Slowest turbo Miata ever
#741
Yep. The thing to be careful with corn is the fact that it will almost never show any symptoms of knock/det/danger so you can get away with some silly things. Many grenaded engines from simply too lean, too much timing, too much boost cause they just "kept going" without realizing they were past MBT halfway through
#742
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We're dialed right about in where it's perfect. This car is just a darling to drive, such an absolute sweetheart.
I know you boys like seeing this p0rn so i took woke up early and took a day trip to Mexico. (hate me for short shifting it later )
Other than the suspension being a little harsh and the minor(very minor) inconvenience of having to look for E85 when going out of my normal stomping grounds, this is what i want.
I don't think i'm doing much if any more performance related modifications to it. Even the 5 speed - 4.10 setup is fine for me.
I may save up and have the body restored in the future, we'll see.
I know you boys like seeing this p0rn so i took woke up early and took a day trip to Mexico. (hate me for short shifting it later )
Other than the suspension being a little harsh and the minor(very minor) inconvenience of having to look for E85 when going out of my normal stomping grounds, this is what i want.
I don't think i'm doing much if any more performance related modifications to it. Even the 5 speed - 4.10 setup is fine for me.
I may save up and have the body restored in the future, we'll see.
Last edited by Erat; 09-20-2015 at 07:16 PM.
#746
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Man, it's sad to make this post.
Winter is coming.
What is the deal with storing E85 in the tank all winter? Should i just do the normal "fill it up and leave it with maybe a little additive" procedure like i always do?
I may get a couple more good drives out of it this season and i don't want to play around with switching tunes if i don't have to.
Most internet research says to just leave it and it will be fine. They also say to start it about once a month and let it idle for 30 minutes or so. I've always strictly against that since idling an engine can create condensation in places you don't want it.(oil and fuel system)
Oh and before i go emailing Emilio, has anyone used Carbotech 1521 street pads in sub zero temperatures? The daily needs new brakes, i'm not sure the huge price difference is worth it.
Winter is coming.
What is the deal with storing E85 in the tank all winter? Should i just do the normal "fill it up and leave it with maybe a little additive" procedure like i always do?
I may get a couple more good drives out of it this season and i don't want to play around with switching tunes if i don't have to.
Most internet research says to just leave it and it will be fine. They also say to start it about once a month and let it idle for 30 minutes or so. I've always strictly against that since idling an engine can create condensation in places you don't want it.(oil and fuel system)
Oh and before i go emailing Emilio, has anyone used Carbotech 1521 street pads in sub zero temperatures? The daily needs new brakes, i'm not sure the huge price difference is worth it.
#747
Man, it's sad to make this post.
Winter is coming.
What is the deal with storing E85 in the tank all winter? Should i just do the normal "fill it up and leave it with maybe a little additive" procedure like i always do?
I may get a couple more good drives out of it this season and i don't want to play around with switching tunes if i don't have to.
Most internet research says to just leave it and it will be fine. They also say to start it about once a month and let it idle for 30 minutes or so. I've always strictly against that since idling an engine can create condensation in places you don't want it.(oil and fuel system)
Oh and before i go emailing Emilio, has anyone used Carbotech 1521 street pads in sub zero temperatures? The daily needs new brakes, i'm not sure the huge price difference is worth it.
Winter is coming.
What is the deal with storing E85 in the tank all winter? Should i just do the normal "fill it up and leave it with maybe a little additive" procedure like i always do?
I may get a couple more good drives out of it this season and i don't want to play around with switching tunes if i don't have to.
Most internet research says to just leave it and it will be fine. They also say to start it about once a month and let it idle for 30 minutes or so. I've always strictly against that since idling an engine can create condensation in places you don't want it.(oil and fuel system)
Oh and before i go emailing Emilio, has anyone used Carbotech 1521 street pads in sub zero temperatures? The daily needs new brakes, i'm not sure the huge price difference is worth it.
#748
Drain the e85 and put in gasoline. While everyone makes a much bigger deal about the corrosion issue than really needs to be, fact remains that E will eat aluminum parts if left stagnant on them for an extended period of time. Such as winter storage. The E85 powered FSAE car that was kicking around ended up having no fins left in its wally pump after sitting for 8 months with a tank full of E.
#750
for the love of god dont use that except to get the very last bit out of the tank. Pull one of the fuel lines off in the engine bay and lay that into the gas can and jumper the fuel pump.
#751
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AN fittings should make that easy. I'm way to afraid to crack a drain plug on a 20 year old Michigan car.
But i was kinda hoping to not do that.
The DW300 pump i have is compatible with ethanol, or so they say. All the other aluminum in my fuel system is anodized and E85 safe, including the injectors.
I did pull the plugs the other day, they all looked the same. Pretty good, if i must say so.
I also bought a borescope and i swear i bought the one you could take pictures with, but i guess not... Pistons looked, okay i guess. They did have some black specks on the center, maybe from the detonation i was having. Also a few had some black splotchy areas like they got wet with oil. Couldn't really get a good angle to see the walls. I'm not worried.
But i was kinda hoping to not do that.
The DW300 pump i have is compatible with ethanol, or so they say. All the other aluminum in my fuel system is anodized and E85 safe, including the injectors.
I did pull the plugs the other day, they all looked the same. Pretty good, if i must say so.
I also bought a borescope and i swear i bought the one you could take pictures with, but i guess not... Pistons looked, okay i guess. They did have some black specks on the center, maybe from the detonation i was having. Also a few had some black splotchy areas like they got wet with oil. Couldn't really get a good angle to see the walls. I'm not worried.
#756
Thats not how that works V. E likes moisture, it forms a homogeneous mixture with the E and raises the freezing point of the E, but you have to get like a 50/50 tank of water and e85 in order for it to actually freeze. Now with straight 93 you can get a layer of ice on the bottom of the tank if it sits for a while because there's no ethanol to absorb it. The water absorption is a problem though because you end up with a tank of shitty e85 that can cause the car to run like ****.
#757
I never said it freezes
I said it absorbs water
Injector Repair LLC: Ethanol can cause fuel injector clogging and fuel injection problems.
http://coolridesonline.net/news-blog...nes-againstit/
it takes like 5 seconds to swap the map and run pump gas. why not?
I said it absorbs water
Injector Repair LLC: Ethanol can cause fuel injector clogging and fuel injection problems.
http://coolridesonline.net/news-blog...nes-againstit/
it takes like 5 seconds to swap the map and run pump gas. why not?