RedCarmel's copycat build
03-24-2013, 09:59 PM
#21
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pretty much done
Well it was a pretty good weekend, got the used FM 2.5" exhaust hung, RX-7 550cc injectors installed, electronic boost control solenoid installed, and the misc gauges and sensors wired up.
I know not many people are familiar with the FM link, but I went through the steps to reset the turbo basemap, verify the IAT and MAP sensor was working, set the TPS, and then started the car.
It fired up relatively well considering it's been sitting on jackstands since December. However, it pretty much idled like crap at around 1100, and the readings from the wideband gauge were through the roof.
The next steps after this were to adjust the idle and then set the ignition timing. I don't know if these steps will help me or not. I didn't do much with that because I was concerned about what I was seeing for AFRs. Is is safe to keep it idling with really high AFRs since there's no load on the engine?
Also, the two times I started it up there was a cyclical metallic screeching sound for a few seconds that would then go away. I hope to everything holy that's there's not something making contact in the turbo. Since it goes away, I would assume not but I don't know what it yet (didn't have a helper so I was just sitting in the driver's seat). I did prime the turbo before starting the engine.
I know not many people are familiar with the FM link, but I went through the steps to reset the turbo basemap, verify the IAT and MAP sensor was working, set the TPS, and then started the car.
It fired up relatively well considering it's been sitting on jackstands since December. However, it pretty much idled like crap at around 1100, and the readings from the wideband gauge were through the roof.
The next steps after this were to adjust the idle and then set the ignition timing. I don't know if these steps will help me or not. I didn't do much with that because I was concerned about what I was seeing for AFRs. Is is safe to keep it idling with really high AFRs since there's no load on the engine?
Also, the two times I started it up there was a cyclical metallic screeching sound for a few seconds that would then go away. I hope to everything holy that's there's not something making contact in the turbo. Since it goes away, I would assume not but I don't know what it yet (didn't have a helper so I was just sitting in the driver's seat). I did prime the turbo before starting the engine.
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03-24-2013, 10:04 PM
#22
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I think the Ill sound you're hearing is the sound of horsepower...just like all the oil on my garage floor....it's simply sweat from all the horse power my stock engine makes.
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03-24-2013, 11:01 PM
#24
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It never did it before, but I guess I've never let it sit for months on end without running it...so, maybe? That would be nice if it was something relatively simple.
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03-26-2013, 10:25 AM
#32
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I called FM about the crappy, and way lean, idle and they said to adjust the injector offset to account for the fact I'm running RX-7 injectors and to move the master fuel map up to get the AFRs more normal at idle. Those things helped but I still have a rough idle that stumbles quite a bit. I'm showing an average of 18 for vacuum at idle so now I will be on the hunt for a vacuum leak. Thirdgen pointed out that people that use RX-7 injectors tend to get leaks around the isolators so I will be checking that first.
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04-09-2013, 12:08 AM
#33
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I think my idle issues are all taken care of now.
Details here https://www.miataturbo.net/link-93/l...-issues-71890/
I still need to take the ECU back out and fix up some potentially cracked solder and continue with the autotuning process. Most of the interior is back together, I need to finish hooking up the oil temp gauge and I want to go over my IC piping really well one last time to make sure it won't blow apart.
Generally speaking, things seem to be going pretty well. I haven't found any water or oil leaks yet, the car is running pretty great now, and the FM exhaust sounds amazing.
After I get everything buttoned up and road tuned, the plan is to run about 8psi for a while and then take the car out of commission, again, long enough to install the FM stage 1 clutch. Then I will take it to Ken Hill for dyno tuning and my goal will be about 210whp. Ken was a big help to me getting my idle issue ironed out and I really look forward to working with him on that final tune.
Details here https://www.miataturbo.net/link-93/l...-issues-71890/
I still need to take the ECU back out and fix up some potentially cracked solder and continue with the autotuning process. Most of the interior is back together, I need to finish hooking up the oil temp gauge and I want to go over my IC piping really well one last time to make sure it won't blow apart.
Generally speaking, things seem to be going pretty well. I haven't found any water or oil leaks yet, the car is running pretty great now, and the FM exhaust sounds amazing.
After I get everything buttoned up and road tuned, the plan is to run about 8psi for a while and then take the car out of commission, again, long enough to install the FM stage 1 clutch. Then I will take it to Ken Hill for dyno tuning and my goal will be about 210whp. Ken was a big help to me getting my idle issue ironed out and I really look forward to working with him on that final tune.
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04-09-2013, 12:49 AM
#34
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With that turbo, and those injectors...I believe 210whp would easily be achieved. My guess is between 10 and 12psi. Did you end up using an oil restrictor for your turbo? I don't know if I ever mentioned it, but I used a pop rivet on mine from the get go.
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04-09-2013, 04:13 PM
#36
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The oil feed components are properly sized from FM. Some installations experience minor oil consumption that can be rectified with a restrictor on the inlet of the turbo. Restrictors are about $7 from AP Turbo.
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05-05-2013, 11:28 PM
#39
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It's been a long time since I've updated this thread, but I've been pretty busy over the last several weeks and haven't time much time to work on the car.
A few weeks ago I sent the Link ECU to Ken Hill for some repairs and he also made up a brace so the heatsink should never vibrate and break solder joints on me again. So I reinstalled the Link, swapped out the factory catalytic for a new used Magnaflow, made some adjustments on my IC piping and IC mount, and wrapped some hoses and lines under the hood with adhesive backed heat wrap.
Another task that I've been putting off is wrapping the hotside silicone IC pipe and water lines with some strategically placed rubber hose to act as a buffer against rubbing. It's not pretty but I'll keep my eye on it and see if helps and stays put.
Tomorrow I think I'll reinstall some of the chassis bracing, slap on the 6ULs and get back to road tuning
A few weeks ago I sent the Link ECU to Ken Hill for some repairs and he also made up a brace so the heatsink should never vibrate and break solder joints on me again. So I reinstalled the Link, swapped out the factory catalytic for a new used Magnaflow, made some adjustments on my IC piping and IC mount, and wrapped some hoses and lines under the hood with adhesive backed heat wrap.
Another task that I've been putting off is wrapping the hotside silicone IC pipe and water lines with some strategically placed rubber hose to act as a buffer against rubbing. It's not pretty but I'll keep my eye on it and see if helps and stays put.
Tomorrow I think I'll reinstall some of the chassis bracing, slap on the 6ULs and get back to road tuning
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