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Slowest turbo Miata ever

Old Nov 9, 2016 | 04:36 PM
  #801  
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It's not even bad, the 01 is way worse.

Anyway, i can't get the diff apart. I'm guessing i had to take the nut off where the driveshaft is. Well, now that's impossible and i really don't care. Trust me when i tell you, it sounds like a glass jar of marbles when rolled around.
Old Nov 9, 2016 | 06:59 PM
  #802  
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When mine broke it was the best launch I had. The car just hooked up great but it let go just before I shifted to 2nd. I would never wheel hop in the burnout, only on the launch.
Old Nov 11, 2016 | 07:17 AM
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I feel like there was pretty minimal hop, but like I said this car has made a lot of passes. Could have just been it's time.

managed to get it apart here at work.

Old Nov 11, 2016 | 09:33 AM
  #804  
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You need a new one? I've got a 94 4.1 from Lars/Brainey I'm not using at the moment.
Old Nov 11, 2016 | 10:30 AM
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I have been texting someone about one already but he hasn't gotten me a shipping quote yet.
If he falls through I may have to.
Old Nov 11, 2016 | 10:34 AM
  #806  
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For sure, I just have it on CL right now because I don't want to ship it.

But if you need it I'll figure out a way. Just let me know
Old Nov 25, 2016 | 12:01 PM
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This just showed up to work Wednesday.
I'm heading out to the garage now to pull the 5 speed and install the 6 speed. Then this. I'll have to figure out what i'm doing with all the broken subframe bracing bolts too.

I'm so excited. 6 speed + 3.636 rear end should be an absolute riot. I may need to go bigger turbo.


Old Nov 25, 2016 | 04:54 PM
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Annnnd this is as far as i got today.
Managed to make a mess.
Once i got the trans off i smelt the clutch and it does not smell good after the rear end locking up. I hope it didn't die. I'll take the pressure plate off tomorrow morning, or maybe later tonight if i get a little motivation. I have to find my clutch tool first before i take it apart.

Old Nov 26, 2016 | 10:39 AM
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Well... I can't even really be mad. I had a feeling when the rear end locked up the clutch took the punishment.

Looks like i'm hitting up FM Monday morning for a new unit. I feel like this one would be fine, but i don't want to take the chance with better gearing and turning it up to 11.
The question is, do i just resurface the flywheel or cough up the dough for a lightened unit. Is anyone even using one? I always heard it wasn't worth the money and the heavier flywheel was better for turbo?



So, the springs in the disc spin around. I don't remember ever seeing that before. Also, the plastic piece in the center is all busted to hell, you can even see pieces missing. I don't think that's much of a big deal though.


FW even has some very small micro cracks in the surface. :(

Old Nov 26, 2016 | 11:10 AM
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I'm not an expert in metallurgy, but every OEM flywheel I've seen has similar micro-fissures. Armchair physicsts will note that a heavier flywheel maintains engine momentum between shifts, and racer b0yz clamor over rotational mass savings. Who knows which is better though.

Last edited by mazda/nissan; Nov 26, 2016 at 11:35 AM. Reason: F me right in da azhole
Old Nov 26, 2016 | 11:28 AM
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My local machine shop did mine for $50, everything is expensive around here.
The machinist said if it hasn't been turned before he could do it. I would at least see if a good local machine shop thinks they can resurface it or not.
That being said I run a light weight unit with my turbo and I am totally happy with it. Not a real FM flywheel though, a cheap exedy. It is what was in there.
Old Nov 27, 2016 | 12:30 PM
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NA, turbo, or gay boosted... you will never take my lightweight FW from me. Sub 9lbs or GTFO.
Old Nov 27, 2016 | 01:04 PM
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Lighter flywheels may possibly contribute to transmission gear breakage on high horsepower cars that are pushing the limits.
Old Dec 1, 2016 | 07:38 AM
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Having a difficult time removing the flywheel. Thankfully I got in on some good discounts for tools. I'm just going to have it resurfaced.
Ordered a new clutch.

From what I understand we are only able to use two starter bolts. Are we all just omitting the metal spacer as well?
Old Dec 1, 2016 | 08:20 AM
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Yeah only 2. The metal plate works fine. Or you could get an NB metal plate and NB starter and use all three.
Old Dec 1, 2016 | 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by hi_im_sean
NA, turbo, or gay boosted... you will never take my lightweight FW from me. Sub 9lbs or GTFO.
9lb aluminum flywheel & SuperMiata Damper 300hp built motor club here. My only complaint is the noises that my 6 speed makes on decel, its actually a bit unnerving.

Now if only I could find one of those Protege BP cranks that weights 10~12lbs less than the Miata BP crank and could afford a rebuild with a set of the Carrillo A beams that save ~120g per rod over the stockers...
Old Dec 1, 2016 | 12:50 PM
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Can't you just lighten the bp crank to the same effect
Old Dec 1, 2016 | 12:51 PM
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Sounds expensive.
Old Dec 1, 2016 | 05:13 PM
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These kinds of things cut into my beer budget.
Old Dec 6, 2016 | 06:21 PM
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I'm unsure what standard procedure is for this, but this worked.

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