When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Sounds like it's going to be a rather full event. October at VIR is usually a packed event anyway, so with the addition of Hyperfest in the (relatively) cooler month I imagine it's going to be quite chaotic.
@Z33Taxi have you registered already? My buddy in HPDE 2 got wait listed a couple weeks ago.
Sounds like it's going to be a rather full event. October at VIR is usually a packed event anyway, so with the addition of Hyperfest in the (relatively) cooler month I imagine it's going to be quite chaotic.
@Z33Taxi have you registered already? My buddy in HPDE 2 got wait listed a couple weeks ago.
I registered months ago. I'm all set. Pissed that I didn't think of camping tickets, or RV tickets. I forgot how big of an event it is, so looks like I'll be tent camping with the dregs
I registered months ago. I'm all set. Pissed that I didn't think of camping tickets, or RV tickets. I forgot how big of an event it is, so looks like I'll be tent camping with the dregs
If I remember correctly you'll get email instructions on how to pay for camping eventually. Hyperfest is so different from every other NASA/VIR event as far as registration instructions and such that I can't remember exactly, but I feel like I got an emailed code to put in for camping tickets.
Got the car dyno'd today - 133 hp/119 tq. It actually came in higher than I was expecting which means I will need to ballast up some for TT6. Stock ECU, stock intake, Racing Beat header, midpipe, and race muffler, and 14* timing advance. Will run at 2400 lbs with max average horsepower of 131.
It does seem to make a good starting point for a jump to TT5 eventually though as I imagine an aftermarket ECU with good tune, legit intake/squaretop, and BP5A cam will get me to the 145-150 range. This would be at 2400 lbs with wing, air dam, splitter, and big brakes. Tempting to look into getting the aero stuff sooner and I can always continue to class up with potential K-swap later.
For now though, I think it'll be TT6 for the remainder of this year (only two events left) and all of next year. I need to continue to get faster and maintain consistency and I have some fresh Toyo RRs to try out. Next year I'd like to visit some tracks outside the region as well. If I can really nail down my driving I may look into comp school for ST6 if that's where the car count is as the car is already prepped for w2w and ready to go.
Almost to the perfect power level. Keep in mind you get another 0.1 mod factor weight credit for running over 2450lbs.
I would stay in TT6 and prioritize getting set up for race group (way more fun) and then after you get some races under your belt, if and only if there are more entries in ST5 then I would build the car up to that. But for ST5 you would be at the point of either likely needing to build a fresh BP to make that power or just say screw it and use that money towards the K swap instead.
Almost to the perfect power level. Keep in mind you get another 0.1 mod factor weight credit for running over 2450lbs.
I would stay in TT6 and prioritize getting set up for race group (way more fun) and then after you get some races under your belt, if and only if there are more entries in ST5 then I would build the car up to that. But for ST5 you would be at the point of either likely needing to build a fresh BP to make that power or just say screw it and use that money towards the K swap instead.
I agree. The more I have thought about it, I think the best course of action is to just stay in 6 and get some time in TT to continue driver mod and trying out some new tracks. The car is prepped for ST, so ST6 is just one Comp School away. Then I can just continue to run the BP until it falls apart while learning racecraft and continuing to bolster the reliability of the chassis while saving money toward eventual K-swap down the line when I have the time and money to fully commit to big wing, big brakes, and bigger power.
Honestly, bolt on/stock bottom end BP on oem brakes at ~150whp and 2250lbs with aero is super competitive in 5.
Other than removing my half cut/gutted dash which probably still weighs about half of a full dash, where else can I remove weight to get so light? With passenger seat (Sparco Pro2000) still in the car I'm right at 2330 lbs with a few gallons more fuel than I probably need, but will be swapping that out for CoolSuit cooler and would still like to add a fire system, so maybe a wash regarding weight. I know the dash is the easy answer, but are there any other relatively low hanging fruit that I might have missed? I already have the doors fully gutted and lightweight hardtop. I know my cage is overbuilt and is adding a bit of weight, but nothing to do about that now. Overall I'm very happy at 2300 lbs for now, but have wanted to try to drop another 50 lbs somewhere if I can. I don't think 150whp is but so far out of reach, and the car is going to get a full aero package eventually anyway, so depending on car count a dip into 5 might prove to be move fun than racing ghosts in 6.
Even though I think K-swap is still very much the long term answer, it would be a relatively small investment to get up to ST/TT5 power levels. Depending on which ECU route I go, that cost could roll over into the K-swap as well (aka Haltech Elite). I figure most BP stuff that I would need for a power bump (flattop, ECU/tune, delete MAF, BP5A cam) would be easily re-sellable enough, along with my Racing Beat exhaust.
I needed about 40bs of ballast to be 2250 last weekend. I am 190 suited up. No cool suit but plastic windshield, no headlights and a CCP top. Steel doors with crash beams still.
I needed about 40bs of ballast to be 2250 last weekend. I am 190 suited up. No cool suit but plastic windshield, no headlights and a CCP top. Steel doors with crash beams still.
Jeez. Well, certainly gives me a goal to shoot for! I may be surprised and lose a few pounds from swapping the seat for the coolsuit cooler. I'm determined to put that thing to good use, Mid-Atlantic summers are brutal with my relatively thick suit.
Remove dash. 10lbs
Lexan windshield 5lbs
Skin and pin trunk lid, so remove all hinges, hardware, latches etc. 10lbs
Delete power steering if you haven't already (I can't recall if you had or not off the top of my head)
Remove passenger seat, belts, seat mount. 15lbs
Remove headlights and get bolt in blanks. 5lbs
Smaller battery (e.g. AntiGravity) 10lbs
If you doors still feel strong, cut more out of them. 5lbs
Replace front and rear crash structures with tubular ones. 10lbs
Rear bumper cut (this is starting to get to point of diminishing returns down here at the bottom of the list) 1lbs
There you go, quick guess is around 60lbs still on the table not including power steering since that is probably already deleted.
If you do all that stuff and still ballast UP to 2450 it's going to be a performance advantage to have that weight low and in the center of the car anyways.
Picked up 140 lbs of steel plate yesterday for mounting in the passenger seat area. I should be able to manage weight anywhere between 2300 and 2450 lbs now depending on a few different configurations of accessories, ballast, and fuel.
Also got notified yesterday that my new truck is finally scheduled for production. Hoping it will be delivered by Black Friday, so next year it will be put to good use and I'll be expanding to some tracks outside the region.
Got stickered up for Hyperfest, just waiting on some color matched paint for my hood and front bumper and then I can add the decals up front too.
08-26-2021, 08:47 AM
0
