Fix your trans so we can rent a dyno and toon it properly <3

An intake manifold would be worth 30whp.

200wtq at 3000rpm is nuts. That's basically 50-60wtq more than my VVT 2871R makes, with the same torque curve from 4000-5500. Goddamn, son.

my timing map looks nothing like any posted. dont give me credit for anything.


oh i see...yeah i should delete that one so it's never referenced again.


regardless, there's no reason you shouldnt be running 10* timing at idle.

Holy ---- has this car come a long way.

Ya that much advance will make it idle high but with no ISC it might e usful to keep from stalling durig daily driving situations.

Sav imagine this turbo with e85.

Ugh, mucho regret for not buying wittyworks efr setup. i have this sinking/failing feeling now, lol.

It really is impressive:drool:

but but but I thought timing maps I find on the internet are always 100% good? :party:

I took the boost part from your old map. sub-100kpa is my old map that I don't know where I got it from.

the faeflora adjust map looks good, but i think that advance at idle is a waste of gas and the boosted rows look a bit retarded considering a built motor. but what do i know...im stuck on a 1.6L block and only can hit 240rwhp.

Ya they are pretty retarded but considering he hits full boost at like 3000rpm there is a lot of time to burn a lot of fuel between ignition and TDC.

I was able to run more timing at full boost and lower rpm BUT i ended up with det at higher rpm. Tradeoffs compromises blech. Retard timig during spool can also theoretically help spool. In practice though, it is a big balancing act since more timing can help spool too. Also retard too much too often with too much power and u will start burning valves. My valves r prob burnt.

me and Fae gonna rent a dyno and tune our cars, amirite?

No. You are going to rent a dyno and tune your car. Fae is going to promise to be there and then break his car the night before.

I don't have to imagine - give me a month and I'll post the dyno plot. :giggle:

I'll get past his defenses :fawk:

You are going to fix his car?

I offered that already.

No, I shall guide him in his ways :brain:

So my fuel feed line came loose yesterday as I was cruising on the highway. Fun times were had, I shat many bricks because fuel was dripping onto relatively hot engine parts and alternator. Nothing ignited, though.

Food for thought:
- I'm using the 99 fuel rail. The feed fitting is meant to be used with the clip-style NB fuel hose connectors. I have just normal 5/16" hose on it with a clamp.
- Upgrading my fuel system a lot faster than I originally planned. I'm looking at roughly $500 to convert my entire fuel system to -6AN, E85 proof system, straight from the gas tank.
- Contemplating a kill switch. But I hear they suck and cause more problems than they solve. Also need to be replaced on regular basis.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1336771745
NA FPR on a NB fuel rail. Note the differences in barb fittings. p.s. the FRP is mounted wrong in the picture. needs to be flipped.

grind down the tab so you can slip a hose over it, clamp above... problem solved.

I have a spare 99 fuel rail. I'll play around it. Grinding it an option.

This is another option.
http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-13751-800-080.aspx
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1336772118

Ok i forgot ou wanted e85.

In that case i would do it like this.

Bigass souper high flow fuel pump of your choice
Weld shut factory fuel lid hard lines
Weld in -10 sized pipe in tank
Upgrade pump wiring (not that hard)
-10 fuel feed from pump
-6 return to tank
Inline e85 flex fuel sensor (do it now vs later ugh)
Upgrade fuel rail

When you run e85 you may be able to hit 400hp at the wheels. It will be ridiculous with that spool.