Paul, I think you have a bit more experience at the drag strip. Those ETs start dropping real quick once you have some practice time under your belt.

 

@Erat 30mph roll and 50mph roll. Might be at Woodward tonight

But that was my first time at the track ever lol.

 

I has a sad for you now. :(
Actually, more sad for me. Now you're going built, i have my work cut out for me this winter. lol. Though i don't really have any desire to add more power.

The run i got spanked by a Neon.

 

I'm still playing catch-up; you've already been built for a while now. But tbh, once I have a built motor I'm not planning to stick with a little 2560 lol

Any videos from the track?

 

Got my gauges.

This is something i wanted to do for a long time now. Plus i had revlimiter custom make mine a little bit to better fit my needs.
Now i already have a feeling that MT may think these are complete rice but i like them. Plus they serve WAY more functional over my old stock gauges... Burying the tach at the drag strip and waiting for the check engine "shift light" to pop up is slightly worrying.

9000rpm tach with 8250 redline, 160mph speedometer, the temperature gauge reads more correctly now. I also installed new LED backing lights to really brighten them up at night. I even put LED's in the turn signals, which was probably overkill.

New.

Old.

Those smudges were always there, i've tried everything to take them off.

I think i like it.


The good part is this was actually extremely easy to do.
The bad part is, i completely shattered my gauge hood. I guess 20 years of baking in the sun didn't do it any good. :(

 

I like it.

Do Miatas with unbroken gauge hoods exist?

 

Yup. My 1.8 dash in my garage attic is unbroken. The 1.6 dash I pulled from the junk yard to put in the racecar is also unbroken. My dad's 97's stock one is also unbroken. I know you were kidding.

 

I freaking love it.

 

Three unbroken hood gauges?? You are like hood rich.

 

I know someone who needs to buy one.

 

Did a little wimpy slow 5th gear pull at 12psi this morning.
Just to get a good video of the gauges in action.

 

Another video, straight out of Mexico. I almost hooked up in second here. 16psi in this video.


Now i've got a question.
Have a look at my oil pressure gauge on the 4th gear pull. Notice it kinda jump around a little funny there when i stab it? What is this, and should i be worried?

I did replicate it off camera a few times. It seems to only do it when i'm at or above 4000rpm and stab the throttle.

 

first off, props for the speedo vids. I love watching speedo vids.
second, I like how clear and easy to read the gauges you got are.
third, the oil pressure bouncing could be knock, or oil pressure valve funkiness, or just random nothingness. (others have reported this before, and I have yet to see a clear/definitive explanation posted afterwards)

 

Thanks!

I'm going to go back and look at a few datalogs. Perhaps i need to tune my AE a little more. I know it was going slightly lean for a split second, i thought i had it tuned out.

 

So over last weekend and driving my car kinda hard i noticed a small smell of oil every once in a while.

After a little investigating i found i had oil on the shelf under the brake booster / heater core area. It was running down my wideband wire and dripping onto the exhaust.

My questions are, where the hell did this oil come from and how did it get there? There are no major visible signs of oil exiting the engine anywhere that i can see (BP's are pretty leaky so there is slight oil dampness around valve cover area). Oil feed on turbo and block was tight. Brake booster and master seem dry from what i can tell.

Is it possible that at 16psi and 8000rpm i'm getting having oil evacuate my engine somehow?

 

So in an interest in finding a solution to my wiggly oil pressure gauge. How much timing should i REALLY be running. No more ***** footing around with this. Bryan said to low of timing could cause a raise in EGT's. I have no way of telling without a gauge.

9.5:1 CR, 93 pump gas (should i just say **** it and start using e85 already?)I'd really hate to retune my entire car as i do it solo and it's a pain in the ***.
Until i get the fuel system built and working spark solution i should never see over 220kpa.



In other news, my knock sensor is on the engine. Probably in the worst possible spot. It doesn't seem to be working at the moment.

 

Check the wire on the oil pressure sender. I'm assuming you have a "real" oil pressure gauge, anyways I fought and fought mine when i had a similar wiggle thinking it was knock that would not go away.. it ended up being a lose cable that broke where it connects to the spade that slips on the the oil pressure sender.

Check that first

Otherwise, if there is any doubt, just remove timing where its moving and see if the movement goes away. If it doesn't, it's probably a false positive.

 

This is a built engine correct? If so, I don't see anything wrong with that spark map. You could probably even bump up the top to rows to 10 or something

....and if you have consistent access to e85 and are not using it, you are CRAZY

 

So either it's getting worse, or i'm getting even more paranoid.

During my drive to work today with the top up i noticed a little rattle during a WOT run in 5th. The OPG would wiggle at the same time i heard this rattle... Would i be hearing knock?
I'm only running at like 10psi right now, so i don't get it. Going to try and datalog tomorrow.

I ordered an MS3... I think this MS2 sucks. Knock sensing doesn't work, EBC doesn't work, AC idle up doesn't work. The car's idle is so erratic it's just impossible to tune. It doesn't surge, AFR's are good, it just idles between 1000 and 2000 whatever it wants with no rhyme or reason.

I'm taking it to the strip one last time Wednesday. If it doesn't just grenade, i guess i'll throw parts at it over the winter.

 

definitely sounds like knock