The eggcrate foam is a great idea for lazy, push to fit, self sealing, ducting. I may be copying that.

 

This oil cooler location has always confused me. Sorry for the dumb question but where exactly does the air go once its through the cooler? How exactly is this thing getting airflow? Am I missing something because I have an NB?

 

The air coming up through the cooler goes rearward beneath the horizontal plastic filler plate, around the hood latch mechanism area, and into the radiator. I'm not sure how different the NB is in that area. When the radiator fan is running I can reach into the bumper mouth, through the space between the top of the intercooler and the horizontal frame brace and back over the frame brace to the topside of the oil cooler. With my hand there I can feel the warm air being drawn upward through that oil cooler and then rearward to the radiator. Laying on the ground you can see upward through the bumper mouth to the oil cooler. There is about an inch of distance at the front edge of the cooler between it and the bottom side of the bumper cover.

The trick to getting the best cooling is really to keep the air coming into the bumper mouth from going sideways to the fenderwell within the cavities created by the bumpercover's loose fittment against its supports. The foam is a simple solution that works well with all of the irregular angles.

The horizontal plastic filler plate can be seen in this pic. The bumper cover seals to it and it seals to the top of the radiator core support (with the aid of some duct sealing foil tape.

 

I think I'm picking up what you are putting down. I'll have the nose off the car sometime in the coming month so I'll check it out, thanks for the explanation.

The only thing that concerns me about this location is that it turns a 5/10 mph bump in traffic or in a parking lot into a potential engine destruction event. I'm not sure how I feel about that.

 

5mph would bend the cooler or the aluminum brackets would bend and let it move rearward. 10mph would bend the radiator core support, both fenders, and the hood anyway.

 

I agree, anything that would damage it in the current configuration would likely damage it in a normal stack configuration.

 

any luck yet? still waiting for more gtx28 results so I can hopefully order mine!

 

There has to be a few dyno jets in Tampa.

 

There are. But I took the turbo and manifold off to make some changes.

I did take a datalog of a 1 to 1 gear pull on the flat interstate last week. Maybe someone can drop it into VD. I've not ever used it.

 

Send me the file. I got you.

 

Datalog attached.

 

O2 numbers are weird. Funny, the TS AFR gauge on the laptop cluster was reading normal numbers and so was the XD-16 gauge face.

235kpa is about 19.5 psi.
230kpa is about 18.8 psi.
225kpa is about 18.0 psi.

What's up with the gammae?

It looks like I was still in warm up even after driving a few hours at that point.

 

Thanks to Ryan G for asking me for all of the details and sending the virtual dyno sheet to me. Here it is.

 

That looks pretty solid! So shift points in the 5.5k-6k range to maximize torquey pulls?

I'm going to try to adapt that Subaru vent mod to my NB1 as well. I'll see if any of my subie friends have some sitting around. Need to figure out where to mount it there so rain won't have any negative effect if the car is sitting.

 

I usually shift between 6800 and 7100 on the track and it drops me to 5200-5500 ish IIRC.


So this dyno pull is about 3psi more and with more advanced timing than the 262hp 252tq pull I did on the dyno at Daytona. Sounds about right.

Equipped as follows- FM iron log manifold, GTX2867R, 3" downpipe with sharp dogleg, full 3" exhaust with HKS Hi-Power muffler, 2" hotside intercooler piping, ebay intercooler of unknown dimensions, 2.5" coldside piping, Skunk2 throttle body, DW700 injectors, MS1, 949 Supertech 8.4cr pistons, Brian Crower forged rods, Supertech light double springs, titanium retainers, '94 head ported by Miata2fast.

Places to improve- 99-up head, tubular manifold, better downpipe, better intercooler, cams, water/meth injection.

Things I have but not installed- Devil's Own water injection kit, Artech is building a tubular manifold and downpipe as we speak.

 

What are the dimensions of your oil cooler if you don't mind. I want to do this but I think my oil cooler is too big.

 

14in left to right. It is 15 rows tall but I don't recall the inches of height. I can measure when I get home.

 

I have the Trackspeed 25 row. It is 12 inches left to right which is not a problem but it is 8 inches deep plus 3 inches of 90 fitting. Doesn't look like it will fit the way you have it which is a bummer because I like that set up a lot. I won't know for sure until I get the bumper off. If anything I am sure I could trade someone for a smaller 10 or 16 row.

 

Well, there are multiple layers/levels to the inside portion of the bumper support. If my cooler had many more rows I would angle the frontmost nose end downward and seal it to the next level of plastic rather than the top one where I did. And that would leave the rear portion where the brackets and hoses are connected unchanged, aside from a different angle on the mounting bracket. If you lay down in front of the car and reach in the bumper mouth to feel the back side of the bumper support, I think you'll understand where I'm talking about. The air will pass upward through that area and go through the cooler at most any angle if it is sealed properly.

I also own an RX7 oil cooler and it would fit in the same location with different trimming. I debated which would be more efficient and decided the Setrab had many more fins per inch. The RX7 was longer and would require more cut length and I could always go to it later if desired.

 

Well, I can't walk straight or drive because of vertigo today, but I can fall on the ground with a pair of wrenches and put the new oil cooler hoses on my car. The fittings the hydraulic shop used are heavy and large diameter, probably a lot heavier than a real racing team would use, but the large inside diameter and gentle radius bends look good to me. And they fit very well.