I have good luck with hot restarts so far, just cold starts it really doesnt want to idle... Itll start fine now that I have pulse width up a bit but it doesn't idle till it moves. I still reference your tune all the time, and was noticing you have ase backwards from what I think of as normal, but I've heard of doing that for hot restart heat soak issues so makes sense. I think i have a similar "built in wue" experience with the id1050x injectors in the car. I have run very low values and it seems to be good. On base tune values it seemed to be flooding it when cold lol.

 

I definitely considered doing warm up enleanment and actually pulling some fuel at lower temps because of that.

My ASE values are pretty wild, but that's what I've found the car needs to be happy in the summer. If I don't dump fuel like that then it'll shudder and idle super rough on hot restarts, it's always fine after I get the car moving though.

 

I have been playing with boost control and getting it settled in around 15-16 psi. it's a process, right now it gets there and then tapers down until in higher gears and then it tapers up to maybe 17, still adjusting the numbers. Probably going to redo my Wastegate actuator bracket and give it some more preload so it actually makes 14 on spring pressure, and then have a switch for boost control for 14 vs 16-17, but I'm not certain yet. I want to take advantage of my built engine but I don't want to cause too many stupid unreliability issues. After fixing my tach my IAT started working. After fixing my 5v issue it no longer works(reads default 70). I don't know if these are all related or not, but it's something I noticed and now I don't understand why it isn't working again. Additionally I have my open loop boost control map set up just by column of rpm because my tps sensor gives me garbage data. Maybe this weekend I'll run some new wires for sensors and see if anything improves. the few times I've done pulls that hit 17 the car is FAST. I'd love for it to be like that all the time but I don't know if that is wise considering I've seen people blow 6 speeds with relatively low power. I'm open to recommendations but I'm thinking a rain mode and race mode may be in order. Something like 14 and 17 or maybe I keep it at the 12 and then do 16 or 17 for a slightly larger difference. Just seems wrong to me to make 12psi on a 14lb spring I'd rather set that up right first and go from there but 14 is still a lot in the rain with knobby tires and a welded diff. even at 15psi in 4th the car spins on a wet road once you get into boost. I love it but it might not be the best for an every morning adventure but well see how it goes. Some day I'll get a better ecu and pony up for an actual dyno day, but I'd like to work out kinks like sensors not reading or reading garbage and get a stable tune I'm happy with before then. I'd also like to do the nb cluster swap and wire in speed sensors front and rear for traction control and boost by gear before then. I still suffer from bad cold starts. The car will start right up but then doesn't stay running unless you drive it. Other than that my tune is getting a lot better. The afr's stay in check most all the time unless I'm curising at very low load mid to high rpm then it will lean out with transient throttle. If I get on it it fixes itself, or if I'm completely off throttle it's fine in those cells, but in those cells if I have the throttle cracked it want's to go very lean. Overall I'm very happy with it. I did my last break-in oil change last night and now should have a "fully broken in" engine. over 1k miles on an engine I put together myself. Feels pretty good, hopefully nothing goes catastrophically wrong. My only real worries with the engine are there is no MBSP because its a 99 engine, and I didn't spring for billet main caps (even though I got my mains line bored anyways so I should have) but I should still be more than good in this world of sub 400hp from my research I should be much more worried about the trans but I could be wrong who knows.

 

Last night on the way home I believe I got rod knock. The engine sounds terrible. I don't know where to go from here. I guess this weekend I'll start tearing it apart. :( Brand new engine down the tube

 

Sorry to hear that man.

 

Got a video of the noise? That sucks man, fingers crossed it's something like a pulley going out.

 

It's a long shot, I know, but do you still have the filter from your final break in oil change? Or did you get a glimpse of the oil after it was drained? Could be a telling sign.

While typing this, I just realized 11/13 was exactly two weeks ago. Lost track of the month. Guess that makes it an even longer shot.

Agreed with Sim. Hopefully it's a pulley or something else non-catastrophic making the noise.

 

Quick update: I know it has been a long time - few weeks ago I finally pulled the engine from the car, last weekend I took the oil pan off and the second from the front rod bearing is GONE. not spun, not scored, gone. It was in pieces in my pan and on the oil pickup. How it got out I have no Idea. Probably going to tear it the rest of the way down this weekend and start seeing how much it would cost to fix. So far Im up to a little under a grand with seals and gaskets, new boundary pump, bearings, replacement rod, I figure I'll probably need a new oil cooler. The crank is scored so I will have to see if a machine shop can fix it or if I need to find a replacement. Hopefully pistons and turbo are okay :/

 

Damn, I was wondering if we'd get an update on this one, but that's not what I was hoping for. Let us know what you find.

 

You guys think this crank is done?


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Is there a chunk missing from that rod? Hard to tell exactly from the photos.

 

yep, and the crank is discolored from heat.

 

Oof, didn't even notice the discoloration. Not sure how big of a deal that is if you can clean up the scoring/texture on the journals. I'd bet someone with more experience would say to grab a new one but I'm not really sure.

Weird failure on the rod, I have no idea how that would happen. I'd think manufacturing defect, but again, I don't really know.

 

I'm not really sure, the bearing was completely gone, shredded in my oil pan. I guess that happening could have messed up the rod or the rod failing could have destroyed the bearing Idk... This was my first ever engine build so I could have messed something up but I just don't know. Trying to put together a list of everything it would take to get it back up and runnin

 

Damn dude, big bummer. Again, sorry to see that happened.

Was that crank unground? Most of the big leaguers on here have historically recommended not to use a crank that's been machined at all on high hp builds as taking even .010" off is enough to remove any of the hardened coating on the rod journals... but don't quote me on that. There's a few threads on it here if you search for it.

I ran a crank with a .010" grind on my 270whp car with no issues until I spun a rod bearing due to oil starvation (my fault entirely). Rather than cutting it again and running a .020" grind on the journals, I just got a new crank and OEM bearings and never had a problem.

If it's an unground crank you might be able to get away with a .010" grind depending on what your machinist thinks, but I believe most of the sages on here will tell you a new crank is a better idea.

 

If it's not a track car, you'll be fine grinding .01" and running oversized bearings. I've done it a few times with success. I will say that every once in a while I've had new builds fail on a rod bearing, and it's only been on ground cranks, so ideally you find a good stock crank.

 

It was an unground crank, but mains were line bored so the main bearings were bigger... but that's not where my failure was. I'll keep my eyes open for a decent crank.