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Maybe I didn't jump the diagnostic thing long enough?
But shouldn't at least one of the LED's wired to the brake/ABS wires light up on initial key on? I also tried unplugging one of the sensors to see if that would trigger anything and it did not.
I had this problem with a retrofit. Faulty unit, don't assume your unit is fully functional without very good reason to believe that. It was desperation move on my part, but as I had a spare unit we just plugged in the electrical side (no brake lines), and it did the self-test and the light went out. We swapped the unit over, bled the brakes, and all was good.
I am assuming you are not using an ABS with the separate ABS computer?
It's from an 04, I believe (edit: it's the same pump codrus used). NB1 had the separate module + pump, right?
I preemptively ordered a replacement one, as I don't really have time to waste if this one does turn out to be faulty. Which is really annoying as it came off a car with 12k miles.
10AE and JDM NA8s, to my knowledge, may have been others as presumably it would have been the later unit on the 10AE if it had been available. Yes, two pieces, ABS unit in usual place, electronics in footwell.
If you ordered the replacement form the same place as the one you have, hopefully they will refund you if the replacement works. Good luck!
The behaviour of mine is that if there are no codes, then it grounds both light outputs at power on, turns off one, then turns off the other.
I don't have any photos of my bench test setup, but here's the video closeup of the lights again (IB forum code changes appear to have screwed up the link from before):
Jumping either of the brown or green/white wires to ground doesn't seem to trigger anything though. Jumping one of those while holding the brake should get it to do something, right?
I guess I'll see if it works when I drive it later this week. The code clearing procedure didn't seem to work as expected. Which meant could never get the pump to cycle.
Ok bringing this thread back from the dead. So on the NB2 abs, once swapped, what are people doing for bias adjustment? Bias adjuster on rear line, bias adjuster on front line?
Ok bringing this thread back from the dead. So on the NB2 abs, once swapped, what are people doing for bias adjustment? Bias adjuster on rear line, bias adjuster on front line?
I just ran it as-is from the donor car. I found that with the 11.75" TSE fronts and FM Wilwood rears it was too rear-biased, so I wound up going back to stock calipers in the rear (on 11" sport rotors), which mostly fixed the issue.
Everything I have read says you never want a bias adjuster on the front lines, only the rear. I am also not sure it's a great idea to try to mix an adjustable prop valve with an ABS that was calibrated for a different bias.
Yea I was thinking on the front didn't make sense, it would be better to change pad compound, but I read it here somewhere and thought I would check. I think most are running a proportioning valve even with ABS though.
Front: all Sport brakes
rear: sport calipers, 251 mm discs and carrier
1" master
Brake prop valve on the rear line before the ABS block
I might go back to all-sport rear brakes because I feel like I could use a little more rear brake in light braking, and the ABS will take care of eycessive brake force
I'm 80% through with the NB2 (Bosch) ABS swap on my NB1. I've been piecing this together over the last 6 months. I can't find a NB2 with ABS in a central Ohio junkyard, and the nearest places are >4 hours round trip. I just need the rear knuckles and axles and finish the wiring.
That also meant I had to make all my own lines, which was quite laborious. I have a Wilwood 1" master + adjustable prop valve, plus I wanted to add an AIM brake pressure sensor to the front circuit, so it wouldn't have been a complete bolt-in had I gotten all the ABS lines. It still needs some line clamps and final strain relieving. I ended up putting a union for the rear brake line on the firewall. This required dropping the line to flare it, but was way quicker than making a new one. I usually don't like unnecessarily adding more fitting, but was a significant time savings for the risk of 2 additional joints.
Having many nightmares about how long it would take to remake/reflare a bunch of leaking lines with the shitty wingnut flaring tool, I broke down and bought a Jegs Pro flaring tool (which seems to be the same as the Eastwood tool). What a beauty! It requires a feel to not under/over flare, but after that it's just a pleasure. No leaks after bleeding! I also used NiCopp line, which is soft enough you can bend by hand around sockets to get really tight bends you can't do with a regular tubing bender tool. It does work harden extremely quick, so if you dick something up it's much much harder to straighten it back out. I typically would just throw the line out and remake it if I bent it in the wrong direction. Note the direction of the Subaru ABS connector.
I was having trouble finding the ABS pump connector. I wasn't really sure what harness it was apart of, and no junk yards wanted to just hack it off for me. You can still find the connector on the Bosch website, but good luck purchasing it individually. There are a bunch of vehicles that use the Bosch 3 channel ABS pump, but they don't all have the same keys. For example, I found the 1st gen Honda Pilot use a Bosch pump with different keyways. I ended up buying a connector w/ pigtail for a 2002 Subaru Legacy. So any early 2000's Legacy, Baja, Outback will work. The only issue is the wire bundle exits the connector points at the engine instead of the fender.
This is what it should look like:
Has anyone had an issue with the ABS light not coming on at all? I'm starting to suspect a bad pump. I've installed a NB2 pump from a junkyard (see above post), and finally got around to sorting out the wiring (which is all custom):
The brake warning light turns on with IG and it goes out after 1-2 seconds and I can hear the solenoids click, but the ABS warning light never turns on. I've verified the wiring is correct, because both lights turn on when I unplug the connector from the pump. I've verified I'm getting +12v at both pins coming from the engine bay fuse box. Both grounds are connected to the ABS pump bracket.
I've tried grounding the TBN pin and nothing happens when I IG on. Also tried pressing the brake and turning IG on(with TBN grounded) and it didn't do any diagnostic mode. And I've disconnected the wheel speed sensors and still no light.
The car is still on jack stands, so I haven't actually confirmed that it doesn't work, but I'm not filled with confidence. I'm gonna source another NB2 pump unless someone has anything I'm overlooking.
Those units are not failureproof. I chased a conversion that wouldn't clear the check light after ignition on, for months - so much time, money, frustration. Put oscilloscopes on it, replaced sensors, rewired, you name it. Then in desperation plugged in another unit and all worked as per script. If it checks out with basic checks, go straight to another unit is my advice now. All you need to do is plug the electronics connector in, doesn't need to to plumbed into the hydraulics if all you are doing is trying to get that warning light to go out on startup.
03-28-2019, 08:54 PM
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