Erat

iTrader: (5)

Here are two more i forgot to add from my phone.

What the reroute looked like before i hacked up the radiator.



I made an oil return. -10an because i don't **** around.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

This thing is fast.

I don't know how to explain it. 10psi, 70% throttle feels like it wants to spin the tires over.
Boost is at like 5psi at 2200rpm in high gear.

Or i just haven't driven my car in a while...




Only leak is at the inline t-stat housing. Letting it cool now, gonna see if i can't mend it while it's on the car. It's just so massive i can't get any wrenches in there to turn it.

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

Looks awesome. So is this initial testing while the motor is still breaking in? I'd bet compression will go up as you put miles on it anyways.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Yup. You could call it that. Breaking it in. I also have to break in this new clutch. So i just have it set at wastegate pressure 10psi.
Still not stopping me from giving it some boost.
New motor mounts give me the vibrations.


Not sure why the chart starts at almost 4000rpm, i started the log around 3000. But damn, dat torque curve.

AFR's started to get into 12:1 so i let off. Plus i really don't want to spin it up as high as it can go.

Made more power on wastegate with easy tune, and driving easy than the old engine on 13psi.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Fixed the coolant leak at the inline t-stat housing. Pipe wrench was all it took really... Just torqued the bitch down.

Now my heater core lines are leaking, or one of them is at least. On the heater core. But it's my own fault for using OEM clamps... Seems to be using more coolant than is dripping out though... Or it's just working the air bubbles out. We'll find out. Probably also because i'm using a 20psi cap...

Car is still doing really well.
50k mile trans shifts funny. Could be because of the poly engine mounts. I noticed a lot more "bounce" when tipping into throttle, and letting off throttle. I'm also feeling much more vibrations and stuff i couldn't feel before i had the poly mounts on... It's a weird feeling. Not sure i like it, or it just takes some getting used to.
Oil pressure at idle is 3/4 the way to 30psi... Maybe it's the oil i'm using for break in. Not sure how long i'm going to use this oil before i change it out for what i'm normally going to use.
I will say though that i NEED ducting. Going to home depot tomorrow to get some supplies. I also may wire both fans to come on when it gets up to temp instead of just the one.

Whooh, that was a lot of words. Now to make up for with with some ear candy.

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

Pretty cool dude. Why the high idle on both cars? Were they still cold?

flounder

Hows that new clutch feel? I think I can finally find the time to install mine on friday.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Yup, just started both of them within seconds of starting the video.

Awesome. PP is much heavier. But engagement is just about as smooth. I'm guessing this translates into being able to really launch the car and shift gears hard with much power. While still being able to drive it daily.

My clutch fluid is due for a change, so i'm sure that's not helping pedal feel. I also have the stainless braided clutch line. I highly recommend it as the stock rubber one probably won't like the pressures.

We'll see after it's broken in, and my left leg gains some muscle.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

I think i fixed the coolant leak issue. Parked it over cardboard and didn't see any dribbles.

Added my ducting. This thing needs all the ducting it can get.
This 5 speed is notchey...
I think i'm starting to not like poly mounts. But i know i need them.

So i need some advice.

I'm still overheating, or getting hotter than i'd like. Even with the reroute.
The only thing i'm short of doing is putting that aluminum "heat tape" stuff around all the itty bitty cracks on my ducting. Not sure if that stuff will even stay in place with the velocity of air coming through there.
Other than that option, i figure i have 2 other options. I could do one or both.

1. Take fan shrouding off.
2. Wire both fans to run instead of the one

I don't have the A/C belt on right now, but when i push the A/C button it seems to do "okay", bounces around 195-203, but i'm pretty sure my thermostat was lower than that. 180F i believe.
I suppose i could do one, see how it does, and if no change, then do the other.

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

Are you sure you've 100% burped the car? What mix are you running coolant/antifreeze? You could add some Redline water-wetter to the mix, that should help some.

Wiring both of the fans to come on is cheap and easy, so try that first. How are the fans shrouded? I've seen some shrouds that look far too invasive on airflow at high speeds, i just bolted the fans onto the radiator using little brackets with no shrouds, like so:


That tape stuff would probably work well, but try to find the thicker stuff made for holding up insulation, like this ****:
Silver Reflective Tape : Silver Insulation Tape, Reflective Foil Tape

I've used that before and it's way thicker and stronger than the normal stove pipe reflective tape you are talking about. It surely would hold up for quite a while before you had to re-apply.

Edit: also a upper radiator support cooling plate like the one I have seems to help, got min from BEGI. Rad is not bolted down in the above pic, it sits really flush to the cooling plate when fully assembled.

Edit 2: also, what fluid are you using in your 5 speed? Switching to the Motorcraft fluid that everyone is using helped me a ton. Smooth like buttah now and I hardly ever mis-shift.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Going to burp it again. I have what seems to be the same foil tape as that. Also going to wire both fans to come on. But really, at highway speeds, no fans should have to come on. There should be plenty of air moving through at 70mph, shroud or not. I'd say the shroud only covers up 15% of the radiator. I ordered a top cooling plate too. I have the stock one but i don't think it's very good.
Same fluid i used in my last 5 speed. So i dunno.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

I've gotta turn the second fan on. While idling it just sits around 200F with just the one fan on. I also put heat tape on every single little crack between the bumper and the radiator. Any air that gets in, should not get out.
Also installed my turbo heat shield. Probably needed to be done sooner really.

Ugh, the problems with having A/C on a race car...

Erat

iTrader: (5)

I've got definite piston slap if i get to drive the car before the pistons fully expand. Right between 3000 and 4000rpm.

I'm just chalking it up to one of the downsides to having a fully forged engine. It goes away before i even make it a mile down the road. But i'll just have to idle it a bit longer to warm up.

Hate this cooling system. But the turbo heat shield seemed to help a lot.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Just gonna leave this here.



Car is doing good. Almost 350 miles on it now. I should not be doing to many pulls with this clutch, but at wastegate pressure i'm sure it's fine. The blue car is taking me down, that's how i know it's slow. Could probably use a better tune too.
After another 50-100 miles i'll oil change, raise rev limiter, add boost controller then find the limit of my transmission. Going to try and get a dyno tune, as i can't tune for ****. The blue car, and mine both need it.

Or after seeing Soviets plot, i'll just give up and cry myself to sleep every night.

In other good news, the Miata(and me) will have a new home soon. Whooh!




Closed the other day. Plan is to move in by the end of the month. But i leave for the tail of the dragon October 2nd. lol.

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

Looks nice man, it's SO nice to have a garage attached to your home. Mine is ****** 10 minutes away and can be somewhat annoying.

Sounds like the classic case of "NEEDS MOAR BOOST".

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

Congrats man!! Place looks good and so does the car!

Erat

iTrader: (5)

This oil psi look a little low to anyone else? BE street pump. Fully up to temp, idle.


I'm hoping it's just an oil issue, i'm going to swap out this brake in oil. It's been 350 miles, i'm sure that's enough. It is 10w30. But my friend said it's such a new clean engine, there are no restrictions. It also is normally around 30, and will get up to 60 when cold or in boost.

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

Is that fully heated up, as in - you've done a few back to back pulls and came to an idle? I know on 10w/30 syn mine would idle much lower than that after I did a few hard wot pulls and let it idle. I switched to rotell t6 as per recommended by this forum, and the 5w40 kicks ***. I got a good 10psi of pressure at hot idle.

I'd say it's fine, just switch to rotella t6 after breakin and i bet you will gain a few psi of hot pressure.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Heated up as in i was just driving around, no pulls. But you know what, i'm going to start using t6. Not because everyone is always ranting and raving about it, but because of it's nice price. I've never had any problems with previous oils i've ever used. I also think the bump up to 5w40 will help.

I went ahead and installed my cooling plate. Nothing special here, maybe it will help, maybe it wont. It adds a little bit of bling under the hood, and that's nice.

FWIW Heat shielding on the turbo and air box is WIN WIN WIN. IAT's stay at or hardly above ambient pretty much always now, unless i do a multiple gear pull, or back to back pulls. Even the brake master cup is COOL to the touch. I can drive, and give it all kinds of boost, reach under the hood and rest my hand on it without issue at all.

I got the pictures from my builder. Grab some tissue.

miata2fast

iTrader: (2)

Who did the cylinder head work?