There's also this clause at the end of the rules. Not sure if that would take precedent over the dimensions that are mentioned previously in the rules. Seems like this would apply to the street ****, no?

 

I measured the endplates, from the end of the airfoil to the furthest point on the endplate you are looking at a little over 1". No more than 1.5". I'd say it's definitely legal, at least how mine is mounted right now.

 

I assumed manufacturer here meant Mazda, but re-reading it I think you're right. However, I don't know which part of the rule would take precedence between instructions and dimensions. I could ask the club and see what they say?

Sick! Thank you very much Nate.

 

Nothing too crazy has been happening with Scooter, but I did get the new front sway bar installed, softened the rear bar, and went for a few scoots.

The new tubular bar is 4lbs lighter than whatever eibach came out. That's nice. I installed it in the softest setting too. I haven't driven the car in absolute anger yet, but so far it feels pretty good and neutral on the all season street tires.







Also went for a night scoot with the fiancee. This was taken a 9:55pm, but the night mode on this phone is pretty cool!



I've been driving the car fairly reserved for whatever ungodly reason, and have been enjoying the minutia of the suspension, the elusive exhaust pop and ITB noises at part throttle pretty well.

 

Cat for the cat! Nice dude, I'm interested to see what happens with the sway bar situation when you get the car on track next. Did not expect such a substantial weight difference in the bars. I wasn't aware the Eibach bars weren't tubular.

Night mode on the newer phones is sweet. Some of the pictures I've captured made me feel like I was cheating haha.

 

Now that you've got some time/tuning with it, how are you liking the G4X compared to the MS3? It still seems like most people go for Megasquirt, but Link seems to be preferred in the larger (IE, not just Miata) tuning scene.

I'm thinking I'll upgrade from the Speeduino in the near future. Used Megasquirts are easy to find, but I think I'd need to go brand new for Link, so I'm curious to hear if the Link is worth the extra cost, or if I should just go with the tried and true.

 

I'm pretty sure he's going to say the Link is the more capable tuning tool (which it is).

I ran my BP on MS3, and switched to Link for my K swap. IMHO, Tuner Studio is a more intuitive interface, but that may just be because I started out with it. I like being able to print out the manual because I'm a little old school and not much of a computer guy. I'm still trying to get the Link interface figured out, though I am able to navigate, log, and make changes. The biggest drawback of Link for me is having all of the manual laid out as a 'help file' that you can only access on the computer, and much of the info is incomplete or not explained well. But that's coming from a 57 year old guy that is easily pissed off by computers... LOL

The biggest plus on the MS3 side is this forum. The knowledge base here is the best there is, and you can find the answer to almost anything with just some careful searching. Link has a good forum, but the answer men are on the other side of the planet, and it doesn't have the specific focus we do here on MT.net. That said there are a couple of really good Link users here that helped me a lot when getting my K swap running.

Finally, a shameless plug: I've got a brand new in box MS PnP Pro for a 99-00 in the classifieds...

 

I've downloaded the Link software and poked around, and I also find tuner studio a bit easier to navigate, but I've also done next to no research on how to use the Link software. When I was learning tuner studio I watched a bunch of video's, so I don't think that's really a fair comparison.

Trust me, I saw that post and almost reached out about the MS3 and I'll keep it in mind.

 

Thanks! And me too; Trackday couldn't be sooner. It's possible that Eibach has a tubular bar available, but this one isn't

It is mind blowing! It could see more than my eyes that night.

I love the Link G4X and wish I had done it sooner. I'm annoyingly picky with how my cars run. So with that in mind, the no-smoke short answer from me is this: G4X is more capable in every way, except in SD card datalogging and lack of MAF tuning. That's it. The Link has a bad case of overwriting all the internal logs instead of the last log, but it doesn't do it all the time, only after many engine starts. And no MAF tuning support. You can plug in a MAF, configure and datalog it, but it isn't supported as a Load source to the main fuel equation.

PnP Megasquirts have been available for the Miata for a VERY long time. It allowed us to do amazing things sooner. The community is more comfortable with it than Link and that's why you see them more. I keep writing long winded answers for why I chose it, but in reality you should compare both yourself and decide what you prefer. If you would like a crash course of the Link in an NB Miata (or PCLink in general) we could do a screenshare and I'll walk you through it. Curly and KORacing have been great resources for me as well.

Ha, you got me! Agreed that PCLink isn't the most intuitive software to get started with, but for me, PCLink makes more sense as a tuner tool. I still use MegalogViewer HD to tune the Link and even my Stealth's OEM ECU because the histograms and scatterplots are just too useful. I personally find the Help File to be great and one of the reasons I chose Link over Haltech. There are typos and a couple of mistakes, but overall I've found it more useful than the mega-manual as far understanding what each function does and having a crash course when needed. The forum and phone support from Link was also a big draw for me.

MT.net is simply one of the best forums I've been around for accurate information and quality entertainment. I've learned so much from this beautiful place <3 Love you all.

 

That's exactly the kind of info I was looking for. I'll probably end up trying to snag one on sale during the holidays or see if I can find one used. I swear they were $1250 earlier this year and now they've jumped to $1400, but I might be confusing the NA model with the NBs which is more expensive I think.

 

The NB ones are $200 more, I'm probably not supposed to advertise this, but even our vendor prices are $1060ish for 90-95, and $1210 for NB1 or NB2. I can't sell one to you for that price though. I googled promo codes recently when a coworker purchased one and didn't find any current ones, but it looks like they do black Friday and march madness sales for 10-15% off.

Edit: also, I recommend NBs getting one of Link's MAP sensors. Put it in the engine bay and use one of the many inputs pinned there so you don't have to run a vacuum line through your firewall and by your clutch pedal. So budget ~$120 for that.

 

Makes sense. I know Enjuku sells them and figured they might have some blanket black friday sales. I'll keep an eye out if I can wait that long.

@curly any benefit to using their MAP sensor if I already have the vacuum line running into the cabin for my current ECU? If/when I upgrade I'll likely take it as an opportunity to improve some of my current wiring/routing. I'll do some more research on my own as well.

 

I got mine on Black Friday, and including 1 CAN harness + 2 expansion connectors it came out to $1348 with tax and shipping. I paid marginally less for the MS3 when you account for the tunerstudio license.

@curly I didn't know you were a Link vendor! I'll keep it in mind.

 

My only thought is you're a zip tie away from pinching it, or if any damage occurs from rubbing, you won't know until you feel it in the way the car runs or looking at logs.

Feel free to ask away! I'll answer whatever I can. I have a coworker's NB2 DD we're finally switching from Hydra to Link, and a NA race car project that'll eventually get a Link. Can never have too many Links!

@redursidae brings up a good point @SimBa , don't forget you'll need 101-0198 CAN cable which has can hi/lo and power/ground on it for any displays or gauges, CAN isn't pinned out anywhere else on the Link. Download the software and go to the pinout for the NB2 ECU and you can see if you need an expansion harness to. There's two identical plugs on the NB1 and NB2 board, which are both nearly identical. One does 2 extra temps (on top of clt and IAT), a couple of digital on/off inputs, and ignition 3/4 for sequential spark. The other has all the I/Os to run E-throttle.

So if you plan on running e-throttle ever, get at least 1 harness. The biggest reason to get a second would probably be to log oil temp, but beyond some safety measures and logging purposes, you don't use it for anything. There's enough I/Os in the OE harness that a lot of people don't use anymore, like purge, VICS, EGR, etc, that most people except the above reasons don't need an expansion harness.

Now if you're reading this just to learn about Links and you have a 90-95 pre-OBD2, that PNP doesn't have a lot of I/Os, so I'd suggest at least one expansion harness, and it uses a different CAN cable, 101-0197.

/thread drift

 

Hola queridos amigos! Life has been crazy busy and Scooter hasn't been out of the garage in 3 weeks I think. I'm apparently getting married in 2 weeks? WTF. So before I lose all my freedom I will be doing a trackday this Saturday. I've been on an off working on this little mount for an Antigravity ATX-12-HD and finally printed it. I plan to drill and rivnut three holes in the battery tray area to bolt the bottom mount to, and then the two long bolts hold the battery from the top. The long bolts go into threaded inserts in the plastic. The bottom mount is a very tight fit and holds the battery really well even without the top. The whole thing with hardware is 3.4 pounds.









Another thread drift. A couple of weeks ago the Stealth arrived back to the mountains and I've spent some time addressing issues with it. The (new to me) Tein Flex-Z in this car are horrible and I should have known better back then. I can't wait to throw these Teins in the trash and get some Ohlins or Xidas if Emilio hears my plea.

The stock 9b turbos ran 10-12psi to make ~300awhp, but with the 15G billet turbos it's flowing more air at only 4psi ; I haven't gotten a good log to put in virtual dyno yet and I'm excited to see what it does at the 14psi target once I install the electronic boost controller. Supposedly the stock head bolts should hold until 18-20psi (over 500awhp on these) but it's a DSM so who knows. I would also like to put a Link ECU at some point because I've had more than one scare with a bad flash near bricking this ECU and/or causing odd behavior, plus DBW, dual widebands and safeties would be nice for how much $$$$ I've put into this. But it's back, and feels great to have boost in my life again

 

Yo, congrats on the upcoming wedding dude! I'm due for my wedding sometime next Summer. Let me know how much things change after the magic date

I'd have killed to get one of those Caffeinated Cat™ AntiGrav battery mounts if I still had the NA! Thing's sick man. I still can't believe how much of a punch these little batteries have in them. I'm running the same one in my car right now and had it in the NA too. Cold started my car on a 30* morning at the track no problem.

Also stoked you have the Stealth back. I know I say it every time you post about it, but the styling on that thing is so damn sick haha. 90's to the max! Hope to see some dyno results from that thing at some point.

 

I love it too! We should see if it will take out my gtx one of these days. I bet it will!

 

Haha thanks dudes. @Z_WAAAAAZ I don't think there would be any changes after the big date, but keep me in your prayers anyways .

The antigravity is very impressive and good to know you've had a good experience with it too. My friend has had no issues starting his NA in freezing temperatures with one of these so I went for it. The mount was fun to make, let's see how it holds up.

I'm glad you guys like the Stealth! @Fireindc I'm game to do a few Mexico runs once I get the kinks straightened out. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel, but it's a long tunnel hahaha

 

The battery tray is awesome! I've been contemplating something similar when my current battery goes out, so this is great inspiration.

 

Thanks SimBa. I plan to post the step file in thinginverse and printables once I feel comfortable that it works well. I’m also happy to print you one if you would like. I print them in the same PCCF (future Nylon-X) I did the trumpets with.