I can agree with you on that last one. I was actually considering doing this with a set of Magnecor KV85 Miata plugwires that are sitting in my garage, but I'll want to see how this comes out with the NGKs

 

I got a present today.

 

Went to the dragstrip for fun just to see what the car could do. I kept having trouble getting the shift from 3rd to 4th. I don't know if it was trouble finding the gate or synchro issues. I was told my trans fluid was not as thin as it could be for optimal shifting, but it works well for the road course. Even on my best run of the night, it was very notchy and didn't readily want to go into 4th. This was on old Hoosier SM6 road race tires I have been driving on the street because it is warm (74ish degrees at the track at 9pm) and seldom rains in Florida in the winter.

Overall, I had a fun time but wouldn't want to abuse my drivetrain like that again. Troy (Miata2fast) and my buddy Gary came down to offer some coaching to me. Troy rode with me and Gary brought his turbo 350z (425whp) to put in some runs. Kjrage from the local forum showed up in his Miata to hang out for the evening, too, but he didn't run his car.

On to the videos.


Lined up against Mustang of some sort with a big hood bulge:



Lined up against Mustang Cobra thingee:



No video of run three. It was a single lane pass with a missed shift to 4th and a 13.7 ET.


Fourth run had me lined up against Volvo S60R:


If I was a better driver or willing to launch a little harder (pussay) I'm sure it would be better.

 

How did Gary do in the Z?

 

It was like he was on ice with the ancient street tires he was using. His 60ft times were closer to 3 seconds than to 2 seconds. That and he has the rear suspension dropped down too low for looks and it bottoms out when the weight transfers rearward which makes it spin easier. And he's got too much rear camber because he's got it so low. He's too stubborn to fix the last two items.

 

So you were faster then I presume?

 

He was in the high 14s but had a 107-8ish mph I think. Troy saw his slips and I didn't.

 

Slips?

 

Maybe that's what I was doing wrong.
The slips are pictured at the end of each video but I will upload them to photobucket and get them up on the timeslips thread, too. It just hasn't happened yet.

 

In the cue to enter the track this morning at Miami-Homestead Speedway.

 

Sweet jesus

 

McLaren, Z/28, C7 Z06, SLS AMG, GTR's galore. Lots of the high dollar hardware is in the beginner group, too.

 

Ok, I haven't updated in a long while.

I installed the Skunk2 throttle body from Fab9. Nice piece of equipment. Using blue silicone couplers because Braineack hates them.

 

FD alternator is a direct bolt in for the NA8 alternator and will generate 100 amps to the NA8's 70 amps.

The only real differences are the long bolt in the bottom that comes from the rear on the NA8 needs to come in from the front on the FD alternator because the threaded section is in the rear. The other difference is the the FD has a 5 rib pulley. I am simply using the back 4 grooves. I could swap the pulley but saw no need to bother.

It works. It works fine. There are no problems with wack of power at idle as there were previously.

 

What prompted the FD alternator install, were your subs and neons sucking too much juice for the stocker? Did you see any obvious gains from the throttle body?

I'd missed your Bradenton trip, I'm planning to make a trip out there sometime this winter.

 

There were no notable gains with the Skunk2. I don't think the stock throttle body was a point of restriction.

Too much bigass Spal fan and a tired stock alternator were contributing factors. I would love a radio if hearing the car wasn't important. I like hearing what the car is telling me. And my neon says "Liquor Beer and Wine".

 

you're telling me that the fd alternator bolts right in and its easier to bolt in because you dont have to shuv your hand between the jaws of a shark to get to? Grr wish i had known this 2 months ago. I just swapped my alternator.

 

And the intake brace isn't in the way when the bolt comes from the front. And 30 more amps on tap if you need them.

 

Are you able to compensate for the SPAL better now with the FD alt? I bought a 14amp H.O. alt on when I had my 14" SPAL but that thing would still bog the car down when it turned on.

 

It does a much better job, yes. 16 inch Spal here.