesterday installing that. It took forever just to get to the lower water line bolt. I already cut and spliced the upper radiator hose. I also cut the heater core tube in half. Would there be a quick fix for this and will I have overheating issues if I don't run the racer re-route?
Nevermind found an old thread I read before. https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t28985-6/ I will just try splicing into the lower radiator hose. I guess I'm going to have to put a tube in the upper hose to keep it from leaking until I get a new stock hose.
Old Dec 28, 2009 | 08:00 AM
  #14  
TurboTim's Avatar
Elite Member
iTrader: (9)
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 7,033
Total Cats: 425
From: Chesterfield, NJ
Default

Originally Posted by PhantomRoadster
huhhh... Is it supposed to be exactly on 0 and is there a way to fix this? Brian gave me this bitch...
I think it should at least be in the box around zero. It is the angle of the picture? I do not know of a way to fix it other than exchanging it, if it were new that is.

I have sticks of 1.25" dia pipe (ss and aluminum) if you need some to replace the splice in your upper radiator hose.
Old Dec 28, 2009 | 08:17 AM
  #15  
ArtieParty's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,118
Total Cats: 0
From: Trenton, NJ
Default

Originally Posted by TurboTim

I have sticks of 1.25" dia pipe (ss and aluminum) if you need some to replace the splice in your upper radiator hose.
So does Paul. We bought 6 feet of pipe and only used 3 inches of it. I guess i should look into making a nicer reroute for my car from it instead of the long rubber hose from heater core to lower radiator hose.

Raf, still need ur address in case I decide to come over today, but I think I might be mounting my snow tires and installing hardtop/defroster.
Old Dec 28, 2009 | 12:22 PM
  #16  
PhantomRoadster's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 200
Total Cats: 0
From: Central, NJ
Default

I just fucked up something. I unbolted a hose to the ac to make room for the drill and got an explosion of liquid in my face. The belt started to spin also. Did I do huge damage? Can I fix this and replace that liquid? Should have known not to touch anything.


I'm such a dumbass!

Artie pm sent.

Last edited by PhantomRoadster; Dec 28, 2009 at 12:57 PM.
Old Dec 28, 2009 | 12:27 PM
  #17  
hustler's Avatar
Tour de Franzia
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
From: Republic of Dallas
Default

lol
Old Dec 28, 2009 | 12:31 PM
  #18  
TurboTim's Avatar
Elite Member
iTrader: (9)
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 7,033
Total Cats: 425
From: Chesterfield, NJ
Default

OMFG!!! BWWWAAHHHAHAHAHAHAAAHA

Sorry that is toooo funny!
Old Dec 28, 2009 | 12:39 PM
  #19  
budget racer's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 717
Total Cats: 0
From: North Jersey
Default

hah.....no worries. you just lost all of the refridgerant. do what you need to do, and then put the hose back on pronto.......you want as little moisture as possible to get into the AC system.

then you will have to get the AC system recharged......probably best to take it to a professional garage. they will pull a vacuum on the system (removing any moisture) and then rechage it with refridgerant. you might need to replace the o-rings in that hose now too.

again.....i don't see any major problem with what happened.
Old Dec 28, 2009 | 12:56 PM
  #20  
PhantomRoadster's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 200
Total Cats: 0
From: Central, NJ
Default

Thanks Nick,
It actually made a ton of room and I was able to drill the hole much easier and straighter. But yea it was funny and scary!



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:10 AM.