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I gots your big giant buddy fork

My 99 has the 5sp/4.30 and I'm getting sick of it already. It was fine for NA but with 200+hp, 1st gear is useless and it runs out of gear at like 125mph.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Faeflora (Post 824513)

I gots your big giant buddy fork

I miss it dearly! We'll reunite soon, I'll come to pick up the hoist.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 18psi (Post 824509)

that's a fantastic deal on the torsen.
not sure how easily that wheel/sensor will adapt (at least not a plug in and go afair imo) but running a timing wheel setup
vs just cas will be a good improvement

As long as it physically fits I'm good. I can figure out the wiring and input mods needed for MS to work.

Quote:

Originally Posted by flounder (Post 824526)

My 99 has the 5sp/4.30 and I'm getting sick of it already. It was fine for NA but with 200+hp, 1st gear is useless and it runs out of gear at like 125mph.

I figured if it sucks that much I can bump the rev limiter to 7500, then it should hit same speeds as 5sp/4.1

4.3 vs 4.1 not a big enough difference to really matter imo, they both suck

oh how I wish I had 3.6 rp of glory:cry:

4.3 with a 5 speed is taller in every gear than 3.6 and 6 speed. I think I'll live.

Time for another update. I was choosing/buying parts for last 3 weeks or so and working on the car for a few days.

So first I bought a house. 2 car garage FTMFW
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1328750783

Then I jacked the ugly car and started removing the rear subframe.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1328750783

lol rust. ---- this ugly chassis!
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1328750783
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1328750783

RS-3s after 15k street miles, like 100 autocross runs and an hour of sissy driving on a track. At almost 3* rear camber, lol.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1328750783
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1328750783

Removing lower subframe is a pita, because the lower control arm bolts are a major pain. I spent a day just on those.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1328750783

Tomorrow I'm taking the block/piston/head to Fairfax Auto Parts machine shop. It was between this one and Tyson's Automotive. First one said 2 week lead time, second said 3-4 weeks. I want to drive the car in March, so I went with the first one.

Going for bore/hone and resurface both engine block and head. Budgeted $300, got quoted around $250. We'll see.

Your OEM rods are obviously out of spec since they are not bent.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Faeflora (Post 832793)

Your OEM rods are obviously out of spec since they are not bent.

I ran ALL OF IT :hustler:
wat am i doin rong?!

I cleaned up the engine block, head and pistons. Then on Thursday I dropped the whole deal off at the machine shop. Talked to the machinist a bit, apparently he worked on quite a few miata engines. Thanks MT for the machine shop recommendation.

Anyways, took apart all the rear suspension and front suspension half way. Also took apart the diff and started putting it back. Removed 14 bushings from rear suspension, 8 to go.

For anyone thinking of using the $5 tool, be warned that it bends control arms pretty easily. Especially the upper rear control arms (small ones).
The Harbor Freight ball joint press kit makes it A LOT easier. And you need it anyways to remove the 2 bushings from the rear knuckles. So buy it. Use a 20% off coupon, comes out to <$60.

Pictars.

fail
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1329193206
fail
http://s95367906.onlinehome.us/photo...d/DSC_9338.jpg
WIN!
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1329193206

Now the diff. First, taking it apart, I stripped the longest bolt that holds the housing to the actual diff. No worries, out came my prying fork and an angle grinder.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1329193617

Then I washed it in my dishwasher. Washing stuff in the dishwasher is ok so far. Just make sure you don't wash IRON parts because they will be covered with surface rust after steam drying. Alu is fine. Dishwasher is fine too.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1329193617

At this point the diff bushings were still in. I figured, damn, I don't have an easy way of getting them out. So today over lunch I went to a repair shop and asked if they could press the old bushings out. They basically bitched that it's too much work. I said ---- it, went to Advance Auto and bought a $25 4" puller. This, combined with the parts from the ball joint press from Harbor Freight = awesome tool for removing bushings. It's super easy.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1329193617
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1329193617
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1329193617
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1329193617
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1329193617
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1329193617
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1329193617
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1329193617
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1329193617

g g g goOOOD FRAKKIGN PUKE LORD i say replace control arm with freshie! you need new one that old one looks like it is gonna rustify pronto

Quote:

Originally Posted by Faeflora (Post 834868)

g g g goOOOD FRAKKIGN PUKE LORD i say replace control arm with freshie! you need new one that old one looks like it is gonna rustify pronto

Not really. I'll use the upper arms from my old 96, they are actually pretty good. I'll be painting all the control arms with POR15 (already arrived) so they should look like new.

Nice build. Subscribed

For the $5 you need heat for it to really work well. Without heat my rears were starting to flex. Applied, heat, came out like butter.

How hard do you think it would be to put the engine in the same method you removed it?

The difficulty with doing it this way is that you can't get the legs of the engine hoist underneath the subframe. I haven't decided how I'll do it, yet.

I might do subframe without control arms + engine.

I bought a cheap Borg Warner S246 off ebay. Really cheap. I'm not going to use it anytime soon (if ever?) but it's a cute little turbo.

Next to a my SR20 T25
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1329463380

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1329463380
Journal bearings, twin scroll, oil only, easy and cheap to rebuild, should last approximately forever, gigantic.
4.21" v-band outlet, lol

I can't PM you back since I don't have enough posts....but to paint my bay I used 4 cans of each:

Primer
Color
Clear

Came out amazing. I've rattle canned a lot of things, but the clear I used (Spraymax 2k) truly took this job to the next level. It just doesn't look like a rattle can job done in a tent...

Good score on the internals...I'm kinda wishing I would have jumped on that.

Bird

thanks man! I feel kinda bad about doing the exact same engine bay. I thought about using duplicolor chrome and I think that'll just be aids and fail.

internals were relatively cheap but once you add everything else ($120 rings, for once) it stats adding up. Built engines aint cheap :(

edit: damn, that clear coat is like $20 a can. 4x20 = $80 D: